Big GTR motors running around 800hp use a single 90mm throttle body so you're probably right on the money there
Here's some calcs and chart, a cam profile could be developed to suit Z32 S.A. under 45 degrees and linearly ramping up to full VH45 S.A. over 45 degrees - I haven't decided what I'll do in regards to that yet.
Nah haven't touched the paintwork for a while, I've been busy working on the engine. I'll post up pics of the paintwork when its sanded and buffed, but that will be after the drivetrain is back in the car, it might even be after the car is running and tuned!
Yeah it does, but that linkage assembly sits further forward and the axis of rotation will require a shaft that will clash with the cam covers (the front PCV sections). As for removing that cam assembly and relocating it to the centre of the plenum where the original Z one is, yeah that could be possible, we'll see. The other option is that I just do nothing. Looking at that excel chart I did up, I'm not convinced that it'll be that undriveable. At low throttle, they're not too dissimilar. (10% on my foot is like 15% on your foot - so what? and 20% on my foot is like 30% on your foot - keep in mind that your foot is part of a feedback loop and its got a "learn" mode) People have made this out to be a big deal, but I'm not sure it is. However I haven't done this before, so I'm not talking from experience, but I don't think they are either. We'll see. I have a 6 puck clutch though, I'm not sure if that'll make things worse or the if the "binary-ness" will be masked/hidden by the low-throttle-resolution if you get what I mean. We'll see. Started playing with the aluminium welding, a challenge but I'm starting to get the hang of it. I'm practicing every night, so each day I'm a bit better than the day before :zlove: The standard VH throttle body has a lot of shite hanging off the side, looks pretty ugly IMO. I've been cleaning that up with a grinder
Dude, firstly, big pat on the back man. That's some awesome A1 work! I just wanted to ask, why all that work to only go with Type S subs? I thought you would have at least gone with Type R, PDX or even Rockford Fosgate Power or Polk Momo?
Type R magnets are bigger, and they require more enclosure volume. I'm not an audiophile, and I had two 12" Type S in the boot previously, and it was more than enough power in my opinion. Now those are two 10" subs, but from memory they had the same power rating (? it's been a while since i looked at the specs or even thought about it). Now they're shooting into your spine, which should be perfect. My ears don't want it to be any louder... Plus, I'm building my car on a budget, with the emphasis on ME doing as much as possible I'm not interested in investing big bucks into it, that's not what this project is about. I see others doing projects where they hand over big wads of cash to others, and their updates involve pics taken when they had a visit to the garage. Which is a bit like making a baby but having someone else shagging ur woman :bash: I'm the only one shagging this woman :zlove: I'm making this baby The other reason I'm doing this project is for the skills I pick up along the way, that I can apply to future projects. I already have my eyes set on what I'll be doing after the zed, it becomes an addiction. So far I've learnt to paint, prep the body, fibreglass, port match stuff, and now I'm learning to weld aluminium. These are all good skills and experiences and I'm enjoying doing it. Thanks for the compliments NewbieZ31.
i had twin type S's, and then had the same amp but tried out my mates Type R's. I reckon the Type S's went harder and sounded better, just my opinion though. I've got an RF Punch now - awesome sub i reckon.
looking bloody awesome dude.. well done on doing it al your self too.. any chance of sending me some more pics of the subs? (sirstretch@hotmail.com) how'd you go with making the boxes? i've re done the interior in my car now 3 times, and i'm about to do it again for the last bloody time lol.. keep the photos coming dude, looking brilliant...
Sound and temperature The temperature difference if at all, is probably noticeable around the gearbox and firewall near the dumps etc
Harness (Ethanol Friendly) Just did a quick mod on the harness tonight, following 90TTZ's write-up seen here: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270042 Thanks for that mate I recommend this mod to anyone that finds an opportune moment to carry it out, it's a simple 20 minute job: Before During (finding the right wires) During (heat-shrinking the soldered connections) After :zlove:
