does anyone know of a link or a tech article that describes how to remove the clutch pedal? This is in an NA, but I have a TT clutch booster fitted in my car so I'm assuming that has to be factored in as well... Any help would be great... Thanks
i did it once a while back. could get it out alright but to get it back in a bit of the AC ductwork had to be removed. was PITA. cant remember exactly it was quite some time ago
its been a while since i did it,from memory, employ a contortionist,undo clutch rod,take off the split pin(near impossible),slide the clevis pin out,dont lose the plastic washer and take off return spring Prick of a job,it can be done in the car as i did it last year when i had a worn pedal-see pic when reinstalling the return spring,watch the pedal doesnt smash you in the head -it hurts lol heres a diagram
yeah... I'm thinking I'll just pull the dash out.... seems like a much bigger job, but I've done it before and its not that difficult.... The clutch pedal on the other hand in uncharted territory.... and I'm not a good contortionist..
ye i remember on trying to re-install with dash in there was a rediculous pin or something u had to line up whilst under tension. was a complete joke me n mate tried for few hours before pulling the ductwork. im very patient and very good at fiddly shit but this time it just did not want to play. i advise pull the piece under steering column and a few bits of duct. shouldnt take that long.
I don't envy your predicament Mark, when I pulled the heater core on Renee's without removing the dash it was a real PITA job and its an automatic Good luck with it all, make sure your other half is a safe distance away when the expletives start rolling out Cheers! Craig
hey man, I found its really easy, if you pull out the speedo, to get to the top Nut on the clutch pedal mount, its not a job i wanna do again, but... all the little bits of advice helps i hope....
Rather than start a new thread on something that's been covered already, I'm going to Lazarus this thread. Can anyone else chip in with advice for installing the clutch pedal. I'm doing a manual swap and I cannot for the life of me get the pedal in, let alone the booster.
If you havent already taken the seat out, that is a good start. Flex head ratchet spanners and uni joints for your sockets. It isnt fun but quite doable.
Yep, take seat out and guessing you haven't put the master in yet but if you have get it out of the way. I installed the pedal and booster as a unit (already bolted together) not sure if installing them individually is possible or which is better but that's how I got it. There's a bit of loom running through a plastic channel towards the steering wheel end that needs to be jimmied out of the way with a big flat head or something.
I'm a bit confused here - how do you install the pedal and a unit if there is a firewall in the way? Seat is long out, it's just squeezing the pedal cage in behind the damn dash. I'll try to see what I can do to make more space.
You could just take the dash out. It is only a ~2hr job. Often faster to pull it out in the long run.
When you say firewall in the way are you confusing the booster and the master cylinder? Is this a TT manual kit?
It's an NA kit. I'm mainly talking about the pedal assembly mainly. the clutch master comes through the firewall fine (after I cut holes) but the main thing is physically fitting the pedal into the space. It goes in around 30% but then get's jammed in like there isn't any space.
I was thinking this as well - a lot of guides say to pull the dash - looks pretty daunting for me. But I've noticed that there is a small water stain in the heater core area (and that the previous owner has kinked the rubber heater hoses) so I may have to do a preventative heater core swap...
It looks harder than it actually is. If you aren't in a hurry to get it all back together you can take the time to clean up while it is out.
Yeah I've been looking at this - and yeah it doesn't look so terrible - Just time consuming. If I do I'm going to do the heater core at the same time though .
Ok, NA doesn't have a booster so that bit isn't relevant. I had to be pretty forceful to get mine in, line up the bolt holes then force the operator end of the pedal up into place past all the junk.
