Auto Not changing gears

Discussion in 'Technical' started by My_Fairlady, Sep 16, 2009.

  1. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    Took the z for a drive, which i haven't done for months. Somethings wrong with the transmition, i assume it's the electronics. Before when you put your foot down in either A/T or Power it would kick back and hammer off, now it just take off slowly, like it never uses any other gear than 4th.

    whats the go.
     
  2. Kieren

    Kieren Active Member

    Sounds like it's in limp mode. Refer to the tech section for how to diagnose the auto using the 'power' warning light. It should give you an idea what's wrong.

    Most obvious thing first though, have you checked the trans fluid level?
     
  3. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    Interesting, I'll check it out. Fluid is fine. Only recently serviced the transmition.
     
  4. 300ZXC

    300ZXC #TEAMROB

    I had a similar issue recently.
    In the driver-side footwell area, there is a fusebox. The ATControl fuse sounds like it's blown. Issue with mine was a wire shorting out on my exhaust.
    Suss out that fuse, mine wouldn't use 1st gear and wouldn't rev past 2.5k RPM without keeping the stick in 2nd
    If that fuse is blown then look for shorting wires near the exhaust or, well, anywhere else AT wires are :)
    Cheers,
    Tom
     
  5. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    Fuse is ok, It has blown before, and my transmission wouldn't even go out of park unless i pulled the lick back.
     
  6. Stef

    Stef Active Member

    Does it come good after 5-10 min driving ?

    Mine did that for a while. Most likely an internal leak so hydraulic pressure would not build up. Mostly it would start in third, then after a k or so it would reluctantly start changing. Sometimes it would start in 1st and stay there for quite a while

    I put Wynns Auto gearbox conditioner in and that first made a bit of a difference. Then I went away for a month and gearbox had almost healed itself when I got back. We'll see if it will last.



    But do the self test and if that passes, try to find a full version of conzult where you can see the state of the solenoids. If they change and the gearbox doesn't, you have a mechanical problem. Larger gearbox place should have an instrument to plug in to do this aswell
     
  7. rockchucker

    rockchucker WTF???

  8. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    thanks,

    These expensive? Or are they a universal part.
     
  9. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    When I first turn the ignition on the power light comes on and hold then blinks 16 times.

    I don't think this is normal, I also can't get the self diagnostics to work.
     
  10. DinoZ

    DinoZ Talks sh#t for a living.

    Have you followed the procedure on pages AT45 to AT50 in the service manual?
    The blinking light when you turn the ignition on is saying "something screwy going on".

     
  11. pexzed

    pexzed Forum Administrator

    If the Power light flashes for 8 seconds, then you have to perform the diagnostic test.

    procedure found here
     
  12. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    Answer

    Thanks for the feedback and thanks especially to pexzed for the online manual. I didn't even know it existed in online form. I have a PDF but that's a huge pain to navigate.

    The problem is that the car is in fact in 'Limp' mode. It will only use 2nd gear no matter what the selector is on. Self Transmission Diagnostics test didn't bring up any flashing code on the 'POWER' or A/T lamp on the dash. This means that the car has a problem with either the Inhibitor, Overdrive, Kickdown or Idle Switch circuits.

    I'm yet to see which is causing the problem and will post up when I find which one it is and hopefully fix it.

    Link to Diagnostic Test here
    Link the Inhibitor, Overdrive, Kickdown or Idle Switch Circuit Test here and continues through 4 or 5 pages
    Link to test codes here and continue for 4 or 5 pages. You can find my code on the last page of the codes.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2009
  13. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    Referring to this, and continued to the next few pages.
    http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=at&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=62&design=default&total=194
    [​IMG]
    I get these volts from the diagnostics. The ones that are Less than 1 volt aren't a huge concern.
    Green = OK
    Red = Problem


    This graph shows that there is something wrong with the inhibitor.

    All of the other transmission selections should be be 0v

    I'm no auto sparky myself, I'm only working on knowledge I'm learning as i go along.

    Is this a fairly easy fix?
     
  14. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    Is it possible to get the car out of limp mode without fixing the issue?
     
  15. My_Fairlady

    My_Fairlady New Member

    EDIT: Wrong thread
     

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