Q1: What software lets you see seperate readings for EACH o2 Sensor? Is there any? I'm using ECU Talk and it gives me: O2 Sensor (both???) O2 Sensor RH (Right hand im guessing?) ...but there is no O2 Sensor LH ....so is RH something else? Aaaaaany way... on to my readings I've got a feeling my driver side isn't giving a reading. Given the Sensor is only 1.5 years old, I'm thinking it's the dodgy old original wireing on the "Loom Side" of the connector. It looks like its hanging by a thread to me with poor/cracked flex Readings BOTH conneted = 0.08 with very slight flutuation on throttle (no load, just static in garage. Assume it needs to be under load to sweep????) NEITHER connected = 0.32 SOLID, no fluctuation DRIVER side connected = 0.32 SOLID PASSENGER side connected = 0.08 with slight fluctuation on throttle Q2) Would I be correct in assuming from the above text that there is an issue with the Driver side O2/connection? Seems like a no brainer but I'd rather check. Planning on cutting back the bad wire and soldering on some new flex and connecting up to the connector and see if that changes things. Q3) Should I be seeing a sweep even with no load? (can't test drive until laptop battery is charged lol) Other than that, found quite a few vac hoses that look worse for wear and easily slide off, so I guess it's off to Auto1 for hose and cable ties Also Base Idle seems fine which is nice.
The sensor has to be hot before it will work properly. It doesn't need load to show a fluctuation, a quick rev will make them move.
O2 sensor, this is the L/H O2 sensor R/H, this is the right. They will not fluctuate at idle, you need to rev it to get them to work, they should sweep quickly from low/high/low/high. Should go low to high within 1 second. Any slower and they are probably not working correctly.
ah ok sooooooooooo Eng Temp was up to 75 but I hadn't gone for a run so I guess they could have still been cold. so with RH being Driver side...... and that giving a constant reading of 0.00 then that's definatly not giving any reading, at all (no connection - those bad wires i mentioned) So i guess I need to fix that first and then see if I get any reading from the RH one after it's connected properly Then re-test when she's good and warm. Wait.....Why would the RH give a reading of 0.00 when disconnected (via poor wires) ...and the LH (if that's what its reading) give a reading of .32 when disconnected?
They both should have a reading of 0.32v when disconnected, maybe its time to get the mm out and start chasing wires.
0.00 would sugest the 2 wires are shorted. i.e. 0.00v between them. 0.08v (or anything really) would suggest the wires have a resistance but not due to the sensors themselves. This suggests that there is a high resistance short to ground.
so you're saying the 0.08 doesn't sound normal either? What should they read at idle? I popped out today and got some wire and a nice new soldering iron and solder and stuff, so I'll tackle that connector tomorrow. Not sure how lol.. it's pretty tight in there on the driver side. Not much room to get to the wires.
yea theres not you could only replace maybe half the length. Drivers side is a pain big time, I couldnt get mine out and cant afford to have it done by a mechanic (already let gavin wood have a go) and he couldnt make it budge and I broke a kinchrome extension bar trying myself. They should still fluctuate at idle just perhaps not as much compared to high rpm. What they read at idle depends on how much oxygen there is. Do you have datascan? I can send you the data replay file so you can see what a dead one looks like. lol Maybe if the front was off the ground and pull the wire down from under the car, may get more of it that way then once soldered pull it back up.
na the O2 Sensor itself "should" be fine as not that old, and the connector and wires to the sensor are new (part of the sensor). It's the wiring on the other side of the clip (the original wires) that look shot and they are at the top. I should be able to just cut that part of the clip out and attach some nice good wires to the terminals. Then it's just a case of getting those new wires soldered in place of the originals in the engine bay that'll be the pain in the butt.
Take the car for a 5-10min drive before you test the O2 sensors. Even if the engine is up to operating tempereature, some times the O2's take longer to warm up and start working. The sensors will sweep rather rapidly at around 2000rpm if everything is in order (without any load ). Because a sensor is only 1.5 years old, doesn't mean that they can't be stuffed. Excessive rich mixtures and/or the use of non sensor safe gasket maker on engine parts prior turbo (i.e. if you manifold has been remove and resealed before with unsafe gasket goo), your O2 sensors can die pretty quickly. Also the use of some injector cleaners and ocatane boosters can sometimes be harmful to your O2 sensors. We're always spending big dollars on our dyno wideband O2 sensors because the use of standard automotive silicone on exhausts can stuff up the reading/damage sensors. Mind you, half the time its when tuning cars on avgas
Cheers Tom Will do another as Im sure the passenger side one is working regaurdless of no sweep the other day, but its the 0.00 reading even when disconnected on the RH sensor reading which is pointing strongly towards the wiring on the drivers side connector. Given it looks like this has been patched a couple of times in the past also, it's also very short so should be a nice challange haha. Planning on grafting in some fresh wires and give it back some lenght. At present, it doesn't even reach the clips mounting point
Today removed the clip, made sure none of the 3 wires were shorting out on each other, and grafted in some nice clean extra flex. Managed to blow my Eng Cont fuse when I let the bare wires touch the plenum DOUH but having seen that before, I knew which fuse to swap out. Also noticed that another connector near the O2 connector had 2 bared wires that could have easily been touching. So fixed that too. Can't see anything else in the area that could be shorting out And STILL i get 0.00 on the RH O2 Sensor reading Connected or not, it reads 0.00 volts. Could something else shorting be causing this? or faulty ECU maybe? Thinking, given I want a new alarm system as well due to water damage on the old one, it might be time to throw money at an Auto Sparky. At least NOW i know I'm on the trail of my running stupidly rich though. Baby steps.
Sounds like theres alottta old wiring there. Can't find a straight answer on the 'correct' disconnected value. Some say it should be 0 because it's not making a circuit, others are saying that it should be a .32 because that's the value the ECU substitutes when it's disconnected (kinda like a closed loop value?). Either way it definitely sounds like you're on the right track, just be persistant and go as deep as you need to, never forget your plenum grounds when playing with the wiring and make sure every single bit of wiring is insulated.
k rigged up a test cable that made it easy to connect the Driver O2 to the Passenger Connector on the harness and visa versa Findings are as i expected. When connecting the Passenger side o2 (which WAS giving a reading) to the DRIVER side Connector, I still got 0.00 volts on the RH reading. And yes I first tested the cable to make sure it worked. So this proves it's NOT the O2 Sensor So what the fk would make the ECU read a solid 0 volts? Besides a short, could an ECU fault result in this? Anyone had that before? Fuses? Other sensors that come into play? Given it's showing it's age, I'm thinking a new harness might be the go. That'll be fun.
how hard is it to swap for a new harness? Big job? Other things to do while I do it? Cost of harness?
You have two leads to the sensor. If they are shorted together, the potential difference (PD) is 0.0000000000000000V (give or take millivolt differences due to wiring resistance). If both are shorted to ground, you will also get 0.0000000000000000V. If both are shorted to 12V and you are reading across them, again you will get 0.0000000000000000V. However, reading from either of them to ground will give you 12V (or 13.6 or whatever your battery voltage is) If either or both are open, you will probably see something in the millivolt range, and it will probably be fluctuating. That should explain it.
yeah but i've re-done the connections and ensured there is no short that I can see. So for all the wire i can see on the harness for that connector, there is no obvoiuse point that that's shorting out, until the wire disapears into the rest of the jungle of the harness.
