Ok I have a couple of questions 1: is it normal for the gearbox or clutch (not sure which it is) to make a sheering noise when Speed is low for the selected gear. 2: What causes squeeking brakes ? I know the obvious things hence why You're reading this. I have dog bones from CZP Brand new 324 Brembo drilled, slotted, vented Brand new pads put on today. Over the past two weeks iv fitted all sorts of pads soft/hard/new/used. Iv used full faced pads and split pads, today I had enough and took my car to an ABS specialist as I thought there was something I was missing to this simple task. They said everything was done correctly. Go figure Any help would be amaze-balls
First question yes. 2nd question is a mystery as some brakes will squeal like a stuck piglet and the same setup on a different car wont make a sound. For example my brakes are stock diameter, drilled and slotted rotors and Bendix Everyday pads and the right front squeals almost all the time on gentle braking but the left front does not. *shrugs* E
1. As above, yes, it becomes more pronounced as you remove weight from the crank (lightweight pulley, flywheel). 2. Are you talking about squealing as the breaks are doing their job or can you make them squeak by pumping the pedal while stopped? If squealing then the problem may be poor bedding, did you follow the manufacturers bedding procedure? Also some brands/pads are worse for it than others, Bendix ultimates are high temp pads and don't shut up until they're hot, no use if you're not at the track, I've used bendix CT with success before (180sx, 32GTR calipers). Did you put the anti-squeal shims on the new pads and clean them thoroughly?
Squealing pads is usually due to high frequency vibration between metals. As above do you have the shims on the back of the pads? You might need to put some anti squeal compound on them. I recently used the stuff from SuperCheap on the front callipers on my Jeep. These are a sliding calliper and the outer calliper body was actually sliding up and down on the outer pad. The SC stuff mostly fixed it, still squeals a little sometimes.
The Bendix CT is what I just had installed, Bendix say these pads have NO BEDDING requirements. Yes squealing as the brakes are working as they should. I didn't install them the shop did.
Never the less this is the procedure I tried to carry out. There was a bit of traffic around so did my best .
There's nothing wrong with Bendix CT pads for everyday driving, they will undoubtedly fall short if you intend to run around a race track with them. You didn't answer Shane's question on whether or not you have the OEM shims fitted between the pads & the caliper pistons. Also his suggestion concerning the anti squeal compound is worth a try. I had success using the CRC product.
I have the same problem, fitted some new front pads a couple of month ago which squealed like a stuck pig, tried the CRC squeal stop, no difference, machined the discs, no difference, fitted bendix pads, better but still squeal when they are hot and/or at low speed. Sorry I can't be of more help. Might take Rob's advice and try the QFM pads. Have you tried those Grayson?
Or in this case, also between the pads and the disc..........(They have metal / fibre based compounds as well) +1 Consider checking to make sure the disc run out / wheel play is within specs so your not chasing your tail if the noise is significant - even if unlikely - simply jack a wheel and feel for play.......to rule out wheel play. Some squeal is o.k. - slots will increase the vibration on the pads due to the high and low pressure system created when the pads travel over the slots. As long as you don't have vibration....and the squeal is not overly significant.... Do as shane said........ :zlove:
I'm sure SuperZ didn't mean this, but just for clarification, do not put any anti squeal compound between the pad and the rotor lol. If the pads don't have a clean flat surface on the rotor they can squeal, ie if the rotor is worn from different pads so the new pads don't sit flat. Edit: Yeah as WazTTed said, scored rotors was the term I was looking for Also maybe check all 4 pistons are operating. if a piston is stuck the drag might cause squeal? From the research I did when I had the problem with the Jeep, it can be just about anything, so I was very happy when the anti squeal compound actually worked in my instance.
Ok going to try answer everyone's questions The rotors are brand new so no defects on the face The pads are flat because they aren't even 24 hours old Yes the 3 other sets of pads where old and not flat. I'm not sure about the shims TBH. All the Pistons are working as they should. After watching YouTube clips I can see what you mean about putting a compound on the back of the pads to soak up the vibration. The squealing only started when I put these new rotors on I'm going to try the lube thing and don't worry I'm not going to put it between the pad and the disk haha :rofl:
When you apply the anti squeal compound to the rear of the brake pads, you'll be able to see if the shim kits are fitted. If you are unsure of what they look like, there's a picture in the Nissan Factory Service Manual, surprisingly located in the Brake Section.
Thanks I see it now. I actually never knew shims were a seperate thing, I always thought the plate that the pad is stuck to was the shim. So what is the purpose of a shim? They seem cheap enough !!!
Its a never ending source of amusement when I read an "XYZ" brand of daily pads are "crap" or "shite" or whatever else descriptions they are branded with by people who obviously have never used them... or dont sell them...... All of these people always have a line of anecdotes from mates of mates who had a sister whos boyfriends brothers cobber has some horror story to tell about them.... Bollocks. Some of the preposterous pad compounds guys use on road cars leave me in stitches of laughter. Some of these must have pads are close to Formula 1 pad compounds with next to zero cold braking and in daily use literally machine the disks away faster that the pads wear away due to the ridiculous amounts of clamp pressure needed to achieve even a moderate level of stopping power.....Knobs! Must be happy to replace disk rotors faster than pads!!!!! Then some of the conditions some guys state as necessary for pads are even more laughable! I scored myself a pair of pristine disks/hubs/bearings setups, calipers and pads for my race car some years back for literally, next to nothing as the dude who had them just banged on about the brake fade after repeated emergency stopping from 180kph and above in a turbocharged Volkswagen......... Like please, who seriously actually needs to or indeed does that in a road car and NEEDS repeated emergency stops from well above go-to-jail speeds???......... Wankers. Was my gain tho. The stuff i paid almost nothing for was almost new!!!!!!! Score! Im am a long time bike, superkart and car racer of over 40 years experience and I think I might have at least a partially educated idea of what constitutes reasonable brake pad performance. I use Bendix everydays (CT's?) in the NA Zed and they are excellent brake pads for all but the most ridiculous of braking applications as spoken about above. Those that know me know I have little fear of exploiting the very limits of adhesion and braking capabilities in my faster vehicles and even for the hottest runs in my Zed, the CT's work admirably. Easy pedal pressure and progressiveness, good wet and excellent cold brake operation. Only thing negative would be a slight reduction in braking power against pedal pressure right up in the emergency braking kind of situations. Especially at very low speeds...meh! Brakes smoking and stinking and I can still lock them up without undue pedal pressure. If i went to a circuit event in my Zed, Id fit something like Ultimates, which i used in the rear brakes of my Superkart or something like EBC "Greestuff" pads. In a TT, at a place like Symmons with a big stop corner and a bit of recovery time between stops, Id go to EBC yellows. Only problem with these heavy duty pads is often plenty of brake dust. I cant explain the one squealing brake tho. All shims are in place. Anyway, rant over!!! E
I gave up on Bendix when I replaced a set in a VP and the material fell off the steel backing in my hand.
Interesting...... .....however, your information in very vague. What series Bendix pads were they? Were they used in the application they were designed for? Were they new or old? Did the entire pad compound fall off or only a small section on the edge? Did the pad fail whilst it was installed or was only noticeable when it was removed?
