Timing and overheating question - Hands up who had a piss poor day today ;)

sounds like the cap is part of the prob to me!!

Cheers
Patrick

 

no it aint a head gasket other wise you would know i have had 3 of them

 

and agree water pump sounds like a high chance of being the problem.

 

I don't think it's the cap because it didn't start leaking from there until the temp was 110+ and after I shut the car off and the pressure and temp spiked even higher.

Also, water pump is almost brand new, done maybe 2000 klms max.

Is there any chance that incorrectly routed turbo coolant lines or anything like that could be a problem?
Or blocked turbo lines?

I only just replaced them all but copied the way they came off as best I could while doing the bypasses. The turbo's were also upgraded in Japan and who knows if the lines were installed correctly before I purchased the car.

Running out of possabilities here

Ben

 

nope cap is doing its job, need to find the cause not the reaction

Trev

 

i drive past the workshop every couple of days and from what i can tell he is still operating, best bet would be to pop in and let him check it out.

 

Not that it is a solution to your problem, but we ALL had overheating problems at some point yesterday.
Mine peaked at 100c+ on the way to Kiama(whilst waiting for AADOOR to top up his radiator). Later on it ran 80c max, all the way home to Sydney.
It was a bloody hot day down south(one of the worst I've experienced in 9 years of Zed ownership).

 

ditch the spal thermo mate!! clutch fan all the way and your troubles will be gone.. electrics are good in cold climates not australia

 

Thanks guys,

Trouble is alot of those intercoolers were sold and very little reported problems.
I've tried doing the following before and yes it did help but still didn't bring temps down to what I would consider normal going off what everyone else is saying.
I'll remove the front mount and bypass it. And i'll re-fit the clutch fan and shroud and see what happens. And i'll replace my rad cap

I've had enough of the car for right now so i'll look at in a week or two.

Ben

 

I got the same SPAL thermofan as you, without a shroud and running a 56mm single pass radiator. I have a cabin mounted switch that i turn on when it gets to operating temperature. It sees coolant temps of around 80 degrees all day, everyday. (still stays under 95 when fanging) I dont think your problem lies there. Oh, and i have a dirty big front mount

Sounds like a pressure loss somewhere in your system!

 

I may of missed something here, but if it's blowing out from the cap then it's obviously not sealing, causing it to boil and thus is a pretty good candidate for the cause...There are a 101 places that would erupt before a working cap would.

ps...and when I say cap, I mean radiator neck as well.

 

well if the cap is allowing water to escape to the overflow then its doing its job, this is why overflow tanks were invented, in the old days without them it was a weekly event to top the rad up .

100 deg on the highway is def not normal, tracking the car mabee
as for the 101 places that are errupting before the cap i really don't think so ........... unless the coolant system is in very very poor shape .
but it dosen't cost much to get a new cap and rule it out either.

anything over 100 deg hyway cruising points to lack of coolant flow.

Trev

 

Stock one mate, and isn't the Ross balancer only slightly underdriven?

 

This is what I was hoping and expecting to hear. With everything i've got it should really have no problems keeping cool. Like i've already said, i've tried going back to the stock clutch fan etc, and yes it did cool better but still not as good as it should be and was only masking the main problem IMO.

Of course it's probably a little cooler down there where you are, but I have this problem in winter here too so that shouldn't matter.

Ben

 

hmmm maybe. From my perspective though which is only thinking about it logically, the cap was good enough to keep the system sealed up to 110c plus. And then was only overcome after I shut the car off and the temp and pressure would have then increased futher.
Also i'm running silicon rad hoses with T clamps, and efi clamps on all the small hoses, so I would think the cap would be the first thing to fail under rising pressure. Just my opinion though

Ben

 

Sounds like radiator cap Ben!

Should not piss out from the cap at all. Have never seen that before unless the cap is stuffed, old or not fixed down properly mate. Check the neck of your radiator properly also. If its leaking here it will be losing pressure and this alone will cause the overheating. Saw this on a car recently as the cap was minutely warn and different to the other fitted to it originally, try a new cap mate if its leaking there.

MattB

 

I'm going to give Caz a ring and get a new genuine cap for starters. And i'll do a flow test.
I was talking to a friend today and he told me he's seen an engine once (not a zed one) where there was problems with the cooling system and turned out that some stupid/lazy mechanic in the past had replaced all the welsh plugs but one that he had bashed in had been left in the block.
That's unlikely to be my problem but the engine in my car was most probably out when the turbo's were upgraded in Japan. So I suppose it's a possibility.

Another thing that comes to mind is when the car was over 100 degress and I had the heater going full blast to try to cool the engine, I recall now that the air coming out of it wasn't exactly hot. I mean it was warmish, but you think it would be almost scorching. But then again maybe cos it was already so bloody hot on the day that the temperature difference between ambient and air from the heater just didn't feel that great.

Anyway, what's the best way to do some flow testing without the thermostat always closing when you keep introducing cold water?
Or do I need to remove it?

Ben