Det bypass By installing a 100 Ohm resistor in place of the det sensor. Im sure theres a tec article on it. Safety boost causes: -Engine is cold -Bad Engine Temperature sensor -Car is detonating -Bad detonation sensor Bypassing the DET elimininates the last two on the list, then you'll be looking at the ECU temp sensor circuit. Maybe the sensor is the wrong one! Sounds like you get full boost when cold and safety when warm thats the wrong way around! Check with multimeter should be * 2.1-2.9 kOhm at 20C (68F) * 0.68-1.0 kOhm at 50C (122F) * 0.30-0.33 kOhm at 80C (176F). Its the one on the left.
Can i use the sensor from my NA ?? The sensor on the right is for tem gauge yeh ? Thats wiked yeti thanks alot mate
I know, i'm agreeing. That post was to say you're right and i just figured it out fully myself You know I trust everything you say buddy
Theres better on offer than the cross...not as cheap tho. I can't afford to buy a woman...I own a zed remember.
Ok so I will bypass it for a day or something just to help rule out the prob. Can I put my NA temp sensor in the TT ??
Ok just put the NA sensor in went down the street and back boost stays at 6 PSI I gues next step is to bypass the DET sensor So I have my EBC in and when I have the igition set to acc when the ebc comes on you can hear it which I have noticed the more you turn the boost nob the more the ticking goes but turn it futher and the tiking dies down then goes to nuthing normal ?? So why only 5 PSI or the computer has ohter restrictors that do that even if the solinoids are disconnected ? And if my EBC is working correctly and I have dissconnected the saftry boost solinoids like in the pic I should be able to run what ever boost ay ?? And if my EBC is working correctly and I have dissconnected the saftry boost solinoids like in the pic I should be able to run what ever boost ay ??
went back to adzc today they found a few boost leaks ie split hoses but it still dusnt boost right as for the det sensor there is no error code comming from it and the safty boost solinoids are still dissconnected but it boosts up to 6 to 7 PSI. Do I have a dodgey EBC ?? thanks
No, you need to connect the safety boost solonoids...don't you read the replies? The solonoids divert the flow through the stock restrictors, disconnect them and it's an open run straight to the actuators which are 6/7psi.
Then you'll never boost past 7psi without a 3rd party controller. If you don't have an MBC or EBC then your mechanics an idiot. If you do then whoever set it up is an idiot.
lol I put it in here is the EBC I have and the thech I used to put it in. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=698645#poststop I connected them back up went for a flog wow 9PSI came back but 15min later it was gone agin Do I have a dodgey ebc ?? Thanks alot for all the help on this one guys I really appreciate it.
Take a photo of your solonoid setup on the actuator lines. Those instructions aren't very clear in my opinion. I think you may have a loose connection to the EBC solonoid. So when cold you've got 9psi, when hot power is lost to the solonoid and your stuck on 7psi. It's not being there to diagnose, but I think your loosing power when warm to the solonoid. Drive it to sydney and I'll fix it for ya
haha thanks. This problem has been around before I put the EBC in and before I put the FMIC in ect. Thanks alot mate.
NUP I have cranked it at small increments and opend it up full but still nothing you can here the solinoid clicking more/less when you adjust the nob. This problem was around before the EBC was fitted so it is possible that it is something else. Thanks
so have you ruled out completly that it may be you det sensor location? bypass it and see if you still have ur problems. if you dont have the problems when u bypass it then its either you are detonating. or ur det sensor is in the wrong location hence switching into safe mode when sensing some vibration.
