Cost about $700 for a new harness. Hardest part is getting it through the firewall - need to remove the AC which means removing the dash. Replacing under the bonnet just takes patience. I've done it 3 times (into 1 z - out from that z and into next z).
thanks for that. I've sliced into the harness move os the way past the back of the block chasing this damn short. Thought I had it at one point, wasn't getting 0 volts across centre and right hand side pin..... then found im NOW getting 0 volts across the 2 outter pins.
rewire Find out which pins they goto on the ECU and run two seperate wires for the O2's only, this is a fix that should only be done as temporary until you can chase up a new or at least good second hand harness. also Chris I have a harness here that you are welcome to come and scavenge for parts if you like. Andy
oooooooh what a bloody good idea matey. I'll do some more poking around over the next few days as the car is in bits this week anyway, and if all else fails, I'll do that. That can be a temp fix until I buy a new harness (i'll go new i think). What's the best wire to use for the 02's anyone? And what pins on the ECU? Could I make this last long? ie If i buy a new harness, I'd rather slam that on the engine I want to rebuild over the next 2 years. Do it ONCE. Do it RIGHT
Kind of fixed Today I put the Zed back together and decided to wrap up the 3 O2 sensor wires separately in electrical tape as far back as 3 joins in the harness. I then tapped all the wires back up and will get some fresh cable tidy on tomorrow. Not expecting a result really (as I was just putting my door trims back on and wanting to get the zed just running again) I fired her up and checked the readings using the laptop. Am now getting a reading on BOTH o2's Need to check it after a run as they don't seem to be sweeping very far (either of them) so this may bring in to question the quality of the O2's in use, but I'm no longer getting 0 volts Only other thing I can think of they "may" have affected this is when putting back my door panels, I left out the booster boxes for my tweeters. So either just the old insulation on the original wiring was the issue, and the new electrical tape has improved this (most probable) OR dodgy stereo wiring I think option 1
hey i just bought a ECU USB thing, one of my sensors have gone bad on me but i don't know which one. Whats the reading i need to know to tell which one needs replacing. Can someone help
As stated above in this thread, BOTH should read .32 if DISCONNECTED (worth trying to see if you've got a short first) Connected, they should read verty low, fluctuating, and then when warmed up (after a 10 min drive for example) they should then "sweep" at around 2000 rpm. If one is lazy, it will not sweep far. What leads you to think you've got a bad O2? Poor running? Bad rev flat spot about 2.5K rpm? (usually the sign). If so, Disconnect the O2's one at a time and see which one "clears" the issue. That's the easiest way. To be honest though, REPLACE BOTH. Might as well.
Another by product of this fix..... Today I thought....and then I checked.....and sure enough.... MY Turbo Timer now gives me an O2 reading It hasn't done that since the new Sensors were installed. I remember questioning this at the time and was told it was because they weren't wide band O2's or something. Now I've fixed this short, I'm getting a reading again after all this time. So in theory.... this has been like it all this time DOH! Be interesting to see if I get decent econamy at last. LOL over 1 year running with a shorted out sensor. DOH!!!!
