This is shitting me big time , pretty much have new engine and everything else , just did oil/filter change to 10 / 40 mineral to see if helps lifters and general noisy engine .Also have very low oil Pressure. Got under the running Z and found that the oil cooler was dead cold and a very warm filter and sump , pulled the oil feeds to the cooler (you would expect oil everywhere but it was dead dry ) you can feel when it runs there is no oil flowing . The A/T cooler flows so hard the pipe vibrates . All the oil pipes are new , new oil pump , no blockages to be found . Where in the service manual is the oil circuit diagram ??? If I find these arsehole engineers have screwed me again and blocked an oil gallery or something I will go POSTAL !!!! I've had a gutfull , and want to go to Zed fest ,anyone have any clues ??
Oil cooler only flows when the oil reaches a certain pressure. Make sure the oil cooler is attached up right, maybe?
Not uncommon for OEM OPS to be blocked up from years of old accumulating deposits. If it was reading higher than 2 before the rebuild then it may indicacte a problem with the oil system, otherwise change the sensor.
When the motor was done up, were all the oil galleries cleaned out properly? There is really only one way to do this, remove the gallery blank off plugs, clean the galleries with a brush etc, fit screw in plugs. Do the same with the heads.
I think all of the welsh plugs were removed and it was acid bathed . I'll find the reciept to find out exactly. Ok Here is what they did to the block Crack test Crank Crank Straitness Polish Crank journals Bore cylinders Balance Crank Clean block and parts assemble and align pistons and conrods check oil pump replace welsh plug etc etc Heads Bead blast heads surface grind Reface valves reface valve seats Vavuum test valves assemble set valve height Blah Blah
Welsh plugs are for the coolant so thats not it. Might be worthwhile asking them if they did clean out all the oil galleries and if so how. Just flushing or blowing compressed air through them is not good enough.
Change your OPS or add an aftermarket gauge in case you have a real problem. When cruising on the highway you should be ~ 4 bar. When accelerating at high RPM you should see somewhere near 6 bar.
The plot thickens With a lot of swearing and tantrums that would put a 2 yo to shame I managed to get the oil filter bracket off. I found the oil pressure relief valve missing also the O ring on the tap is rock hard and falling apart , Is this suppose to be a rubber o ring ??? It makes me wonder what else the Engineers have pressed out in order to flush the oil gallies . I also drilled out the OPS , seemed to be a bit gunky but dont believe it's faulty . With all of this in mind , with the oil pressure relief valve missing it has to be a problem ehh . Also explains why the bypass to the oil cooler never opens , it opens under pressure not temperature by the look of it .
I went through the same thing.. check: http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1011710&forum=technical
Ah you are shitting me !!!!! Have a look at the Oil flowchart in the manual , does not make sense does it . ARRRRGGGGGGGG Did you have a Pressure problem too , If so what ????
nah, I just happened to notice that section of the manual while putting everything back together. My oil pressure sender was stuffed and I couldn't wait so chose to risk it.. I'm currently driving around in blissful ignorance of my oil pressure. I do have a digital temp gauge though so would notice any issues pretty early on.
Maybe the sump is dented , but looks ok to me a few scars on it and small dints no where near the pick up . has anyone ever pulled out the sump as per the service manual ?? Looks really scary
I wouldn't do anything before trying an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, I'm sure I've seen em for like $30.. you could get a new stock or VDO sender but then it could still be your gauge.
