Hey Guys. Has anyone had experiance with these? https://conceptzperformance.com/ep-...oner-assembly-90-96-z32-13070-epr_p_25619.php Whats the Pros/Cons? Interested to get peoples thoughts. Cheers Col
I think a solid tensioner is a great idea, particularly for those with big cams and stiff springs. Or a tensioner with heavier fluid.
Thanks Mike. Yeah I was thinking along the same line, my tensioner seems to be shagged and am getting some belt flutter. But in saying that, I'm sure there are plenty of people out their with big cams, hard springs useing atandard tensioners.
Yes there are plenty (me included). The tensioner is on the longest belt run, wrapping the belt further around the exhaust gear. The tensioner is working to keep the belt tight against the engine rotation trying to straighten the belt. Big power means more force against the hydrolics, colapsing the tensioner, increasing the chance of the belt jumping teeth off that exhaust gear. That is how I sees it.
yes and happy with it . my springs are about 75lb and my jun cams aren't that big (with stock base circle) if I had heavier springs with solid cams I'd look at it . everything runs smooth and the cams snapping was that cam gear as far as I'm concerned .
I am running Solid Cams and heavy-ish springs so I made my own ... drilled and tapped the tensioner housing, ran a M8 bolt up behind the spring/plunger. Make sure the bolt is long enough to have a locking nut. Here is a picture of it in situ ... not a very good one but you get the idea.
Thanks for the comments guys,can anyone see any negatives ? Lostsoul: that's a great and simple idea, good call
Modifying the factory unit is ok and does work but is not well suited for HD applications. There are a few points to the factory parts that don't work well and while they may work for some I can assure you that having a more robust setup is definitely needed over the factory piece. Factory tensioners use a very small diameter pin set and swing arm to set tension to the belt. The pin set is offset to the swing arm in such a way that it does not make full contact to the contact face of the OE swing arm. This offset can and will result in undo stress to the contact face area cause it to crack/break off and ruining your engine. The stock hydraulic tensioner portion that carries the pin set is spring and oil dampened and while its worked ok in the past for many it simply can not keep up with the demands for the bigger performance applications in use today. The body of the tensioner is also cast which I've seen crack and leak as well. Cast unit like that isn't well suited for such abuse. My version uses a full billet replacement pin set body with an enlarged pin for total control. You set the tension and then lock it into place using a set screw. The swing arm in my version is also over double the width to ensure the new larger pin set makes the most contact and better line control than what a factory unit can offer. This is the only true solid adjustable tensioner on the market. I've installed these on a few assemblies I've built for clients and its remarkably easy to fit. I've many of these all over the world to different clients and all reporting back its such a stronger better functioning fit. If you were to compare my offering to a stock unit you'd notice immediately how inferior the factory unit is in comparison. As we increase our efforts to make and produce more hp and tq everything else within the system will need to be addressed as well. Having the control over your line pressure to the timing belt is now a reality of which we had no ability before. If anyone here has questions please feel free to PM or email me. Thanks! Here is the last VG I built for a client that I fitted my tensioner to. comparison pics My tensioner body and pin set up against the factory swing arm Here is the new solid with my larger faced swing arm.
