Hey, I am having this problem with my zed cutting out it has happened twice now both times while turning a corner (Left and Right). First time was a left turn engine just cut out no stumbling like it was about to stall and the steering got tight (How i noticed something was wrong). It would not start back up so pushed it back to my house and left it overnight the next day it started up first shot. I changed the spark plugs, swapped the PTU, Cleaned all the connectors (CAS, CTS, MAF, PTU,) I thought the issue had been resolved until it happened again last night (2nd Time). Same deal turned a corner engine just cut out. Would not start back up it had spark would fire and then just die again. When my uncle started to tow me i heard a buzz from where the fuel pump is like when you first turn the ignition on. Got it back to my house and after hearing that noise decided to try and start it and it started up fine first time. I did notice a whistling noise coming from the fuel filter after she started again. So at this point im thinking Fuel pump, Blocked fuel filter, Fuel pump relay. If anyone has any other ideas or input that would be great. Cheers Sin.
Sorry forgot to add that while waiting for my tow checked codes on my laptop came up clean. Yeah S1 PTU after the first time it happened i swapped it with the one from my other Zed which i know was working.
Get a Series 2 ptu with the proper harness and see how that goes, and even if it that isn't the issue, you've killed a potential later on down the track problem . Also check your power steering switch as that can cause cut outs on most cars.
I think your on the right track given the whistling noise in the fuel filter means air is expelling via the hose due to pressure (as air can go through gaps where fuel cannot) : in other words it has run dry previous to that..... S1 PTU needs to go when your funds permit as they can be a nightmare to diagnose (don't necessarily throw codes and can mislead you into thinking its everything else) But I think your on the right track.... Is your relay and pump turning on, is the first question? Does your line have pressure at each point is the next question? (use both fingers and pliers to confirm pressure) You should be a step closer after those quick tests JC :zlove:
PTU is definitely one to watch but if you haven't done it since you bought the car just replace the fuel filter to tick it off the list, never know how old they are unless you have service records. You might also like to have a look in the tech section for the FPCU bypass and set up a little kit to take with you, if/when you have this problem again see if the fuel pump is priming when you to turn the ignition off and on, if not install the bypass and see if it will start. The fuel pump should be on high constantly with the ignition on with the bypass. If you still have your old ptu and it still sort of works maybe carry that with you too and see if swapping units allows the car to start again, if so you've got two faulty units. Properly installed, a series 2 ptu would almost completely eliminate this possible problem.
DO you have the steel clips on your CAS Plug, I had this issue when I first got mine and it turned out that the CAS plug would slightly disengage when going around a corner due to whatever reasons it may choose. Without the steel retaining clip it can cause your symptoms. The same may be plausible for the PTU connections but I dont know. the other possibility is the PTU itself although they tend to fail when they get hot rather than going around a corner.
Thanks for all the replies i have work tomorrow so i just have to pray that it does not happen again on my way too or from work. I will definitely try what has been suggested on sunday tho. I know its possible i have 2 bad PTUs but my gut is telling me thats not it. I will eventually upgrade to a S2 but i just got back from a holiday in america so funds are kinda tight at the moment. I will update on sunday after i have a look. cheers.
See if any of the guys local to you have a spare s2 ptu you can borrow or buy on payment, and and as the others have said try a fuel pump bypass.
Just an update. Has not cut out on me again. So have not had a chance to try the bypass to see if the FPCU is the culprit. Same deal with the relay and fuel pump they seem to work fine for now... Whistling noise i thought was coming from the fuel filter is actually coming from the the balance tube when i changed the spark plugs must not have sealed it properly (It already had silicon on it and no O-rings) will get a set for it ASAP. No steel clip on CAS (Fixed)
Hmmm. Turn a corner & the engine cut's out. Yet when level, it starts. Perhaps something really obvious like the battery connections, battery supports & shelf, or corroded terminals.
Final update.... Hopefully lol Well this is embarrassing. Last night after work took my car to a mates to use some 3 bond to fix the balance tube vac leak (I know will get new O-rings before my next plug change in 2000ks) and he pointed out that my battery terminals were loose.... Before i left for my holiday i disconnected the battery and while i was away had someone start it for me once a week. When i got back guess i was too eager to take it for a drive i didn't bother to check the terminals. No idea how i overlooked them when it cut out tho. So now its just a matter of driving and seeing if it happens again but hopefully this was the issue. So embarrassed... Thanks everyone for all the ideas and help was really appreciated.
Just a quick note guys please keep replies a) constructive and b) on topic. We've all ****ed up simple things before so let's encourage good practice rather than berate mistakes
Not the first, you won't be the last and if it helps, its happened to me before (the loose terminal thingy) You now have gained +1 experience and are smarter than before..... Your now a "go to guy" when its comes to these specific symptomatic problems Glad its all sorted....you can get back to the joy of driving your Z without all the frustration JC :zlove::zlove::zlove::zlove:
Update: Car has not cut out since and has been running fine until Tuesday. I had to do a lot of running around that day and the car was starting up fine until the 3rd place i went here is how it went. Home: Started 1st stop: Started 2nd stop: Started 3rd stop: Started after a min of idling revs dropped and it stalled would not start back up straight away but started after 5mins of sitting (PTU was really hot) got it back home and had to go out again around 2hrs later Home:Started 1st stop: had to pick someone up was idling for around 5mins and it did not happen again 2nd stop: Started 3rd stop: Started Then the next morning it would just not start it feels the same as after it cut out without the actual cutting out. I have taken everyone's advice and ordered a S2 PTU just have to wait for it to get here. In the mean time i swapped the PTU's around to see if that would get her to start no go on either of them. I did have a code 13 and 21 after i swapped the PTUs around 13 went away after i pulled the CTS connector and put it back on (may have bumped it while changing the PTU) and the 21 went away when i went back to the original PTU. No codes atm but still will not start. :help:
I would be changing that ptu over pronto, that will eliminate that issue, make sure your TPS isn't loose or the wires/plugs are okay. Run a check on all the plugs you can see for corrosion and clean and ensure they plug back in properly.
Long shot here: How's your coolant levels. If the coolant falls below the ECU coolant sensor it will not start. Also check the coolant sensor plug and pins for corrosion. Location: upper radiator hard pipe attached to the front of the motor. The two wire plug is the ECU connector, the single wire is the dash gauge.
Can also tick of the FPCU tried the bypass today still no go. Topped up the radiator today just in case after i seen the code 13 didnt need much at all before it was full. Cleaned the TPS, CTS, Both PTUs got as much corrosion of as i could. Hoping i just have 2 bad S1 PTU's and when the S2 gets here will solve the problem.
Another Update: Changed my fuel filter today it was blocked after i blew through one end this is what came out. That looks pretty bad to me. She is a little closer to running instead of starting and dying a second later with the new fuel filter she starts up tries to idle for a bit coughs and splutters and then stalls. Is it possible for a blocked fuel filter to kill a fuel pump due to it having to work harder to get the fuel through?
