Yeah, don't use seatbelts out of the Z unless your getting new ones Driveshaft comes out to remove gearbox, only 6 bolts. Most of your gearbox oil will come out.
and I have to remove the gearbox to do the job? Im using the na box, but plan on doing the shim job and tt flywheel thing. Sorry if im asking silly questions here. Not too familiar on these grounds.
you definitely need to remove the gearbox to do the job. you can leave it sitting underneath car though, just lower it. when we did mine josh had a special jack, but we found the best method was an old tyre (or new if you have deep pockets) and place it underneath to act as a pillow. when you do the removal definitely be ready with a bucket as a lot of fluid will come out. i couldn't believe how much and its a pain in the ass to clean up. even with my na gearbox sitting in the garage now there's still fluid draining from it.
I don't want to sound rude Attila, but you sure you are up to this? Have a really good read of the tech section on removing engines etc and have a read of the service manual.
I think so. I realise theres a whooole lot of learning for me to do as I make progress, and that it will take a lot longer than I think. Ive read the tech engine removal guide, and been following that step by step. So far ive been going alright I think. Dealed wit hwhatever problems ive come across. I think i'm a fair way into it so wouldnt really turn back now (or have I just touched on the job and just dont realise how much more there is to do and how difficult it is?). Ive disconnected everything, including PS pump, alternator, AC compressor, cruise control because it was in the way, got the exhaust off this afternoon. Upto starter, gearbox and driveline. Am I making steady progress or have I just touched on the easy business? I also got a 1.5tonne engine hoist. I havent had any doubts about the project so far, figured if others can do it I can as well, as long as I learn everything along the way and get advice and support from you guys. But when I hear things like this I wonder if I really have jumped into something stupid here...
No way to drain the fluid before you disconnect it? Or does a bunch leak even after its been drained? Hmm I got a few old tyres figuring I might need them to put the engines on and stuff. Only problem is im doing all this on the street :S I guess it doesnt matter, can still drop it out where the car is.
taking the engine out is the easy part, in the grand scheme of things. How are you going to run the fuel setup? Are you using an NA ecu with TT fuel maps, and the NA FPCU and NA fuel pump, or are you going to use a TT computer, TT FPCU and TT fuel pump and just add in the addition wiring? I'm going with the latter as i already have a TT ecu and i feel this is the better option. i'm still unsure as to how many adaptations i shall need to make to mate the NA gearbox to the TT engine. Asides from the shim for the started, i've heard you need to shear off a bit of the bellhousing as well?? Not sure. And you also need a TT clutch and fly. i'm still researching and haven't started mine yet, should be starting early next year depending when i find a new job and if the zed may need to become a temporary daily driver again
also wondering your thoughts on the air con. Though *some* of the piping, from what i've read, can be "massaged" to fit around the intercooler piping, you WILL NOT be able to use the NA condenser. Hence why i'd love a halfcut, or to ditch aircon possibly also, do you have you starter shim, oil cooler, FMIC/stock smics, boost controller etc yet? just wanna compare notes so to speak as i'm slowly amassing parts and should start early next year, and would like to know if there's anything different you've learnt cheers mate
I have a Jim Wolf ECU for the tt. Also have tt harness. Havent got the FPCU or TT pump yet, but plan on doing that. I dont know about the shimming bit yet as I havent a clue about that area. Ill work it out when I get to there and see whats going on. Ideally tt flywheel and clutch, as ill have a bit more power than stock tt. I definately want to keep the aircon, so going to get the tt condenser and hardpipe for it to work. I havent heard about maknig the na condenser fit, but if thats possible id much rather do that. Got the oil cooler. Still learning about intercoolers/ waiting for a good deal to pop up, but plan on going a FMIC. Boost controller im holding off on buying still. I want to work out my clutch flywheel setup first then buy b controller and BOV's all together to save a bit on postage. (Also thinking about getting one good BOV instead and trying to work the single setup like 5ticky has.
hey mate, you definitely need the AC condensor as you need to fit the FMIC piping unless you get custom piping made up. apparently you can massage the AC lines into place but i wouldn't bother. switching the AC lines over takes 5 seconds - just make sure you get some replacement O rings. for the boost controller - have a look at www.amecautocare.com.au Member ' Fleet' runs the business and did me a great deal on a Greddy one along with a boost gauge - bloody quick postage too!! cheers Jay
How exactly do I lower the transmission? Do I need to go buy a transmission jack? Or is there an easier way to just lower it onto a tyre somehow??
Also jaybo I know youve done the shim job, would you be able to update me on whats necessary there as I dont know this area at all. All I know is the tt flyheel is bigger diameter so something has to be done to adapt it, involving a shim (dont know what that is either).
the shim just brings the starter moter out further so engages properly with the TT flywheel. When do you need to have all this done by?
No particular time. My n/a engine gave in so I havent had a car for 3 months while I did the research sourced an engine and stuff. Im going overseas early jan till march, so Ill be doing most of the work in march when I get back. Im trying to get the old engine completely out and have done a bit of work on prepping the new engine by the time I leave though.
hey mate, you don't need a transmission jack, josh and i did it without one. we used two jacks, one at the front one at the rear of the gearbox. We undid the bolts on the cross member for the engine, and lowered the rear of the gearbox. that then tilted the motor back in the engine bay with the gearbox attached and allowed better access to the top gearbox bolts. when we lowered the rear of the gearbox we lowered it onto an old tyre. from there we undid the gearbox bolts and while keeping it steady we lowered the front jack. from there it was a case of sliding the gearbox off the semi crushed tyre. i didn't have to do the shim job as i used a TT gearbox and TT starter motor. if you want more info on the gearbox removal do a search for some recent posts - loud n proud (josh) did it for his as well and at the time asked about it.
Aha I see. Ill need to go buy a jack then as ive been using the standard tire jack with two pin jack stands to hold it up after the car was up. I assume two standard tyre changing jacks wont be sufficient? Got hold of a tyre today, built my engine crane, got a trolley to move the engine around on. Now I just need to work out this jack bit and im good to go on finishing the removal part
Buy one of these and borrow another for pulling the box off. $100 or so from Supercheap, get a big one. Makes jacking the car up easy, but if your car is low it won't fit under without first driving up on some planks or using the normal scissor jack. IMO the scissor jack should only be used in emergencies on the side of the road, too flimsy for workshop use. Also get 2 sets of these: Stops you from dying Cars fall fast, don't skimp on the safety.
I either put all the bolts back in their holes, or bagged them yeah. As for the wires, I think its all pretty self-explanatory. The plugs are all bent to their respective partners by now, and stay in that position. Also since im putting a different engine with a new harness in I didnt think labelling anything would help as the new harness is pretty much still all attached.
