Agree with Renzed. Change the PTU and if that doesn't fix it replace the plug on the CAS. I had the same issue and thats what it was.
On a side note, how can one test the S2 PTU for failure? are the connectors / pin layout the same as the S1? Is the procedure the same as in the service manual? Reason is a mate has suspected PTU issues / failure on a S2 PTU.
The housing / mounting brackets are differant....... the actual pump itself is identicle :thumbup: I have a 2+2 pump in my 2seater, took 10 mins to swap the actual pump over ( and the usual couple of hours to reinstall it all ) Chad......... fit the series 2 PTU
sweet. two main big options here. ptu and fuel pump im guessing atm. first ill do the ptu. if problems still persist ill do the fuel pump. i will still endevour into changing the fuel pump soon anyhow as youve mentioned just from age/stress etc... ye i can hear the pump load when the ignition is turned on. if my fpcu was buggard would i still hear the load ? looks like im gonna have to .... QUESTION: i have my s2 ptu with the connectors on it and the wires just cut.... can i just cut my s1 connectors off and soilder the wires together ????? are the wires the same colours etc??? or are they different ????
You should be able to tell which wires go where by following the harness. So you can solder to refit. However, I used to have the S1-S2 harness but I got the connectors from a gb from Tom and crimped to eliminate the harness and the visual eyesore it brings to the engine bay.
yup ill be taking out the s1 connectors and accomodating the s2 connectors. can u confirm that this tech article is exactly what i need to do ? http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/251366
I think they are the same, but I can't confirm off the top of my head. Anyways. It's pretty straight forward. http://www.photodump.org/stored22/wiringdiag4-edit1.gif Follow the wiring diagram below. From memory when I did it, there was one harness that has 7 pins and one with 6. When you converted to S2, the 7pin harness became the 6 pin and the 6 pin became the 7 pin. I just stripped the wiring harness back to the point they joined in order to make it neat. Everything in the article you linked seems to be accurate, but again, just follow the wiring diagram and you'll be right.
A Z32 S2 PTU IS a Skyline R33 one. Chad, I have a box of Series one PTU's if you just want to swap it over
*********UPDATEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!*********** today i had about an hour to spare so i quickly thought id bypass the fpcu to see if the car ran fine. was gonna take it on a drive tonight after work to see how it goes... well now the car wont start. it just keeps cranking over and over... the fuel pump does not do the load up noise on ign?????????????????????? ...i took the bypass out and the car still wont start... just keeps cranking. still no load up noise from the fuel pump on ign either... just before i did the bypass i started the car and it started fine mind u... so have a blown a fuse or something? is there a fuse for load up for fuel pump? it doesnt do the load up noise.... have i blown the fuel pump? yes im still going to change the ptu to the s2 this weekend. just havnt had any time this week form work etc....but apart from that i mean it started just before i did the bypass and it kept starting fine before and when it broke down.
after speaking to a contact i think i have done the fuel pump fuse in the small fusebox near the booster. will have a look at that tonight when i get home from work. hopefully thats it and can take it for a drive tonight
Open it up and have a look for burnt out electronics. Worked for me There might be a test in the workshop manual, I've never looked for it.
Yeh there are. In EF & EC electrical components. elsewise follow: The first test : On either of the orange wires, use a voltmeter to check that voltage reaches 12v when you turn the ignition to the "ON" position and immediately drops to 0v. If this is not the case, you either have a blown fuse in the main fuse box or the fuel pump relay is bad. The second test: Place the voltmeter on the orange wire, with the white wire as ground and check the voltage. When the car is started there should be 12v for 30 seconds and drop to 3v-6v at idle over a short time. If the meter doesn't show 12v for the first 30 seconds immediately after start-up, then the unit is probably bad.
*********UPDATEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!*********** kool today i got another fuse in there as yes it was burnt. car started again with no bypass to the fpcu. drove fine etc...for some reason my car doesnt like the fpcu bypassed. i tried bypassing it again after the new fuse in there and it wouldnt start. took the bypass out and it starts sweet... yes i did ground the white wire and im sure of it. i even disconnected the plug from the fpcu as mentioned from someone while bypassing it. still didnt want to start while bypassed. so i just took the bypass out and put it back to normal. now i have obtained a working s1 ptu and a fpcu from a friend ....i have them sitting in my car. waiting for this bitch to break down. then i will change it over and see exactly if it is it.... apart from that i will do the diagnostic tests on the fpcu as mentioned and ptu tomorow as i got a voltmeter today... i also took the fpcu out today, and opened it up. didnt see any burnt connections or points etc. looks brand new inside. thus i still cleaned it with electrical cleaner etc and put it back in...
