which metal pipe is it? All of the water pipes are accessible without removing the engine (some require the gearbox to be dropped and the plenum removed but that's the furthest you should have to go - unless it's right next to one of the banjo fittings bolted onto the turbos - maybe the copper crush washers have died on the banjo fittings).
The main issue is that the coolant in the overflow bottle is not being sucked back into the system when cold (from what I can see there is no blockage in the bottle itself). So basically its full and when the engine heats up and coolant moves to overflow bottle (which is already full) I think just ends up on the road. :wacko:
same problem i have the same problem but i cant see the coolant leak anywhere seems to be comming from the drivers side somewhere
Mark, there was at least one car you would have found interesting a Sigma similar to yours, but running Methanol through a 350cfm Carter carb and 11.5:1 compression. They tried to run it on the dyno, but tailshaft vibrations were severe enough for the organisers to refuse to allow it. Would have been interesting to see what sort of output it had. There were plenty of other clubs, but none made any effort at a display except to line their cars up in straight line, no themes. A big thank-you to the SA members, who hosted Baroo, ZXTT-1 and myself to dinner at the Holden Hill Hog's Breath Cafe. Great food, great company, and no sunburn!!!
Had a similiar problem... ...coolant flowing into the overflow when hot, but not flowing back into the radiator - no pressure in the hoses, etc. Ended up being a dodgy seal on the radiator cap. Swapped the cap, and all is well. Don't suppose your problem is that easily fixed.
Ebay - I went to New York on the puter - link inside maxspeed motorsports Stuckey Tyres have a similar product available locally, an open ended alloy nut which uses a standard socket instead of the in-hex socket mine need. These would be even lighter, available in red or blue anodised in the Nissan pitch, and cost was $120 the set. Mine cost about the same to land (bloody US postage rates!)
That would imply that the pipe from the radiator ... to the overflow is damaged or the radiator cap is faulty. That is assuming there is not a small leak elsewhere that would let air back in. There would be another small tell tale if this were the case.
Looking closer at the connection between the radiator cap (brand new) and the neck of the radiator I found that the cap wasn't locking on to the neck properly. Alas I cleaned up the neck, as had worn, and properly locked the cap on as this wasn't happening before. Now all I have to do is wait for the car too cool to see if thats the prob and refill with coolant and not air.
Keep a close eye on it. The radiator neck cannot be easily fixed once worn down. If it's the cap, thats an easy swap...otherwise it might be a re-co radiator as the solution...
Answers with pics inside The leaky pipe is the Ø18mm one directly above the rusty water tell-tale on the gearbox. This has a neck that bolts at the back of the head, and then the smaller diameter pipe runnimg round the back of the head to just above the turbo. All such pipes at the back have been replaced in this pic. This is the buggered unit. In this pic the knife point is sitting just inside the pinhole. Such a little hole it is .......... Anybody wanna buy a water pipe???
what do you think of the way the bends are made? my idea of non turbulent flow is a 90degree bend with a larger radius.like the plumbing on the power steering pump i intend to have a closer look at that also.
So if ltd was there, how come he didn't win .... fartherst traveller? Surely he had a longer drive then you and Ben?
Lou would have been even further ... But neither Lou nor Pat drove there or had cars entered - they were passengers to and from Berri.
