OK, I've read that most Zeds have the heater core bypassed. Even though I live in Canberra, this was OK in winter. What hurt was the mid-winter drive to Melb & back - nearly froze both times. So without pulling out the dash and trying to replumb the heating (as I couldn't be arsed), how would it be possible to get some switchable heat into the cabin? Any inspiration anyone?
+ plus one to that, or be prepared to eat lots of baked beans and refried chilli con carne and and endless lighter supply .
You can perhaps try some of those cheap ebay 12v 300w electric heaters, but they won't heat up your cabin! Only small area just in front of the blower...
Gotta love ebay - same item is $236 here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12v-VOLT...828352?hash=item1c339a34c0:g:1bwAAMXQO21RteDd yet $75 here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-WATT-EL...-Car-12-Volt-/231399862348?fromMakeTrack=true Looks like a kids toy microwave .....
Not sure where you've read that, but I think you may have confused the fact that the Heater Core is frequently faulty/corroded in cars that have NOT used the correct Coolant/Maintenance regime(and that many owners aren't motivated to repair/replace the item). Mitsubishi Mirage's also use the exact same Heater Core(and don't have a reputation for similar issues). Change the core, use the appropriate Coolant/Maintenance and never have another worry.
Read it here: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-330206.html Surely this is the ultimate forum of truth for Zeds? { At this point, can't find right emoticon - one with hands on both sides of head and wide eyes ... will try this } Looking at one of the other threads on bypassing, I'd pretty conclusively say that has been done, so it would require all the work to reinstate that - even before determining if the heater core is still there. Hence, I couldn't be arsed with a multi-hour/day job. However, some of the ideas above have helped, and whilst I won't be going for a huge four blower heater (probably for a truck), one of the others might be enough, and could probably be put in place in about an hour - maybe two in running an on.off switch near to the drivers seat somewhere. I not wrapped in having something poking out of the lighter socket forever ... Will tell you how it goes, as electrics and audio is my forte, rather than mechanical rebuild.
Bugger me... that heater will draw 25A. Make sure your battery / alternator is up to scratch. It will do a good job of draining the battery if you have it running without the engine on.
Be cheaper(and easier)to simply empty a bag of Heat Beads on the floor(preferably in a spot that doesn't interfere with the Brake Pedal/Accelerator).:bash::rofl::br:
The Heater Core Bypass requires the disconnection and reattaching of a short/easily accessible hose in the Engine bay/Firewall area takes all of 5/10 minutes for a Trained Chimpanzee(Possibly why I found it so easy to accomplish). :zlove:
Am I the only one that thinks it's god damn stupid to look at putting in an after market heater instead of fixing the one that came with the car?
No, I'm pretty sure there are more than a few people on this forum who are double-facepalming at this. OP, just fix your heatercore. Band-aid fixes are shite.
No! I would suggest that my input on this thread tends to indicate that I also see it as a nonsensical partial solution to a not altogether insurmountable "problem repair". Ranks alongside repairing a flat tyre by pushing Air into the valve with a toothpick(IMHO).:rolleyes2::br:
I agree guys. If it ain't broke don't fix it, but check it incase its about to break. In this case, it IS broke so fix the damn thing. (yes, Chili. I am aware of my grammar)
HA! HA! So now you can add Reading to your Skills List.:rofl::br: P.S. That should be Grammar.....Just sayin':bash:
I like your idea but how about just rubbing deep heat on your nuts and but cheeks :rofl: less mess on the floor