I picked up this set of rotors from another like minded gentleman, in the area of weight reduction. These rotors come from Coleman Racing and are a 2pc custom design. The diameter is 1mm smaller than stock rotors and the center in aluminum for maximum weight reduction. These tip the scales at just under 10lbs, which make it the lightest performance rotor that I've ever seen. I opted to throw in some SS lines all around and Hawk HPS in front and Hawk Blacks in the rear. I think this will be a great balance. I think we the addition of the Racing Blue fluid and the brake master cylinder brace. This is a good combination for me. Before pics. And yes I shaved the Nissan lettering. Looks nice IMO. And the new rotors installed. And just for sh*ts and giggles, here is a pic of the engine so far.
Some more. Using dry ice and chizeling it away is the easy part. The hard part comes on the cleanup of the last tar residue. This is a combination of suck azz and PITA. This took a lot of time. Ended up taking a little more but not much, I think 3lbs all together. Hey...it all adds up. This was how it looked after the dry ice. Lots of residue afterwards. The new scale that I just picked up. Accurate to .01 of a pound. What I pulled out of just the left wheel house and 2 bose enclousers brackets that I cut off since I no longer need them. Lots of cleaning up and lots of pics. Some Battery thru panels that I picked up to run the battery relocation to the rear. These are super cheap and will make for a very clean look after everything. I highly recommend them. This is a custom Optima battery bracket that I picked up a while back. I am just make shifting it for the time being. I plan on mounting it in the right rear of the vehicle to balance out weight. And finally the layout for the seam welding for the rear cargo area. Plan on doing the floors in the front as well. When the roll cage goes in, which will be tied into both A pillars and the B pillars as well with gussets. Combine it all with all the bracing available in the Z market and then structure foam injection. I think all together this will give the Z slicktop one of the stiffest bodies that I've even seen.
Some more pics. I purchased 2 battery thru panel posts to simplify and make for a cleaner look for the battery relocation to the back of the car. These post are insulated to allow for a safe current pass through in a panel. Longacre supplies them for a very cheap cost. You normally find these on a lot of all out race/track cars. I figured why not. I was already going to remove the dash to see if I could cut off a few extra brackets under the dash that used to hold the AC and heater compnents. So after pulling the dash, I simply used a punch to set my drill point and then used a 2 part drill and circular saw to cut the size whole I needed. Pretty simple. The dash being out made this a piece of cake. Installed. View from engine bay. Installed, View from interior of firewall. Pretty much spent the rest of the day cutting out brackets and removing the last portions of sound deadening material left under the cash. Not big items but a lot of small brackets, bolts and little details that I ended up either cutting out the car or simply removing. For example all the protruding screws for the firewall sound deadeing/brackets on the dash bar for the AC support brackets/useless zipties/etc. Pic of interior stripped w/dash gone. Threw it all in a bag to see if I actually did some weight reduction worth my 3 hours spent in the garage today. Was suprised to see that I removed another 4lbs 4ozs. For sh*ts and giggles I removed the passenger foot bracing for the ECU and other electronic components as I plan on making a custom cover for it to replace the sad looking wood one that come from the factory. Might go CF or maybe just a piece of sheet metal with impressioned holes to strengthen it up. Haven't decided. Threw it on the scale to see what it weighs. Was suprised it came in at 2lbs even. I'll see if I can shave a few ounces of it somehow and then give it a once over with a base of flat black with my paint gun.
Really? Did I post all of these pics already? I just did the thru panel posts on Saturday. And I looked and haven't been on in a while.
I assume to get a really good earth direct to the engine block. Going soley via the chassis would suck. Cheers Tim
Why? Running a wire from the boot to the engine block would have more resistance then using the chassis as the earth. As long as you earth it solid at both ends
I have just installed a Longacre through panel, but only the one for posative. I did install a negative cable back to the battery but I just used a normal bolt through the firewall using the firewall as another earth point. What a pain in the ass it was getting to the firewall on the inside! Ben
i just went behind the fender for 10cm then there is an opening where the main harness goes on the drivers side...
Thought about that too but just didn't like the idea of a wire possibly rubbing on a edge and getting exposed. Exposure leads to corrosion, corrosion leads to the darkside....i'll have to loose a hand....it would be a mess. Do it the right way and save the empire, is my thought. Thanks for the replies gentleman.
Bloody hell! I can't imagine how long this project is gonna take..lol.. Good work though, obviously doing a very thorough job :zlove:
