I haven't seen a writeup for this so I thought I would do one This is all done on my '93 NA 2 seat slicktop. 2+2 may be different and TT's are definitely different with that HICAS sillyness. First off, jack the rear of the car up in the air, nice and high. Prop it up with some jackstands and remove the rear wheels. Remove your exhaust and drivehshaft. Mine is already off, so no piccies there. Remove the brake calipers, but don't disconnect the lines. Just let them hang. Undo the bolts holding the shock absorber to the hub. Noted in purple on a piccy further down. Undo the handbrake cable. It's just held on like a throttle cable and slips out easy. Just remember to let off the handbrake first Remove the brackets holding the cable in position. Put the jack under the diff at approx the middle. Undo the nuts holding the subframe in. The fronts have a little bracket with another 2 bolts. Make sure you undo the ABS connector. Lower the jack and the whole subframe should just drop. If it looks unbalanced, jack it back up do the nuts up and move the jack as required. Pull it out, done. It was actually a lot easier than I was expecting... Didn't take long at all. Coming soon how to install a aftermarket LSD Should finish that off tomorrow.
Yep. That's how its done. As you said it isn't as hard as it looks. Hardest part is moving it around the workshop as its got some weight in it.
I think the size of what you are taking out puts more people off than the work involved to do this I also liked your diff removal without the subframe the other day,nice one
That's exactly what I had to do every time I changed the hand brake pads on the SIII Jag. It has inboard brakes with very limited access. (I had to cut the exhaust too as it went through the subframe) It was quicker this way than trying to get the pads in correctly by using mirrors (and failing so they wore out in a week)
very helpful writeup, are they d-project camber arms that I spy? how do yo u rate them? i'm thinking of getting some very soon. 3 or so deg of neg camber doesn't my tyres justice.
great write up mate will help when i do my subframe bushes, and the diff removal was great, its out, shimmed and back in, (with ztoys help via PM)
Hopefully the mods move this into the tech section , I've been waiting to see a good write up on this . Good work :zlove:
No, I think they are tuneagent. Very happy with the quality and the bearings appear to be very high quality as well.
Is there any special attention needed in regard to where the tailshaft meets the diff? Is it just a spline-type setup that will flex at the uni joint enough until the subframe can be pulled away towards the rear of the car?
I know this may have been covered before but I'm still unsure on what the final verdict was. I've read some articles saying the Energy Suspension Diff Bushes don't sit correctly and cause the diff to hit the subframe(?) when accelerating, making a loud noise, etc... But some other posts say if you re-use the washes that are already there it solves the issue? Anyone had experience with the above? I'm thinking of doing this after Uni this semester and your photos have really helped. Actually doesn't seem like such a big job. And it will be very easy to work with the diff once it is out with the subframe. Thank you, Dono
Nah, it's a 4 bolt flange on the NA, and a 6 bolt flange on the TT's. You can just lower the driveshaft down while it is still in the gearbox, or split it in the middle, or remove it completely. You could easily remove the subframe with the driveshaft still attached to the car. Not sure on the bushes. I had a set in the last car and they worked fine. I have another set to go in once I have rebuilt the diff. So I'll let everyone know.
I have the energy suspension bushes thanks to chrispy as its his old car. I have no issue with the diff hitting. However the front and rear energy bushes are a different height. The rears (4081) are thicker than the fronts (4079). If you were to get them backwards it may hit but i doubt it. I'm not sure which washers you are talking about as the only washers that are there hold the bushes together and need to be used or subframe falls off. Now changing the bushes over is a mission and deserves a good writeup. Are you just going to burn them out again Chris?
Lol, fire makes everything better! I changed the bushes on the actual diff today, that was easy enough. The ones in the subframe look like a pain. I think I will strip everything off the frame so I can move it around easily enough in the press.
and if you have a TT, make sure you undo these 2 Banjos for HICAS. They are above the passenger side Driveshaft I think that was the only difference.
