Now the temp guage reads in Farenheit not Celsius. I live on the mid-north coast nsw and temperature at lunch time was in the mid 30's and i drove the car for the 1st time in a week or 2. It was about an half hour drive there and back i would say. All started good with temps running around 180 Farenheit just cruisin and only giving it a bit of stick (boost) here and there. Temps rose a bit up to 200 . which in Celsius is equal to a pubic hair under 95 Celsius Im so PARANOID on the temperature after i all but cooked the motor 3 years ago in which i had to out lay a lot of $ to get it repaired. I have no leaks anywhere and the Spal S-Blade thermo is working fine. Radiator was all checked at nat-rad I only just put the Spash guard under the front, back on and that seemed to help b4 to bring temp down a bit. I do have FMIC,T-Smart BOV's,T-Boost cntrl and no i havent moved the oil cooler to where SMIC were as yet. Would my standard front bar be blocking air flow to radiator ? [/IMG] As i am replacing front bar straight after the New Year to a D-Speed bar with a few more openings for air flow. [/IMG] Any suggestions would be be much appreciated
temp 95 degree's celcius water temp, on a 35+ degree day is not unusual. But you must check that your water temp gauge is accurate... I know for a fact (proven with datascan) that my autometer water temp gauge reads about 4 degree's lower than what datascan reads.... so if your gauge is also a little out, then 95 degree's could well be 98-100 degree's, which is getting a little too close for comfort... Cheers
I checked my Autometer gauge with a Techtom over the period of a couple of weeks and found it to be very accurate, although it dropped a little slower than the actual temp. I put that down to a delay in the gauge and it didn't bother me.
maybe... you have a higher priced gauge pete, who knows.. But my gauge, with the sender in the top radiator hose, properley grounded to the chassis via wire, has consistantly read 4 degree's lower than what datascan displays.... so either datascan and the stock sender is inaccurate, or my autometer sender / gauge is inaccurate... doesnt bother me, because I have learnt where the "normal" position for the needle to sit is, and its not that hard to add 4 degree's to whatever the gauge is displaying.. Cheers
Ok, it "could" all depend on your thermostat when it opens etc, it could be a hot thermostat ie for japan conditions. Have u seen the open temp of the thermo? Could try putting a lower opening temp thermo in. Just a thought, i understand when the temp rises so does the stress lol
My new Saber temp gauge is installed in the upper radiator pipe and reads 3 or 4 degrees lower than the ECU readout. I know this because the Saber gauge reads 92 degrees when the TWD kicks in at 95 degrees (It did this on Saturday after I turned off the car and heat sink did its job). Although while driving around the temp was sitting on low to mid 80 degree range. Nissan designed the thermo fan to kick in at 105 degrees so I expect it shouldn't be a problem with regard to your temp of 95 - 98 degrees while driving around, assuming your coolant hoses and rad cap can handle the higher pressure. also assuming your temp doesn't continue to climb, especially once the thermo fan kicks in. A recent post gave all the various temps that the themo fan kicks in and out depending on the speed of the car and whether air con is on or off.
The problem with gauge sender units in an alloy block located in the top hose, is that the sender is 1) Isolated from the engine in so far as with stock location the hard-pipe is bolted to the motor therefore directly conduction motor heat as well as heat from the coolant, and 2) the Ram air effect will artificially cool the sender block. I find similar results with my aftermarket gauge which is located in an allow sender block. In traffic, my A/market gauge track nearly exactly with datascan. On the Highway when more air is circulating under the bonnet, it's always about 3 degrees lower than datascan. EDIT: Consider a vented nose panel, they do wonders to help get more air in
I do have a twin vented nose panel being fitted with wide arches etc at the start of jan 2008. my thermo has a piece running into top hose with the adjustment knob (for adjusting the temp as to when thermo cuts in) but im sure the phantom temp guage's sender is in top of w/pump I will have a look at tech section for correct temp for when thermo should be cutting in. So 95 EDIT Celcius is bad running temps ! i would love it to be at 180 farenheit all the time if possible ? Im going to try putting lower fan shroud back on (with the Spal thermo) and see if that helps in any way !
here's a pic or two of the thermo control + sender on w/pump i was talking about .[/IMG] [/IMG] i cant see any problems there ! but i know Sweet F.A and thats why i love this forum !
just replaced lower shroud ! will see how that goes ! + see if that drops the temps at all ! I will get it to run cooler one day ! some way ! :bash:
