EP Racing Crankscraper/Windage Kits

Helical mesh together whilst straight cut more grind or smash more and would probably chip or wear off.

 

true...but my coatings are just a topical coat like 90% of the coatings out there are. Regardless of helical or straight cut...they still make contact with each other. The difference in what I offer is that my coatings become the sub straight and not just a coating that chips/flakes off.

I'll understand if you dont want to risk/try this procedure out...but if you do I can cut you a good deal for being a shop and trying out my coating process on some of your components. May end up being a good addition to your line up of parts.

And yes I do know you are in Aussie.

 

I want some more technical details on this wonder coating. Got a data sheet or even a name?

 

what types of data are you looking for. i have everything at my disposal I can send you. Shoot me an email for details.

 

I have a new Teflon crankscraper design that is finally done. This is a molded and cut teflon piece that is incorporated into the original design allowing you to have a complete conformed scraper for the entire rotating assembly. This kit still retains the baffle screen portion as the original units have right now. Pricing is $225 for the kit. I'll have images available soon.

Just informing you guys.

 

got pics yet?

 

hay mate do you do anything for sr20 rwd?
if so please pm me.

 

should have them in a few days. Having quite a few sets of the regular kits made/ready to ship....the teflon version I should have ready not too far afterwards.

 

yes I do....please email me for information.

tech@epracing.net

 

i'm interested in this teflon setup, get some pics for us

 

I should have the new teflon version for viewing in a few more days. hang tight

 

cool - got em yet?

 

I should have them in today. Waiting on the teflon itself is what took the most time.

 

Ok...the updated pics of the new Teflon kits. These retail for $200.















I know some of you are going to ask why this item has fasteners to it and are speculative about worrying if the hardware will fall off. The nuts themselves are tapered for a very secure fit but along with that the installation requires the use of loctite which will ensure the fasteners will not come loose. You can also tab a small amount of silicone around each fastener if you want extra insurance of keeping them on. The only issue with that is when oil comes in contact with the silicone the silicone doesn't stand up to hot oil very well so that poses a direct issue. The combination of having the fasteners tapered with the use of loctite is more than enough to ensure the product from failing.

This kit comes with layout fluid as when you rotate the crank over you will make an impression onto the teflon where you will need to cut and make clearance for the crank. Since teflon won't snap and break off, you can run a much tighter clearance to the crank counter weights and rods. You can do a zero clearance where the teflon physically scrapes the counter weights but I only suggest that for purests in racing. Outside of that the installation is very straight forward. Use a high grade silicone for installation and ensure you do not cake the silicone on. Its very important you make a seal but you must not lay the silicone on thick.

 

Looks good Mate,

Just to clear it up a bit for me, having this teflon part just gives a much tighter tolerance with the crank, hence greater anti-windage effect?

I'll be up for one product eitherway, still deciding if I want to modify my sump.

Can the teflon side be selected with either the race or non race other side?
And does this effect the price of $200?

Thanks
Ben

 

And do you have pics on how to modify the sump for anyone that wants to DIY?

 

Helllo,

Price for the race/street version for the teflon system is $200. You are correct in stating that the teflon since you are able to run a tighter clearance to the rotating assembly you have better ability to control windage.

Mattz....i posted some images a few replies up in this thread showing what needs to be done to the oil pan. You do not have to modify the sump area at all. Just an area near the pan rail.

ttyl guys

 

parts received Mitch.

Quick question, See how the verticle screens run parrallel to the side of the sump wall. If they where radiused/curved in toward the crank more the thought would be they work better?

 

got mine today. thanx

 

damn..i was sweatin bullets..lol Glad you guys got them. We had already tried to curve the last screen but the oil pan still needs to be modified in order for the screen to fit. Having the screen lay parallel with the oil pan side wall allows oil to collect on the entire area. I did try a few different ideas on curving them and such but this was the best way we could do them. You have to remember where that screen lays..is as close to the crank as it can go. Any closer and you have direct contact...no good.