Okay so a few weeks ago I posted something trying to fix my idle issues and stuff. So I replaced a few things, and checked a few others and found out I had the wrong spark plugs. Ordered new ones from Z1 and put them in. GREAT! Fixed my problem! For about a week... So I was idling about 1300 when cold and down to 1000 when warm. Which was fine, kept the car from dying. So I tried to lower the RPM and it didnt really do anything. I could give the screw on it full turns and it didnt make a difference. Now the idle is lowering to 750ish, and it wont stay running without me constantly flipping the pedal. So Im thinking my IACV might be broken. Going to give it a resistance test today. If that doesnt help anyone got any better ideas? I have also developed a squeaking noise which I think is coming from my belts, may just be due to the fact that its getting cold outside and my car is 20 years old... Has anyone had any luck fixing the radios in these either? I pulled mine thinking it cant be that hard to fix, got it out and didnt really seem to have any problems. But my radio wont go to AM/FM, the unit just powers off immediately when you hit the power button. Theres a click that comes from the right of the car. The Cassette player used to work, but would still intermittently cause the radio to fail and power off. Sometimes it would eject immediately and sometimes it wouldnt power back on for several minutes. But when it finally did you just had to pop the cassette back in and it would work flawlessly for a little while. Then, my car has the CD player, and it used to work flawlessly, regardless of the radio acting up or not. But recently it pauses right in the middle of songs, every 10 seconds or so. The sound seems to cut out for about 2 seconds and then come back. Stange. Any advice with any of this is appreciated. Thanks again!
Okay so it was a nice day out today, so I ran out and started my car up. It was nice and warm outside, so my car started right up, no problems stuck right at 1k RPM's the entire time. So then I moved my idle down to 800 using the IACV screw which strangely worked this time. I concluded my car is just slightly cold natured and moved on. Now however the radio, which was my next item to do, was not so easy. I found a little box that seems to "click" every time it shuts off. Ill include pictures for anyone that thinks they can help. So when i click the power button, i hear a click coming from the passenger floorboard, and then some display buttons usually illuminate. Such as like the one that displays the radio wave frequency will be jibberish, or the cassette controls will all illuminate. Any help would be appreciated. I also saw a ground connector that was unhooked so i assumed it went with the screw (shown below) is this right? Wires (Shows that ground connector) Where i hooked it to The box I believe is making the clicking noise when the radio shuts down All the wires. Please note the ones that arent plugged in either go to my CD player or to the clock.
Now, if you had just asked "How long is a piece of string?", I could have answered that.... How about going to your local Car Audio Workshop(that would be the first line of inquiry if it was my car). Good Luck.
You need a solid ground or you will have problems as described The connector tends to come off when pulling on the stereo wires and so always needs to be checked prior when reinstalling the unit Given you have just attached the ground once again, does it work properly now?
I would love to know the length of string. Also, I'm afraid the cost of repairing, or getting it looked at would far outweigh the cost of just installing a new system If you're confirming that as the correct place for the ground wire, no, it still doesn't function correctly. I've gone through and unhooked each individual speaker to make sure it wasn't an AMP tripping out the circuit, and that also was not the problem. I've played with unhooking my antenna and things and nothing seems to help. Just guessing its something with that little box.
Is that a stock radio? I've never seen a ground wire installed on a head unit like that. The location on the chassis is correct, but in all of the aftermarket systems I have installed the ground wire is connected to the wiring harness on the head unit. Wiring diagrams are available HERE IN THE FSM
Yes it is the stock radio. The whole wiring looked like it had been tampered with, and the ground on the chassis was not connected to anything. So I saw that screw and figured that must be what it was for. I don't understand why there would be a ground connected to the chassis but not to anything else. But thanks for the manual, I'll take a look
Your IACV is probably just a bit sticky. Try taking the adjustment screw out and squirting some WD40 inside the body, this fixed mine. I think there is a spring and piston behind the adjustment screw so be careful when you pull it apart. Could also be a faulty connector which is common or the gasket between the plenum.
Im almost positive its the connector. Mine is broken and when i checked I hadnt gotten it on there perfectly tight. So when adjusted it this time i made sure to shove that booger on there... Thanks ill try that as well. Cant hurt anything
My advice would be to rip the whole sound system out and start again. Unlike the car itself (which is a classic, which is why we love it), after-market sound systems have come a long way in 25+ years. For a start, the speaker cones have probably decayed - the originals in mine were, as sun & heat certainly tends to do some damage in the back. As does time to paper/fibre cones. Many 6" models can replace the rears, and they even screw straight into the amp boxes. The front doors will need a little cutting to fit 6x9s. In both cases, the amps will need to be bypassed. Which really means you remove them. Same with the silly front speaker/amp that usually goes under the head unit - replace that with one of those cavity holders which can even store your mobile while you're driving ....
Okay so my current radio plans are to keep the stock speakers, and get a new head unit. I'm going to get a Pioneer MVH-X380BT Digital (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X380BT/Pioneer-MVH-X380BT.html?tp=5684) and thinking about getting 2 extra speakers from crutchfield and making a custom housing to go behind the seats in that holder thing. Which if i was going to do this I would need an external amp. Trying to make this a challenge I guess :bash::bash:. Would it be easier to remove all the amps from the stock radio, go with an aftermarket amp, and radio, but keep stock speakers? I'd really like to keep the stock speakers to avoid cutting
Reading up some more I have decided its best just to maybe look for a preamp radio like the original. I think it would be best to find a plug and play
Alright final decision I'm getting all new stuff. Does anyone know the speaker size for a 2+0 96 model?
The model number on your VIN plate indicates the Bose audio system was factory fitted to your vehicle. I'm not sure on what was fitted to US spec Z's, but there is a difference between the Bose rear speaker boxes fitted in the JDM 2.0 & 2+2 models. The 2+2 models will accommodate a 6" speaker without any issues. The 2.0 has a smaller triangular shaped speaker & the top of the box will require modification to house a 6" speaker. I've only seen the triangular speakers mounted in the Bose door boxes, but there may be differences. It would probably make sense to change the speakers if you are going to change the head unit. There may be aftermarket speakers available that will fit into the Bose boxes without any modification. Probably better to remove the Bose amplifiers from each box if changing to aftermarket speakers.
The rear speakers are easily seen by removing the cover, the trim will have to be removed to see the speakers mounted in the doors.
Practically any 6" will fit - well, they did in my 2.0. I tried out a few and surprisingly, the "best" sound did not come from the most expensive. In fact, the two with the largest magnets and deepest drivers did not give the best bass response. And for bass, the only way to go is with a subwoofer. For the rears, you want higher efficiency than the front, as your ear is further away and this can only be compensated for using the fader.
Probably would be easier to make a new thread at this point since this one is poorly titled and the OP doesnt include any info I'm looking for, BUT From searching all over the internet I should be able to get 6" in the doors comfortably and 6.5" is a stretch, and the back should be another 6". I'm removing the back to measure for myself today but I'm planning on waiting for my new speakers to come before I do the front so I don't have to remove the panels 2 times. Would 4 6" alpines be a good sound? Planning on a 4x14RMS (50Peak) Pioneer MVH-X380BT from Crutchfield. Also getting a antenna adapter and a Scosche CNN02 Wiring Interface. Along with some stereo connectors. Do I NEED to rewire the entire thing? Is there any parts that need to be routed through? I'm pulling all the amps and speakers and rewiring them to the new alpines using the stock wiring feeding to the stereo channels. Is there any parts I should be aware of, or any spots that are especially vulnerable that I need to rewire? If so what gauge wire would you recommend? Or should I just go ahead and rewire the entire thing while I have it out? Just thought that would be a hassle...
