100 000Km Service | Leaking Water Pump | Timing Belt

aaaaahhhhh!!!!!!! Magic Spray!!!!

Inox is the only can you ever need, out of all the products on the market. Have been using this stuff for years, and absolutely swear by it. :thumbup:

 

Cam Sprockets and Valves?

Hi all,

I've managed to re-install the crank sprocket, cam sprockets and tighten them up - now that was difficult at 90ft/pd's.

My question is: On the intake cam passenger side (when using the long socket holding the cam sprocket from turning) it appeared the sprocket moved around when tightening, is this an issue. Only moved around by about 45degs. I moved it back by hand to the timing mark and it appeared fine - just spring tension to get it back. Also with the drivers side intake cam, it did release it's spring tension to the passenger side and rested with the mark pointing towards the passenger intake sprocket - similar thing moved it back by hand to the timing mark and seemed fine.

I test fitted the belt and all belt/sprocket marks lined up fine.

Just checking I'm going O.K. so far??

Thanks.

 

That's fine, no damage done. As long as the timing belt marks all line up when the belt is on your laughing.

 

Cam Sprockets & Spring Tension

Hi Chrispy,

THANKS! I was a little worried about that - like I'd forced the cam sprocket around too far and hit the valves or something stupid. I just wasn't sure how far the cam sprockets could rotate without causing damage. Man, there is a fair bit of spring tension on those cam sprockets too, especially when you are rotating by hand!

I tried to tension up the cam sprockets with the belt fitted, but that wasn't a success at all - drivers intake cam spun a notch on the belt. Scared the crap out of me so, as mentioned earlier used the long socket method and that was much easier.

 

Timing Off - Disaster Strikes, Crank rotated seperately!

O.K.

I was a little too keen to get the project finished and made a slight boo-boo!

I had installed the new timing belt and 'set' it - all fine. Tensioner was all good within tolerances after being left overnight. Installed C.A.S. and upper intake pipes to do the initial start up before installing all the water 'bits'. I checked all of the timing belt and nuts/bolts all up tight, yep, O.K. so far.

Now, this is when I started the motor up... It ran fine first pop, except for the crank sprocket has moved forward enough so it lost it's locating position over the key-way and the crank has rotated within the crank sprocket and now I believe the timing is off as the motor just slowly "concked" out as it was idling. No nasty clashing sounds and the motor seems to be able to be rotated without binding. The problem is I'm now not sure exactly what to do to get it back to correct timing state from where I am now. I guess I need to know what you do in the instance if a timing belt is broken??

Appreciate any assistance on this one.

 

PM Sent!

 

Pictures of Timing Belt Rubbing

Hi all,

With Chrispy's and K-zed's assistance (they haven't seen the photos just yet) I'm trying to determine what is going on here. I've posted up the following photos for all to see:

1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 

I have an issue trying to complete the install of the timing belt now. I have tensioned and 'set' it correctly, then rotated it two times as mentioned in the service manual - then I noticed the belt was moving off the front lip of the cam sprockets. So I rotated the engine by hand probably another six to seven times to see what was going to happen and now it's rubbing on the rear cover and the plunger housing. Will the belt do this normally if the engine is rotated by hand and if I start the engine to check all other things will the belt settle/bed in to the correct positon closer to the outer lip of the cam sprockets??

As you can see the belt seems to be lined up correctly on the crank sprocket and is not moving backward like it is on the idler pulleys and the cam sprockets...

Not sure on what to do with this tricky issue?

Any assistance greatfully accepted.

 

Gentley lever the belt towards the front of the pulleys while rotating slowly.

The belt should self centralize as the crank sprocket has a backing plate and front plate that locates the belt (your front plate sin't on in the pictures)

I would get the belt in the right postion by hand, disconect the fuel pump relay and crank it over a few times to see how it tracks. If all good give it a run.

 

Manipulating Timing Belt after installation

He there Chrispy,

Thanks mate, I'll give that a try and install the front crank belt pulley before I start or rotate the engine via mechanical means (starter motor).

cheers.

 

Just going by memory ( not a very good one) isnt there a " slinger" behind the crank sprocket that isnt there?(which would track the belt into the right position)

 

Agree with Chris

Should all be good unless something we can't see in pics is misaligned.

 

Just checked my pics and the slinger/washer or whatever you want to call it (belt guide?) behind the crank sprocket is missing and could / should be your problem

 

It's there, just very shinny.

 

Disagree with both K & crispy

 

Your eyes must be better than mine, still cant see it, stands out like --------on my pics Srange, that pic shows it central on the crank and tracking rearwards and then coming back to central????? Just had another look, has the top idler stud been bent down a little? that would cause the belt to track back, but if the cam gears are on squarely, the idlers are bolted on properly and square, the belt has no option but to track in line with the crank sprocket. Good luck

 

Open your eyes, or do you need glasses now? :banned:

 

And yes I do need glasses

 

Incorrect Tracking Timing Belt

Hmmm,

Very interesting, I manually moved the belt back to the correct position on the sprockets by moving the crank around by hand and re-aligning the belt by hand as well. I disconnected the fuel pump relay and turned the engine over via the starter motor to see how the belt would track on the sprockets. Not good I'm afraid. The belt immediately tracked to the rear again and started to rub on rear cover and the tensioner housing as described before. Then stayed in that position, it's just touching by a mere millimeter or so.

I was wondering if I tackle small things at a time:

• Replace idler pulley locating shafts on block - maybe bent?
• Perhaps look at tensioner as it may be bent too?

 

but wd-40 is 1 of the 2 required tools, If it moves and shouldnt, ductape

if it doesnt move and should, wd-40, not inox,

there is 1 product i have found to be by far better than inox though, Its a marine grade lubricant that is suposed to do everything qd-40/inox does, but is a bit pricey, must say however it was able to loosen just about every bolt on a 69 model ford ute that has been sitting in some guys shed for about 15 years.... Ill see if i can find it and get the name

 

I wouldn't think that it would be the tensioner being a new unit. Is it seated properly?

As for the top idler stud being bent, it's a possibility. Caz sells new ones. Check it with a straight edge.

How was the belt located when you took it off the first time? Towards the front, or the rear as it is now? Any signs of wear on the rear belt covers to indicate that it has been running off before?