done when pulling the engine, the question is, should i leave the 5 speed in place and just unbolt the bell housing from the engine, or is it quicker to drop the box.With other engines I've pulled, I've left the box in.
Ok thanks I'll try and make myself a bit clearer. Is there any reason why the engine cannot be removed by just sliding the shaft out off the gearbox, and sliding it back into the box when the time comes to re-install the engine.
You will have a very hard time getting the spiggot out of the clutch with the rear gearbox mount still attached. There is very limited space to move the engine forward as the sump will hit on the cross memeber.
Thanks taz On other nissans I've had, the sump dose catch the cross member, but by unbolting one side of the cross member, it can be lowered enough to move the engine forward and away from the gearbox. The cross member is weilded on these cars, dam it!
The service manual says you can actually remove and replace the gearbox (5 speed only) bolted to the engine. I have put an engine and box bolted together back into a Zed and believe me was no easy feat getting over the cross member but it does go.
yeah i found dropping the box out was one of the easiest parts of the whole thing. took me about 15 mins
What did you use to get the top bolts on the bell housing out rolling? Started at two this arvo engine is ready to lift out, except for those top bolts on the housing. I'll have a better look tomorrow, play was called because off bad light
I left the box in place, had the car on stands and dropped the "K" frame/sub frame.....whatever you wanna call it so the sump would clear. Took me about 5 hrs to remove and the same to bolt back up.
I remove the gearbox rear mount and let the motor/gearbox assembley drop down low enough to get a extension bar, uni joint and another extension bar on with a breaker bar on the end of that Apparantly you can do it with a ring spanner too (according to AZA) The above is all done on a NA, not sure what it's like down there on a TT
14mm deep socket, 3/8 drive with a 3/8 uni-joint , at least a 18 inch extension and a ratchet or breaker bar on the end. get all the hard bolts at the top first, just leave an easy one in each side till its ready to come out
what rolling said. Main thing is to get an extension bar long enought to give you access from the rear of the gbox (straighter the bar on top of the bolt easier it is to undo). My main problem was finding someone with small enough hands to get the socket on top of the bolt as my bear claws had 'clearance issues'
yeah you need a fluffy haired apprentice as seen here http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266103
