Update Just had a mobile mechanic around to have a look and he said something isnt right so now i have to somehow get it to their shop. they will suck the fluid through the line and give it a full flush.
I'd say you've already flushed it putting 750mm through the slave cylinder. Has someone you know got a Mityvac hand vacuum pump like this one? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mityvac-...414262?hash=item2ee6f690f6:g:334AAOSwuTxV75yq Let's assume that the pipe in the engine bay is blocked & that's why you can't get the fluid to come out. Does the clutch plate engage & disengage when you operate the clutch? If it doesn't, then there is still air in the system.
Thanks guys I'm sitting at the front of the mechanics waiting for them to open right now. I got up early while it was dark and no traffic on the road. I had to turn the car off at every tragic light and pump the peddle 20 times to build up enough pressure to get it in 3rd then slowly took off and moseyed my way down town. I didn't have access to one of those hand pumps which after looking at them seem like a good investment. I'll pay for labour this time as I need to get to the airport in a few days, but after this I'll teach myself how to nail it from start to finish for the next time. I'll report back soon
It's been a while, but wasn't there an off the shelf braided line for this purpose? I'm 99% sure that's what i used back in the day when I had to make the choice of f**king around with this bleeding procedure or bypassing it all.
Update Got the car back today Lines have been flushed and new fluid put in. Clutch is very heavy and I have to sometimes double clutch to open up first and reverse gear. Any idea why.?
Thanks that's perfect rob One question : the shop yesterday adjusted the arm coming out of the fire wall into the master. I'm not sure if they made it longer or shorter. Is that something that generally needs to be adjusted when fitting a new master ?
Yes it needs to be adjusted. That's exactly what the specialty Z article is talking about but a bit more involved than just adjusting the shaft out. If the clutch is a heavy duty with more clamp load than stock. You should definitely make sure they didn't just do a lazy adjustment which is shaft only. The actual neutral sensor needs to be adjusted out too to allow for more play / clutch pedal travel. I've made the mistake of not doing this in the past, your clutch being heavy is the same symptom as mine when I just put the new clutch in. It was much better after I did what the article said.
Did you change the clutch? If not, was the clutch heavy prior to changing the clutch master cylinder & slave cylinders? When they bled the air from the system, was it necessary to modify the hydraulic lines to a single line & dispense with the bleed line in the engine bay?
Clutch was replaced 10 thou ago with a heavy duty organic Exedy clutch. No the clutch felt perfect, smooth and was a breeze to use before I had this problem. No still running stock likes
The clutch can be hard if the one-way valve is faulty. Remove the valve & if there is a pressure release, the valves dead. You start the motor first & pump the clutch a couple times.