how do i fit side skirts?

Discussion in 'Non Technical' started by canario, Oct 31, 2009.

  1. canario

    canario New Member

    hey guys, do anyone know a web page which shows u how to fit sideskirts?
     
  2. ice

    ice ice maaaaaaan

    lawl.....

    Buy some silka flex (in a tube) and need a chalk gun to squeez it out. (its like glue). Then put a screw on each side of the skirt (top and bottom of each side)
     
  3. directzx

    directzx New Member

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    last person to listen to for advice on body part installation.













    :rofl:[TIS]
     
  4. ice

    ice ice maaaaaaan

    im fully experienced now
     
  5. WLDTTZ

    WLDTTZ URBAN LEGEND

    haha i saw your name as the last person who posted on this and thought it was you asking the question on how to do it lol that would av be funny shit :D
     
  6. directzx

    directzx New Member

    yep, your eye lids looked AWESOME.

    the fact you laughed at him for asking how to fit side skirts and gave a hopeless description of how to poorly fit side skirts is enough to know you have NO IDEA when it comes to aftermarket body panels.


    leave the thread and let someone who actually knows what there talking about advise him/her.




    *note- Italic's mean sarcasm*
     
    r33k likes this.
  7. JD-3193

    JD-3193 New Member

    Remember the time that iCER tried to use a rear apron as a complete rear bar and then wondered why it wouldn't fit?

    :rofl:
     
  8. ice

    ice ice maaaaaaan

    im just saying its how we fitted mine on. Everyone has their ways.

    The right way, the wrong way, and the greek way.

    Cant go telling me my bodykit aint a tight good fit. especially if you havnt seen the car up close. So in the end, the kit has turend out great!

    Im sure others can post how to's here. So far im the only one with a successful answer. The rest of this thread is dribble as on all of the forum. Give the guy some answers, not an icer flame thread.
     
  9. mr zed x

    mr zed x chassis scrubbin..

    cable ties lawl.

    whilst i still LOL @ icers rear apron mishap and gaylids, i must point out directzx, icer still has a zed.

    so does that mean if you ever post on a tyres thread or how to drive in the wet without hitting a guard rail and destroying a zed icer can tell you to STFU ?
     
  10. BADZX

    BADZX Grumpy old fart

    taken from....
    http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271770
    :D
    or
    advanced search with user name "BADZX" and word search "urthane" ;)
    or......

     
    Cool300ZX likes this.
  11. BADZX

    BADZX Grumpy old fart

    Its a personal choice.... some perfer SIKAFLEX, ..... I hate sikaflex :mad:

    never had any success with the shyte and yes I've tried it on several occasions without any real success at all.
    Worst case is on my bashcar, it took nearly a year to cure to the same degree that the urthane I used in an adjacent area did within 48hours.

    Sikaflex is good for windscreens and thats about it
    :cool:


    Kingy
     
  12. canario

    canario New Member

    Thanks mate
     
  13. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

    sika

    252 is the one to use, worked for me anyway.
     
  14. canario

    canario New Member

    yeah i got it tomorrow ill fit the rear apron
     
  15. ice

    ice ice maaaaaaan

    good to know your using the silka flex method. :)


    gl!
     
  16. GTP_VLBT1

    GTP_VLBT1 CAIRNS - Z- MAN

    i personally use engineering silastic, its a clear silastic/silicone forgotten the name you will find it at bunnings, as u can at least get the stuff off when u need to remove unlike sikaflex..
     
  17. BADZX

    BADZX Grumpy old fart

    Be careful of what it is exactly........ :eek:

    some silastic/silicones contain an ACID as part of their compound.....



    ACID = RUST


    You'll often see cars at the wreckers that have rusted out in odd places, usually its the result of the owner sealing up a leaking rubber section instead of replacing the rubber seal, windscreens on older cars with massive rust holes are a common sight..... thet havent rusted away, the acid in the silicone has eaten the steel away
    :eek:

    The other issue you'll encounter is the panel beater will want to beat you....
    some silicones are NOT paint friendly
    :mad:

    Kingy
     
  18. beaver

    beaver southern zeds

  19. mrkarter77

    mrkarter77 No Really, They do!!!

    Just a tip when you do come to paint. once you have got to primer stage.

    you can get little blocks with 2 different grades of sandpaper on it using one of those with some water will help achieve the "babys bottom" finish and will show up better on your finish
     
  20. samuraigecko

    samuraigecko New Member

    There is an EXTREMEMLY simple way.

    - prep the skirts.

    - Clean the contact surfaces on the inside of the skirts and the outside of the car where the skirts will make contact.

    - Run a bead of liquid urathene or sikaflex around the contact area of the inside of the skirts.

    - have yourself and a friend carefully preposition the skirts.

    - Using self taping screws (or even just normal screws) screw the skirts to the car. This holds the liquid urathene down to the surface for curing.

    - Leave the screws in for a week or so until the unrathene is completely cured.

    - You can either bed the screws and bog over for an even surface or you can just remove the screws. The liquid urathene will not be coming unstuck any time soon if cured properly and surfaces were cleaned properly. If you have removed the screws then put some filler in the old holes.

    - liquid urathene can be sanded and painted. So now it is time to finish off the prep and paint the skirts

    - Enjoy . . .
     

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