Hi all I've had a good search and not much came up on "clutch reviews or options" My clutch is slowly on its way out and I'll need to replace it in the next 6 months or so. It's slipping at 4000+ rpm however, under 4000rpm and it's ok. I'm happy with my stock TT "feel" so I'm not after anything extreme. I believe that I have a Exedy Heavy Duty (So the ad said when I bought my Z about a year ago) I'm not heavy on the clutch but It's certainly slipping unless other things cause slip at 4000+ rpm? What's a good clutch option for a daily driver - twice a year racer - mostly cruising clutch. I want to retain as much stock feel diveability with as good a lifespan as I can. I've found a few good options? COZ oem TT clutch $300 US + add delivery COZ Southbend 300ZX DXD Clutch - Rally Series Twin Turbo $350US + add del Caz Exedy Heavy duty - sports tuff $565 Aud Any other clutch recommendations? Cheers Pete
i got a excedy sports tuff clutch and has 1500kg rating. Holds my 310rwkw NO worries. Never slipped. And i give it a hiding.
I got this clutch http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Awesome price and product, couldn't recommend it enough
Extras needed when replacing clutch Ok makes sense to replace a few things while the gearbox is off for clutch work. I've read that some replacements should include: 1/ Rear main seal 2/ Clutch pivot ball (what ever that is) 3/ Nismo pilot bush (kind of like a better spigot bush is it??) 4/ New gearbox mount (I've random vibration from 80kph - 100kph and this might help lessen it. Wheel alignment & balance is excellent) 5/ Maybe braided clutch lines, but I'm happy with stock Zed so maybe over kill? Have I left anything of importnace off? Cheers again Pete
I wouldn't bother with a Nismo spigot/pilot bearing. Just go a normal brass bush, it will last longer as it can retain oil unlike the roller bearing. Other than that everything on your list looks right. You can change the clutch lines at anytime, gearbox doesn't have to be removed. Only really needed if yours are in bad condition.
Get flywheel machined..... A lot of people who do their own clutch replacement neglect to get the flywheel machined. It usually means being off the road for another day but it's worth it in the long run. If you're having it done by a workshop make sure they get it done. Definately replace the clutch line, either with a new oem or S/S, they don't last forever. You might want to think about replacing the master and slave cylinder while you're at it. A few extra bucks on preventative maintenance will pay dividends later on.
Cheers for the good advice I'll certainly get the flywheel machined I'll replace the clutch line for an OEM as a preventative measure I'll just go with the stock brass spigot bush Thanks for the superb feedback Pete
How about hoses? I think there are some coolant hoses which become accessible once the clutch & gearbox is out, and it might be prudent to change these, rather than have the cost of removing the clutch/gearbox sometime later just to replace a leaking hose. From memory, there are photos of the back of a VG30DETT in the Tech section. Possibly disable or remove the EGR? I know there are some doubts about whether this is a good idea or not, but should repairs ever be needed, then it looks impossible to fix without removing the clutch/gearbox, or at the very least, the complete plenum assembly.
F1 looks cheap but good - what do you reackon? The Gripforce - F1 - stage 2 looks pretty decent for the price. $259 US delivered - approx $280 Aud delivered. Its specs read well and a few good and bad reviews (more good than bad ). Although, I've also come across good and bad on my current 'slipping" Exedy HD as well. The complete F1 - stage 2 clutch kit includes: ?F1 Racing Heavy-Duty Pressure Plate ?F1 Racing Carbon Kevlar Disc (248mm, 24 spline) ?Release Bearing ?Pilot Bushing ?Alignment Tool ?Installation Guide More importantly from someone who has an F1 is their opinion of this (1st hand knowledge!)
Yep. Im using this exact clutch in my VG30det. Its a bonded and riveted driven plate with very H-D damper springs with no sandwich spring so the clutch takeup action is fairly immediate but still progressive. Very short pedal but nothing savage like a brass button pita. Gets a slight amount of shudder at crawling speeds. Nothing major tho. The whole setup lets you know its nowhere near a stock clutch tho. Pedal feel is very smooth and light with (as mentioned before) a very short pedal throw. Only needs about 50mm of pedal from completely engaged to disengaged. I have adjusted my pedal to about halfway down from stock and used an extended pedal backstop bolt to hold it down there. The clutch makes a curious and faint "whining" when the facings heat up (hotter = louder) and it gives off a burning smell every time you have to ask it any kind of question. Even if your just trying to reverse uphill into a bastard of a parking spot, which is kinda weird.... but the grip never lets up no matter how hot its been. Ive gotten used to the burning smell!! Only weird thing about the setup. I treated the clutch in the way that was recommended in the instructions...kinda "ran it in" but the smell persists even after a couple of thousand K's I think if you couple this clutch with a light steel flywheel (Fidanza) youd have a nice setup. Gripforce Clutches (Ebay) is the US mob I dealt with. I could have gotten my clutch kit AND a flywheel (cept i cant use the TT fly) delivered cheaper than any decent clutch kit available here. My 2 bobs. L8r E
