saw that article a while ago, a few of the jetski boys were following it by breaking it in like you stole it! I dont know if id have the balls to run a fresh engine hard straight up thou just doesn't sit right with me lol
My old boss was a fan of this philosophy and would run in jetski engines at full throttle and sometimes high boost, never took apart one of those engines again but didn't have a complaint in the 2 years since rebuild. No way i'd do this with a car engine.
Yea, I'm really curious on this topic as I'm still not quite 100% on how to run in my engine once its back on the road. That article seems to be talking strictly about smaller sized motors like bikes. I'd venture a guess the dynamics change when you upsize to a full sized car motor. MoulaZX
I ran my last engine in on dyno Very hard ! after run in you would be lucky to see a puff of smoke coming out of my exhaust revving at 7500rpm .. rings sealed very well. Will be doing the same with my new engine.
Please run your engine in properly... We don't want to be reading about another smokey rebuild... Who is tuning it? Don't run it around in stock tube with big injectors or those rings will never seal. If you take it to Mark for a tune he can give you some solid advice on running in.
Contradictions: If the engine builders are continually using finer and finer bore hones in their production lines, wouldn't this NEGATE the need to run in an engine HARD due to reduced 'file' effect on the rings within the first 20 miles. I also seem suspicious to see why the author feels the need to define a 'dyno' to the reader... clearly shows that he is writing to a gullible and amateur audience.
^^^^^^^^THIS! Emile - run in yr engine on the stock injectors, THEN when it's time to tune, drop in yr JECS 750's - that's what Mark had recommended I should have done in the first place to avoid most of the smoke / oil use / problems I had with mine. TRUST ME! - DO IT!
This sounds crazy to me. I really cant see how going hard is better than easing into it. I had the opportunity to run in an engine when I purchased my '11 Kawasaki. It quite clearly stated in the manual that you must not exceed X revs until you obtain Y kilometers. Running is engines is a hot topic on bike forums as there're a lot of brand new purchases made due to bikes costing considerably less than the 4 wheeled counterparts. The consensus is that you should slowly run in an engine. That's what I'll always do no matter the engine size.
The guy who built my last engine, an ex race car mecahic told me to just drive it normally .... except ... give it a little boost every now and again til it had a few thou on the clock then ... just drive. Engine has lasted 10 years ... but has now shat one of the VTC gears and is leaking like a stuck pig
Run it in on stock injectors with a built motor and HKS 2530's You will be babying it up to 2500-3000 rpm, throw your 750's in and trailer it to your tuner let them adjust K value for the 750cc injectors and fire it up.
Only problem here is... my old injectors are mostly in pieces. Why can't I just adjust the K value at my place? I have the USB cable... surely there must be software out there to be able to just adjust just that. And I don't see why I need to use the old Injectors in the first place. If the K value is correctly set, what difference does it make what injectors I use? I was going to run it in on low boost anyhow (about 12-16 PSI, whatever my actuators are set at), be it 370CC or 750CC its not like either are going to be dumping 100% of their capability. Or am I missing another argument here completely? (I tried going for the 615CC ones Sav, Coz wasn't going to have any in stock for a while ) My original thought was going to be to drive it average, not thrashing it and not babying it either, lot of gear deceleration and decent pulls up to (on occasion) 5000 RPM and no higher for a couple thousand KMs then start slightly higher boost pulls till is up to about 4-5000KMs then get it properly tuned for 22 or 24 PSI whatever my tuner thinks it can safely handle. MoulaZX
For running in an engine, would you guys suggest a stock tune or get a "run in tune" done on the dyno?
Exactly my point. No difference at all just adjust K value, I wouldn't wanna muck around with plenum pulls after its all in there anyway.
I dont see a problem running it in with the bigger injectors ..providing its tuned properly/ right K value . I'll be using 1000cc (tuned on dyno)
