I'm about to pull the engine out without the auto g/b attached and was wondering if you have to remove the steering input rod from the firewall to the power steering thingo. and does the starter have to come off? (It doesnt look like it)The rod looks awful close but it may pass by it and I have so many bits on the bench with my alxheimers 8-} Im unlikely to get it all back together. Any other tips would be very much appreciated regards Luig
I pull the engine out from underneath so can't help. What are you using to lift the engine out, endless chain thingy or engine crane?
I cant imagine how you manage to take it out underneath! Do you then lift the vehicle over the engine? Anyhow hows your rebuild going anyway, I take it from the photo that's what going on.}) I think I will pull the steering input rod out anyway....nothing worse than having to try to remove something jammed under a ton of metal when its about to fall on the floor. :s Luig
I had the car on jack stands and then using an engine crane I took the weight of the engine while I unbolted the front suspension. Once the suspension, engine and gearbox are lowered I put the engine crane on the car and lifted the front of the car up so I could wheel the complete assembly out using a trolley jack at the gearbox end. The steering shaft is easy enough to remove from memory.
Pulling the starter off is no big deal.... ...and come off very easily, unless you have not disconeccted the battery (Zapp!). Id imagine though that if the headers and turbos can fit the starter should be able to fit through also. As for keeping everything in order, get a large note pad and write down every single thing you do in a list, and if you have a digital camera take pictures of complex parts before dissassembly so you can see how the orientation is. When you have reached the stage of reassembly use your list and tick off every task done, this way you will lessen the chance of incorrect assembly. Another good trick is to have some empty cardboard boxs and draw the shape of parts on them, then stab holes where the fasteners go and put the bolts there. Another good habit is to just place the fasteners in order somewhere while you are removing a part and once removed put the fasteners back to their respective holes/studs, that way they cant go walkies when they are attached to something and you know exactly where they belong because they are already there. Hoses can be cleaned as soon as removed so that some masking tape can be stuck on both ends, and important info such as where it belongs and how it is orientated can be written on it. You can put tape where the hose came from also so you can remember what hose went where, I usually just use numbers(dont forget to remove the tape when re-installing or engine heat will bake it on permanently). Gaskits such as head gaskits should be photographed or drawn before full removal so orientation can be easily seen. If you are removing parts whose name you dont know, use making tape on them to put a number on and put the number in the dissassembly list. Small parts like screws, springs and ballbearings can be stored in a container with a lid, and for added security a magnet can be placed in there with them so that if spilled the parts cannot be lost. One last piece of advice, dont work to long at a time and take rest breaks, nothing can stuff up repairs quicker than getting tired and making mistakes or getting moody and losing patience, plus its when injuries are most likely. If something gets the better of you, your best off stopping till you feel most alert and patient, even if thats a day or two later
thanks Gazza you certainly have an orderly mind. I have used some of your techniques to some extent but mostly it's on the bench. You will probably get some "HELP" posts shortly asking your advice on where the stuff goes but thanks for your tips. I have used a video camera to record some of the more challenging stuff.regards John
Thanks Johnno I wasnt going to pull the engine but Chris (cbzx) who was at the track the other day said he took the heads of but if he had to do it again then he would pull the engine. He was right its just too difficult particularly on the drivers side :s Ive spent the best part of the day fitting a 3.5 metre steel tube in the ceiling to take the endless chain hoist :-0 so I can lift the engine tomorrow 8-} hopefully. Its a cow of a job loosening the bolts around the bell housing but I got there in the end. I think its all disconnected - soon find outregards John
