Is there some test I can do to see if the clutch master cylinder needs replacing? The clutch was leaking and being crummy so I replaced the slave cylinder but it hasn't entirely fixed it. Thinking it may be the master, or I've done a real poor job bleeding it.
Looks like the slave because it was oily as hell. When I took it off to replace it it was very squishy when compressed. It was definitely worn, whether it was the only issue though I'm not sure.
So you're still losing fluid? Pretty much only way to test is to look... Could be leaking out of the rubber lines, or the bleed line which runs down near the headlight.
Do a much better job Bleeding the system(Firstly, bleed the Master Cylinder). When you are sure that you have expelled ALL the air in the M/Cyl., move on to the Slave Cyl and repeat the procedure until you are sure it is also devoid of any air. Close-off the Bleed Nipple and test the success(or lack there-of)until you are satisfied with the result. Be very sure that you don't allow the Clutch Pedal to lift from the floor until the Bleed Nipple has been locked shut!
Why do you say it isn't fixed? Is the fluid level still going down? Or is the clutch not disengaging fully? If it's the first you need to find the other leak. If it's the second then you need to have another go at bleeding, most likely the front bleed point.
Is there a separate procedure for bleeding the master cylinder? It's not disengaging fully. Mines a manual conversion and the person who did it didn't put the second bleed point on it. I'll give it another bleed and hope for the best
Bleeding the clutch is a pain at best. Some clutches refuse to give up all little air bubbles no matter what you do.
Always change Master AND slave cylinder ....... If master or slave cylinders pack up you should always replace both of them. When one goes the other is never far behind You should also take the opportunity to fit a SS braided clutch line and bypass the PITA oem clutch line garbage
Test: Is it the original 25yo. part? If yes - rebuild/replace. Seriously though, if the slave is worn out and leaking the master is probably in a similar condition. The master cyl has a habit of leaking down the firewall on the inside though if it is a non-boosted one. Look around the firewall for potential leaks both inside and outside.
Just FYI, the correct bleeding procedure is: 1. Slave cylinder 2. Behind headlight bleed point 3. Master cylinder Obviously also follow the lines to make sure there aren't more leaks along the way.
They don't all have it. Grab yourself a braided line before you change the m/c, you might solve your problem and save some $$
Get the SS clutch line custom made ..... at a brake place, have them make it with the acorn type fitting that screws straight into the slave cylinder. Don't buy one of those sh@tty mass produced lines with the banjo bolt fitting that goes onto the slave cylinder If you get stuck PM me and I'll have a look around and find the exact specs I used when I had mine made up (many years ago) p.s fitting the SS clutch line makes bleeding the clutch a 2 minute job
