Hey zedders any help would be much appreciated!! Car has recoed Turbos New Larger FMIC HKS BLow off / HKS Pod HKS Cat Bak - larger front Pipes Manual controller at 12-14psi stock internals and ecu. Car just Dynoed at 144.5 rwkw the dyno also showed the thing to be running too rich off the scale.. :wacko: Any help on how we can fix this?? maybe a vacume / boost leak test?? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
That figure doesn't sound too much off the mark The IG-GTE in stock form puts out 157Kws at the flywheel so with a 25-30% drive train loss that would be around 110- 117rwkws. With the few mods you have 144.5rwkws sounds about right.
Cheers for the comments... but its still much much too ritch!! aLSO, upon looken at the dyno sheet... at the peak power the boost goes flat at 10.. where as just before its up around 12-14... MOrpower in adel did the dyno Run and they believ it could need a fuel rail regulator.. but it be better to make sure everything is fine before investing in that setup... Any more takers??? :LOL:
First place I would start is the AFM. It might take a bit of fiddling but should help. The other option is to try an after market ECU. That should also hopefully get you a few more kilowatts as well.
hey man, my GZ20 has a 1g-GTE These motors run very very rich outta the factory, with retarded ignition timing too. WIthout an aftermarket ECU, ur really limited to what u can do to cure the rich running, u could do what i did. I tightened the spring on the AFM, so the ECU sees less air than what is actually going in, thats leaned it out a bit (how much? i dunno, since i have no tool to measure AFR). Then i advanced timing 5 degrees (from 10 to 15), and makes much more power. BTW, u can run around 15.5psi on the standard turbos without hassles (iv got a stock frontmount and have been doin it for 2000km with no probs). WIth ur big FMIC u wont have any probs on 15psi. If its an auto, it sounds about right, maybe just a tad under what it should be doin. . . If its a manual, ur makin less power than what it should be.
UPDATE: 4 ENGNE LEAKS :LOL: Hey there i made up a cap with a tyre valve and bolted it after the AFM (TOOK IT OFF) and pumped 20 psi through her...:LOL: at 12 psi the BOV was leaking... at 15psi the inlet pipe to the turbos was leaking the new FMIC intake and outlet pipes were leaking also... It was fun i was pumping air through and spraying soapy water and.... BUBBLES>>> :sick: So im gonna seal up the BOV mount i made on the lower part of the FMIC pipe... and Make the connections more secure on the FMIC where it meets the inlet and outlet engine locations.. Hopefully the ritchness will cure and ill go way past 150 or so RWKW on stock ecu and turbos and internals.. Then im gonna re test for leaks and if thats clear re dyno and purchase a Haltech ECU.. that way no AFM and proper tuning at any boost?? Cheers.. ps any thaughts on if i need a new BOV?? the item im using is a HKS SSteal with no servicing parts...??? :embarrassed: Cheers FRank
