After the last visit to the servo I was running on empty with the fuel warning light on. After filling up to a full tank, the fuel light is still on. It is draining the battery overnight and makes it dead flat. Could it be something as simple as fuel level checker has gotten stuck on a close to empty tank? Any suggestions?
extra light details Its when the car is on accessories+ with lights/fogs on so the dash lights are lit up. When the powers cut, it turns off along with all dash lights.
first time for the fuel light Also, this is the first time I've let it get down to fuel warning light stage. The power drain is huge, making the battery completley flat in around 8 hours. Is there something fuel related that will keep going if the car thinks its nearly empty when the powers off?
I suspect that the timing of the low fuel/fuel sensor problem and the drain on the battery is coincidental. I would suggest measuring the current from the battery whilst removing individual fuses to try and isolate the circuit that is using power. Also have you installed any new components requiring power or changed any electrical circuit prior to the problem?
Freaky.... The exact same thing happended to me yesterday and it is still on.... Maybe it has something to do with paying 129.3 cents per litre :angry::angry: BTW, does anyone know how to fix it?
checking the fuses for fuel light Nice zed RedTT, I've found the fuse translation at last (thanks tech support) and will post what my problem was when its sorted out. Thanks for the suggestions PTR, fingers crossed. *puts on the miner's cap*
Easy fixed >>> The low level light sensor is a small float switch [about the size of a cigarette butt], clipped to base of fuel pump, in the tank. It has 3 tiny holes top & bottom. If the holes are clogged the light may stay ON. Remove FP from tank, unclip sensor/switch & clean.
Awesome news Thats good news, thanks K-zed. I'll do that. Starting to take a real liking to forums. Even got around to putting in a ciggerete lighter fuse too. :thumbsup:
Fun but is it fixed? Thats kinda a hard job for a beginner like myself. Did what I could and appears good. Dont know if its stopped the power drain though. :unsure:
Re: Fun but is it fixed? I don't think its related to the power drain. My battery seems fine. Good work on fixing it though. Might have to try it this weekend.
Square 1 Oh well, least thats one thing outa the way. Guess I'll just disconnect this battery for tonight just incase and find myself a battery current tester seeing it wasn't fuses. Thanks all involved. Knowlege will give me power! :thumbsup:
Re: battery drain Get your battery tested as even a small drain on a near-stuffed battery will flatten it overnight. Well done
problem found Tested the battery, measured a 11.5v with terminals connected and disconnected when the standard is about 12.6. Is it safe to do a test while the car is running to see if it goes up to be positive its the alternator? also Is getting under the car at the the eaisest way to test the altenator? Batterys under warranty still if it aint.
Checking Alternator You don't need to get to the alternator to see what it is putting out. Just measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running at about 1500 RPM. :thumbsup:
If the battery is at 11.5v... It could mean any number of things. Have you checked the fluid level? If it's low top up with distilled water and make sure all of your caps are tight. This is a good preliminary thing if you haven't already done it. As for your battery problem, it could be alt, or it could be something discharging the battery, or it could be that the battery is losing voltage of it's own accord and it needs replacing. So to eliminate some of these -Start the car and test the voltage across the terminals at idle, at idle with high beams on, and at 1500 rpms with lights on. Anything less than 13.5v is inadequate. Anything more than 15 is way too high in fact anything above 14.5 I would be wary of over charging (symptoms include carbon deposits on the cell caps, excessive acid discharge, "rotten egg" smell). -Who is the warranty with? I work for NRMA batteries and if a customer is having trouble with a battery we have to go out and test it quite thoroughly to determine if it's faulty. If you're able to i would get the supplier to test the battery. If you want to test it yourself you can put a meter on the battery and then try to start the car. A fully charged battery (ie 12.6v -so maybe jump start and take for a drive first then test prior to starting) shouldn't drop below 9-10v, if it does this may indicate a problem in which case definately contact your battery supplier. That said it may still have a problem even if it passes this test but at least you can do this at home with minimal equipment. -Check for current draw. To do this you have to switch your meter to Ohms (so you're measuring current) and with the car off, ignition off, all doors closed so absoloutely nothing in the car should be on put your positive lead on the negative terminal and the lead on your negative battery post. Then remove the negative terminal so you are measuring the current flow from the terminal to the battery, hence the amount of current being drawn through the system when there should be very little. You can then start removing fuese to see where this drops. You can also get this done at an auto electrician using an induct ive ohms meter (ie no removing terminals it just measures current passing through wires). Anyway I hope this helps. I would strongly suggest contacting the supplier of your battery first if it is still covered by warranty. By trying to do all of these tests yourself you may be giving them a reason not to honour the warranty.
new power info Thanks fer that, the battery power jumps to 13.75 then drops .01 per second once they car is at idle 800rpm. When you jump back up around 1500rpm is re-charges it to 13.75 again. So the alternator works, but the battery appears to be not keeping charge. I hope so, or theres a large power drain while the cars running at idle. Pulling apart half the car trying to sort out power loss teaches ya alot.
There can't be a drain at idle As the car is running off the alternator. What is your charging at idle? Did you try with lights on? Also remember to turn on stereo etc
Get battery load-tested If under warranty & faulty you'll get a pro-rata replacement. If the battery has been flattened several times already, it's prolly stuffed. The Century NS70LX is built for high temp operation.
