I changed all coil pack electrical connectors the other day.The actual work was removing the existing electrical pins from broken/brittle connectors and placing into the new connectors. The existing electrical pins were not green/corroded. Post work car started and it idled nicely as checks were made to ensure removed fuel lines werent leaking. Switched it off packed up. An hour later went to go for a drive and its running on five cylinders with the front drivers side coil pack not firing. Now i doubt i got the wires crossed or it would not have run sweet post work. It appears a wire might be cracked or seperated, was ok warm but when cold not making contact. So now i will check if the voltage is getting through. Can anyone advise what the voltage is per wire for front drivers side coil pack starting from the front of the motor. Wire 1,wire 2,wire 3. Any other suggestions as to what might have occured. Obviously for testing purposes the car has been run on five cylinders. will this damage spark plug or coil pack. What if i crossed the wires would the coil pack be affected. Regards Bruce
Metal expands when hot so could it be that it is not making a clean connection when cold so may need to close pins closer together in order to have better contact, real simple but probably better place to start as its quick and easy, unlike most things with the zed, also you could try switching it to another cylinder and see if it does the same there, this will ensure it is the coilpack connector not spark plug or wiring to the connector
Test the voltage on the working connectors, and compair! You would no pretty much right away if you had the wireing wrong, they would smoke then burn out. You can buy new connectors from coz ready to go for bugger all, and soilder them on, its quick and easy!
coil pack mate, did something very similar, have you checked your injector connectors, its very easy 2 disslodge them if your playing with the coil pack connectors dude!!
Thanks Beaver i will try the voltage method. I have new connectors. The pins were in good condition so reused them by releasing them from the existing plastic clips and inserting into the new plastic clips.The wire to pin join looked satisfactory but it could be broken within the plastic coating wire near the join from flexing the wire. We soldered the injector connectors and they are sweet as. Bruce.
Update. I have changed both the coilpack and spark plug from a working cylinder and still no go. I have used my multi meter and the values before and after the conecting pins on the suspect cylinder appear the same (but im no auto electrician). Moving forward is to replace the actual last 4cm of wiring with new wiring & connectors (x3) in case there is a break within the plastic wire casing. Apart from taking it to a an auto electrician can anyone advise what may be the cause/fault. I would rather find/fix myself with help from you guys. Thats how i can learn. regards Bruce
I have the Same problem on cylinder 5 i would be interested to know how this turns out! as im stuck for ideas and the car has been sitting in the garage for 2 weeks now
Just a little tip.......... If you need to limp the car somewhere to have it checked, disconnect the injector connector on the cylinder that isn't firing. That will stop you diluting your engine oil with fuel. Might also be an idea to check the PTU
hey mate im going through the same thing, i going to replace the connections going to the injectors because they are all green/coroded, and when i even move the wireing the revs change, let me know how you get on
I found my problem. Its was the injector wiring and not the coil pack wiring. What happened was we soldered the new wires to existing wire loom. Taped up each wire with electrical tape and slid the rubber grommet over the wires up to the back of the clip. When the rubber grommet was slid up the wires to grab the back of the new clip, the rubber grommet took some electrical tape with it and exposed both wires inside the rubber grommet. Because of the small amount of space within the grommet both wires were touching creating a short. There was still enough voltage getting through to make the injector click but not enough to spray as the spark plug from that cyclinnder was dry as. I intend to revisit all wiring that was resoldered, remove rubber grommet and electrical tape and apply heat shrink tubing and then reattach rubber grommet. Regards Bruce
To get around that problem, and to make it a bit neater, I offset the cuts ( one shorter/ one longer) so when they were soldered and taped up that couldnt happen ,and the join was smaller and neater, instead of on big lump
