So I ruined a brand new tensioner damper last week. Slipped out of the vice and squirted a bit of oil... and now isn't damping until half way. I can see the oil can be refilled from the lower grub screw. So I added a bit however getting the right amount is a challenge. Too much and it will hydraulic lock and too little and will not dampen. I'm not sure how nissan set it from factory. I'm assuming the fill to the top at full compression, relax the spring then close the fill port? I will try it tomorrow, but failing that... I'll need advice. Doesn't anyone have any access to Nissans technical drawings or a spec sheet? Classified top secret? Cheers.
For the damage it will do if it fails because your repair didn't work JUST BUY A NEW ONE. If you have no idea how much oil to put in there you wont know the spec of the oil either and that will be critical to it's correct operation. A failed/failing tensioner will result in a slipped belt and very likely a destroyed engine. BUY A NEW ONE.
Not if u are the cause of the failure. I'm with mungyz, just get a new one. trying to find the correct viscosity oil and the correct procedure to refill it, and assuming you then get it right, isn't worth the cost of a new engine.
well, I did get another crusty old one... I wanted to get a new one but aparently the original nissan one i have is 'fine'... however it has rust all over the piston and brown slime over the seal. I have heaps of damper oil. I was probably going to go with an 800w. I'd rather take my chances with my new one refilled than a crusty old one... All i need is the specs.
I'm going to suggest if you had a brand new tensioner in a vice and managed to make it somehow slip out of the vice and somehow let oil escape from inside the brand new tensioner that you need more than the specs. Perhaps start with the maintenance manual - maybe you will see it was a bad idea having the tensioner in a vice to start with.
lol if you read the manual... you would see that it tells you to put it in the vice. should of gone to spec savers My vice wasn't bolted down, plus its a half round shape and difficult to grip... thats why it slipped.
FFS So you are saying your brand new tensioner was incorrectly adjusted are you??? I've installed dozens and NEVER needed to adjust one EVER in a vice from brand new. The whole point of the bolt is so the tensioner can be adjusted and remain in that adjustment, the factory does this when they produce the tensioner. Good luck with your car.
FFFFFS mate I did not say that...read it again. I come here for technical advise, not to argue. And you can't even give me basic advise thats even remotely correct. Page EM-16: I will say that these new cylinders can come separately... unless you want to spend 200 bucks on a new assembly. Again, you still need to set the clearance. The 'refurbished' unit i picked up yesterday was set to zero. Woopde doo. Setting this clearance is a normal part of this job. If you've never done this, I hope I don't buy your engines. After directly comparing 'ruined' new vs 'refurbished' old, you can see it doesn't even extend all the way. I added as much oil to remove any air bubbles and is now working perfectly. Double checked it wasn't hydraulic locking so all is good in the world.
ok guys settle down. bobbs, Mungyz has built plenty of motors and does know what he is talking about. I was going to suggest if your tensioner piston is damaged then replace with a new unit. Approx $65. This is one component you DON"T want to fail at ANY time. A skipped tooth or two on your timing belt and your up for either a replacement motor or an expensive rebuild. I can't understand how your new dampener could loose oil. Just replace it.
Thanks but mine is now working perfectly. If I have any more trouble with leaking seals, I'll replace with OEM.
I originally thought I had blown the seals when it first flew out of the vise. However, only a little bit got past the seal, and I'm guessing sucked in a bit of air once the diaphragm relaxed. The surface finish on the cylinder is pristine. As I would expect as its less than 12 months old. I suspect the seal wasn't designed to have high oil pressure when it flys out the vise. OEM might be better, but the exact same scenario would happen if the belt snapped. I bet it wasn't designed for that as its not considered regular operating conditions. I have since set the timing and belt tension. I've also put it all back together. I doubt any oil will leak again. But I have the top covers off so I will be keeping an eye on it. If it leaks, I'll post it up here.
well, in 6 months, i'll remove it to inspect its oil level and that its still dampening at full extension. if all is good, others will be able save a few dollars if they encounter the same problem. Or if the part fails again, it can be a warning to others contemplating the same repair. plus if it fails, i will admit i was wrong. but if its fine then i get to say I told ya so
Do you realize if that fails, you may be looking for a new motor/rebuild? Sorry to say, I am with Mungyz on this one.
