Standard rebuild, standard tune. Built motor, head work, turbos etc I would get a tune to suit your motor and requirements.
The Mech. engineer (PhD) who services my bikes bought a new BMW F800R CPE about 4 months ago, shipped from Germany in a crate (0 kms, no fluids, etc). To run it in he took it to the old Brisbane international airport and flogged it up and down the unused runway going up to top speed and back down again. 5kms and the engine was run in (It helps that he knows everyone he needs to, wish I could get access to a runway ) Yes the motorcycle may require a different procedure or environment than a car but in this case if you do it right it doesn't take long at all. Prrof that it worked ran in properly was when he stripped the motor to have it bored to 900cc - all in perfect nick I just sold my ZX9R that he did a big bore on, it was a weapon in a straight line... He'll be running in my F800R when I get it eventually.
Back in the 60's & 70's I use to rebuild our race engines after every three race meetings which was 1 hour practice on Saturday TIMED for grid position and usely two sprint races at the Farm ore Oran Park ore Amaroo.on Sunday.To run a rebuilt engine in we would take the car to Oran Park [private practice] Put Shell M ore Castral R into the sump run the engine at around 2000 RPM.until the oil was up to temp.Turn it off and let the engine kool down [you must do that first to treat vegtable oil] then warm the engine again, then go out and run the car at full race speed for 10 laps. I never had a race engine let go.
I love this garbage. If you have ever seen footage of the factories, when the bikes come off the line they are wheeled onto a dyno and the operator flogs the living crap out of the bike rev limiting in every gear!!!!! And then we are suggested to pussy the engines around off the showroom floor.... what a load of garbage!!! Running anything in, other than a recon cam/followers setup is a waste of time. L8r E
Manufacturer = Please dont flog your motor, its no good for the warranty Z32 Owner = Blow the carbon out, occassionally with some boost but look after it Aus300zxforumite = Flog the crapper out of it, its good for it and besides, if theres something wrong it, you then get to fix it properly!
Recently I watched a video clip from Germany-AUDI..they mount the engine on a stand and let it run at 8000 RPM ! for 45 minutes..the thing just about gets red hot. While the engine runs at this speed all parameters are checkt and adjusted via computer. After that the engine gets installed with a new exhaust system etc. This is done on one of there new model 'super cars'..alu body and all. Impressive to watch..looks kind of brutal,sorry I cant recall the model.
my mechanic for the 240Z let me just go race it on brand new engine after about 2 sprint sessions the engine had run in just fine, when you turned it off the first time it just froze stopped but after the two sprints ran perfect
Running in large capacity, lower compression aircraft piston engines, the things were run as hard as they could. The first hour was full throttle max manifold pressure, the remaining time was varied every 10 mins between 75 and 85% power.
So whats the consensus here... ... theres way too many people reciting contradicting stories across far too many different platforms, from bikes to jet engines. Do we Aus300ZX boys run a freshly built forged / OEM VG30DETTs mild to hard for 3000-5000 Km? Changing the oil 5-8 times during that period using mineral oils? MoulaZX
Hey Emile I bought a Penrite Oil which does state 'run-in oil first 500-1000km only' $25 from supercrap. After this period I'm not sure if your meant to keep running a mineral oil, I thought after this you go over to which ever full synthetic oil you plan to use.
There's merit for running an engine hard, I think, as long as the oiling syatem is up to par and you have adequate filtering for any particles which wear in as the engine is run in. Now I am not a professional, but my guy instinct would be that the oil change frequency and quality of the oil filter would be more important than the type of oil- it might be nice to drop 4 lots of fully syn oil thru a new motor, but why pay 300% more for oil that lasts all of a few hundred kays in a motor? As for the 'best practice' my gut instinct also thinks that there are a lot of factors which come into to play that cannot just be generalized as a hard or soft run-in. What rings are you using emile? What metallurgy? What profile? What was the final hone on your cylinders like? All important factors. Piston rings act as a bearing and a seal, and they don't just seal by magic- gas pressures push the ring to seal, and piston design, with characteristics like ring groove clearances, ring gap, and gas ports all playing a role in rings sealing. Ring design can have many different contact faces with the cylinder wall- tapered, rounded, scraper type... and you can mix it up to get the optimum seal. The metallurgy of the ring will affect how it seals (and how resistant it is to detonation), as well as how it interacts with the freshly hones cylinder. From what I've read on this topic, the idea of engine run in is to get the rings to seal properly. This is achieved thru alternating periods of full throttle bursts (a few seconds), followed by zero throttle, back up to a coasting RPM. The idea here is that at high RPM, the combustion gas bypasses the ring, pushing it upwards and out to seal against the cylinder wall (keeping in mind here that gas pressure is what causes the seal, not the few grams of outward 'spring' force designed into the ring). The high gas pressure seals the ring. The following sequence of zero throttle causes a vacuum in the combustion space, which draws oil into the bores past the rings and assists cylinder wall cooling and prevents glazing. After this initial run-in, the idea is to have varied engine load and speeds (ie normal driving), with occasional heavy accelleration. If you want to empirically test your engine run-in, you can measure blow-by at the crankcase. you should be able to see an improvement in ring seal by a reduction in blow-by at the crankcase as the engine is run in. As this measurement is for all 6 cylinders, you can further narrow down your measurements by doing a leak-down test on each cylinder.
TRUST ME I'm a professional idiot I was more getting at the point that you want to make sure that any metal filings from the bores and rings wearing in are removed from the system ASAP. An oil filter will only get so much, and you'd use mineral oil for the first few changes. If you got money to burn, give it fully synthetic oil for 100km... but its poor economy in my eyes. Another thing I forgot to mention is that the difference between a performance motor and a under-warranty passenger car would probably affect how the vehicle is run in
Is this the oil you were talking about: http://www.penrit***l.com.au/products/specialty-automotive-products/running-in_oil? Have a read of the product information sheet, seems like they are wanting you to run the engine under "moderate loads and revs for 500km". Also states its for "older design rebuilt engines"... would our VG30DE(TT) fall under such a category? (I am leaning towards yes, but how does it fare with things like Mitch suggested, with different rings, honing techniques etc) Information sheet: http://www.penrit***l.com.au/pis_pdfs/0Running%20in%20oil%20JAN%202010.pdf MoulaZX
This is what I'm leaning towards believing, if the oil system is up to scratch, running it in hard shouldn't be an issue. Common sense reasoning only. Not claiming I have any secret knowledge. This is the only place where I may slightly disagree, I think mineral may be better at collecting any particulates during the breaking in period. Again, no secret knowledge, just a personal opinion and bits of knowledge I've been told over and over again from different mechanics over the years. I should have clarified. Most of here seem to be buying pistons off Coz and typically opt for the Wiseco set. And the honing technique is I guess a standard honing technique done by most mechanic shops. So I was after a somewhat generalized statement for engines using those components / techniques? No comment, all valid points. This is the conclusion I arrived to as well, hence my previous comment about my plan to run the engine in hard up till about 5K RPM occasionally and letting it decelerate in the same gear after letting go, during the first few thousand KM This is what I was also planning to do, so no real comment here. MoulaZX
Nothing to do with economy. The 'best' oil is not the most 'expensive' oil. Its about application. Use $1000 oil changed every 1km for your brake-in and the engine will have problems for its life. Use a run in oil so the rings and bore can 'wear itself into a seal. Too well lubed and it wont 'wear in and wont seal. 'Performance / non performance / lawn mower / tractor... Piston is a piston. Bore is a bore....
I'm actually saying its a waste to put a good oil thru an engine which is only going to have it dumped a few hundred km's later. So I think we're on the same page here, but my grammar let me down By mineral oil, you mean a single weight (viscosity), non synthetic oil? PS: the EO| filter pwned you. [TIS]
Ah, yea, then for the first bit I agree entirely and it would be silly to say otherwise. By Mineral oil I mean non-Synthetic oil or a mixed blend. Purely Mineral. And where did the EO| filter pwn me? MoulaZX
Once its been seated in the end correctly yes, but I think Mitch was getting at that crucial period when its being seated, the technique / oil used may need to vary from engine to engine. MoulaZX
Yes thats the one only $25 I might drop it after 500km and run it through again for another 500km. Get a magnetic sump plug if you don't already have one. and yes the EOl filter stuffed up your web links lol
