speedo playing up, revisited

hi all,
last time I posted, i got some ideas on what the problem may be (gear box sender or instrument cluster).
I've connected a multi-meter to output of the sender unit from the gear box and verified it is in fact working.

So worst case is I have to replace what?
Is it the whole instrument panel or just a little magic box or a board or ....


thanks
mal

 

Before you replace things.....>>

Try resoldering the connections on the back of the speedo, it could just be dry joints.

 

worst case what would I have to replace, thanks?

 

Replace: Should only be the speedo mechanism

if that's actually faulty but I don't like your chances of getting just that bit. Usually the whole instrument cluster is sold as one.

But as Wykked said, I'm sure you can get the speed repaired. Would be a hell of a lot cheaper...

 

How many connections to re-solder... (I've got Speedo issues too)

Mal, what are your symptoms?

From what I've been able to gather from other posts, my problem is probably right behind the speedo. It seems to cut in and out fairly irregularly, however the problem doesn't affect anything else. Tacho, ODO, trip-meter, power-steering etc. all work fine.

Guess I'll try and find some time this weekend to re-solder connections. Can anyone give me an idea of just how many connections there will be to be soldered?

Thanks
Shihong

 

Look in Search for an article by ZCar91 (n/m)

 

If you do decide to buy a new cluster.....>>

I found this one on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=32063&item=4558264848&rd=1

It is currently sitting at 99 cents, but that could go up.:LOL:

 

Soldering speedo

There is a small circuit board about 25mm X 50mm, located inside the rear of the speedo unit, and you need to re-solder every joint on that board. Take your time and be very careful not to make any mistakes (such as "bridging" across contacts).

 

How can I stop my oem speedo from going ''off the clock'' ?

 

Thats always a problem lol

:thumbsup:

 

symptons include:

speedo dropping to zero
- no assisted steering when this occurs, noticable @
low speed

speedo sits at a speed e.g. 80Km/H or 150Km/H or some
other speed *it* chooses

Datascan reports the same speed as the speedo

mal

 

thanks all :thumbsup:

 

fixed outcomes and problems encountered listed FYI

Hi all,
I finally got around to doing this, below is what I found, hope it helps some one else. I did take photos but I am feeling lazy... After doing some searching just now there seems a heap of info available on this topic, shame none of its in the tech section. Last of all I'm back posting so the info is contained in its original thread.

Duration - 5 hours, 1 of those was for soldering the board. 4 were due to stuffing around

Tools:
+ patience
+ assorted screw drivers(including a jewlers screwdriver)
+ soldering station and iron
+ copper braid to absorb the old solder (can't remember the name of the product), seems a gentler way of doing it rather than a solder sucker. You heat the braid and it obsorbs the solder from the board
+ some one who uses a soldering iron for a living, other wise I suspect you will fry a component or two on the cicuit board

Instructions:
How to Pull Out Your Instrument Cluster
+ resolder all points on back of speedo circuit board
+ might want to look at this thread, I only found it after the fact

advice on components to replace when soldering speedo circuit

Outcome:
1. Speedo is working, well 2 weeks so far any ways, will post if it fails. I didn't actually expect this to work being a natural sceptic and all. But upon inspection of the speedo circuit board there were indeed some poor joints and 1 leg that had no solder on it at all. We still re-soldered the whole lot though just to be sure.
2. Cleaned the odometer, which had a suprising amount of grit in it. Now when I press the reset button I don't need a degree in pain management.

Problems:
1. rhs pod had extra wires without connectors, took a while to take the plunge and cut and add connectors, we first tried dissassembling, waste of time.
2. lhs pod - came off easily
3. taking the plastic trim off(or rotating) surrounding the speedo cluster was challenging, we removed way more stuff than necessary. As it turns out you can just stick your fingers underneath the trim on either side of the steering column and give it a gentle pull and the two clips holding it in let go. I chose to rotoate it to the side as getting it off looked like another challenge
4. There is a connector on top of the cluster that was also challenging to remove, turned out sticking a screw driver (jewlers) in the front of the clip between clip bracket and clip allowed the clips mechanism to be disengaged hence allowing the clip to slide off.
5. Putting the lhs pod back in proved to take some time in rembering how the bracket holding the hazard light switch in was situated.

mal

 

Yeah But

you said your zed also lost power steering ... surely the soldering job didnt fix the power steering Mal ???

The reason i ask is because my Zed does exactly the same thing .I had my steering rack replaced(leaks) under warranty .And now it does exactly what yours did.My speedo and steering work fine when i first start to drive .Then after about 3 or 4 minutes speedo drops to zero and power steering goes ...

Hey chilli wheres ya soldering iron lol

Paul

 

Z-ster where are you mate... your the guru

For a small fee i don't know if there is nothing
Z-ster can't do with a speedo... also i've seen his garage workshop and he has more techno gadgets for electronic things then tools. Don't wanna swamp the guy but must say i was very happy with my results.
Adrian

 

Speedo provides a signal for the P/Steering, no sig...no steer.

OK Cookie Boy??:LOL::LOL:

 

Coffee

and a muffin chills ??? say 10:30

 

Good one Paul >>

you know your goner get "Dough Boy" the moment you mentioned, muffin & coffee.:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Cheers
Kerry

 

Swallowing your sandshoes again I see, gotta give that up Bro.:LOL:

 

He seems to have it all sorted out, well done. :thumbsup: