OK currently finishing off my Forged Motor Build! Now back in the old days before Synthetic Oils, we use to put cheap oil in for the first 1000k's, Just wondering what is the latest tech on what to use when running in these days?
1: Don't use synthetic oils 2: Constant RPM is no good - Try to vary it as much as possible 3: Gear change "up/down" on different loads is highly recommended 4: High RPM not so much of a worry but don't go in to redline till you hit 1k 5: Change oil on 50km or less - 500km - 1000km and you will be sweet
WTF..... .... is a Forged Motor Build? As far as what oil to use, use whatever you like, synthetic oil will not do anything detrimental to the engine, it's just more expensive. Drive the car around normally, commuting in traffic with the stop start situation is ideal. The primary reason for using an oil other than synthetic is cost, as usually the oil is initially changed anywhere from 500 to 1,000 kilometres in a rebuilt engine. The important thing to change is the oil filter, as any metallic particles will hopefully be caught in the filter rather than circulating through the engine.
Using one of those magnetic sump plugs from the GB couldn't hurt either. They're that strong i picked up the sump with one the other day!
Synthetic oil in an engine with wider than normal clearances (forged pistons are generally set up with slightly more clearance bore to skirt) will see more blow-by until the rings bed, and synthetic oil will permeate the iron bore more than a mineral oil, worst case leading to glazing if loads are not sufficient to push the rings against the bores. I would not use synthetic oil in a new build Z32 engine until it is bedded. It is not clear whether this engine build is "race-spec" or not, so I'll assume it is built for tuff-road use in which case bedding is a 500-1000km job with lots of varying load with the load progressively increasing. By ~500-800km, the engine should be seeing WOT for short periods (2-5 seconds) at revs in mid-range (so you have reasonable boost pushing the rings against the bore to bed them). Main thing is not to baby the engine, not to flog it with WOT for long bursts and not the let the engine labour at low revs so you run the danger of knock A race engine can be bedded on a dyno in 20-30 minutes but that is a separate subject.
Forged Pistons Yes has forged Wiseco Pistons with piston to bore clearance as specified by Wiseco, which according to the machinists was less than usual for forged pistons.
+1 - They are the bees knees! Every time I do an oil change, I find a clump of metal paste hanging off the mag sump plug......better on the plug than floating around the engine. The mag plugs are even more valuable when running in. OK currently finishing off my Forged Motor Build! Now back in the old days before Synthetic Oils, we use to put cheap oil in for the first 1000k's, Just wondering what is the latest tech on what to use when running in these days? Didn't you get a running in sheet from the engine builder? Always good to check with them on the requirements for running the engine in - it won't differ to much from the advice given here but its always good to have the confidence of knowing the builder is behind the requirements. Gently rising and lowering the RPM between 1/3 and 2/3 throttle for the first ten hours will assist in the bedding (do not sit on the one RPM for extended time nor change RPM abruptly - gentle rises and lowering is best for bedding the rings in) Change oil as required to keep the metal particles from building up - it varies from one to the next but the first oil change should be between 6 - 10 hours of use. Mineral based oil will suffice as it will be dumped early on anyway due to the bedding particle build up that occurs during the running in Bedding the rings in properly, is crucial to a happy engine with a long life! JC :zlove:
Using a ryco oil filter is fine. Seeing as you have built a performance engine, thought you might have gone for one of those really fine micron cartridge filters. Don't use a fine micron cartridge filter, as they starve the middle of the crank at high RPM after you have run the motor in. A mate and I found this out the hard way. Thinking we were going the right way putting a super high performance oil filter in place, only to produce flogged out #3 and #4 big ends. That was rebuild number three. (long story on the other issues)
E85 Also will be running on E85 The machinist used a courser hone to help bed the rings in due to E85
I recently fitted new rings and bearings, honed the bores. Bedding in modern rings is nothing like the older style rings where everything was done gently over 1000's of KM Advice I received was run it fairly hard but not too many revs, max 5000. It is critical to load the engine in every gear and never sit at the same revs, this forces the rings out into the bores so they will bed in and gain maximum sealing efficiency fairly quickly. Change the oil and filter at 50-100km then again at 1000km. Best to ask you engine builder though.
The crucial part of the "running in" process is pretty much the first 30 minutes. As above, the ring to bore seal is the important part and that will happen correctly, or not, within a very short period of time. If cams/followers are new, then its crucial to keep engine revs up on initial startup/warmup to 2~2500 rpm until engine operating temp is reached. After that, shut it off and do a thorought check for fuel,coolant and oil for leaks from any possible connections that may have been left loose and levels. The coolant system should have bled itself by then. After that, off you go and give it a thorough workout as above. FWIW, the initial start up and subsequent first run are the only "running in" any of my engines ever see. E
