Removing viscous engine fan

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Mitch, Oct 26, 2008.

  1. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Exactly, radiator could be full of icy cold water and the termostat still won't let it run through your engine below normal operating temps.

    I also wonder how a lower CFM thermo fan (albeit drawing air through a more efficient radiator) is any different to the OEM fan running constantly (even on a reduced cycle)?
     
  2. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Ditto!
     
  3. WOKBURNER

    WOKBURNER Bringer of fun and mayhem

    Not an issue if done right!!!! Back up important!!!

     
  4. Mitch

    Mitch Has one gear: GO

    Yeah, the whole redundant circuitry is beyond me, but i have a mate that is powering thru an electrical engineering degree who loves that sort of stuff, so i'm going to commission him to design a gadget that will integrate a few things such as a over-temp (AKA TWD) warning, fan control and failure LED, and backup power circuit.
    Combined with an aftermarket temp gauge, this should be bulletproof in combating overheating.
     
  5. bluecube

    bluecube Senior member

     
  6. bluecube

    bluecube Senior member

    Hey Mitch,

    Got any updates for us? I'm keen to see how it goes!
     
  7. AndyMac

    AndyMac Better than you

    Well no, the thermostat isn't fully open until operating temps, but it starts to open much lower. I'm not 100% whether mine is stock, but I have hot water flowing through the radiator from about 50 degrees and up. Not as much flow as at 80 degrees, but it starts to flow through at around the 130 degree farenheight mark on the guage. So with that in mind, a thermo on 100% would keep it cooler than desired temperatures.
     
  8. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member


    Well look at me back then thinking I had it sussed :rofl:

    In case anyone searches & finds this thread & thinks about putting on an E fan DO NOT DO IT!!!

    Although I was able to get away with it for normal road use it just wont do the job once you start to lean on things a little bit.

    Standard fan and clutch with the full factory shroud is the way to go - unless show car or similar. I stall hate the space consumed by the factory windmill but it's a must if you want to be able to use your car to its full potential.

    I found while at the track the car was getting hot after only a few laps with the e fan and full shroud, I pulled these off in the pits and went back to just the stock fan and clutch and found it ran perfectly with no temp issues. I have since fitted the stock shroud as well & will never go back - unless maybe for just that last little nano second at the drags......

    So to clarify - in 2008 I said it could be done & that others who had tried & failed was likely installer error.

    In 2014 I'm saying you can't do it & get the same cooling as stock, e fans just wont do it.
     

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