Hi, I have just finished putting my car together after pulling the engine out to rebuild and bore out the turbos and delete the EGR, AIVs, PRVR, AC, throttle body heaters, boost control solenoids, carbon canister, boost sensor, PCVs, cats and to add a manual boost controller. Upon start up it came up with code 21 which cleared after sanding some connections and code 13 which I can't get rid of. The car was idling poorly before the engine pull...it would idle high for a few seconds, low for a few seconds, then low and so forth until eventually dying. Can anyone tell me if the error code 13 would cause the engine to not start? At the moment it cranks over on the starter motor and fires on a cylinder or two occasionally and it appears to have spark as I have pulled one coil and it was sparking well.
Error codes are as follows (source) Error code 21 is the Ignition Signal Circuit. The diagnostic procedure 27 for the Ignition Signal Circuit can be found in the Factory Service Manual HERE Error code 13 is the Engine Coolant Temperture circuit. The diagnostic procedure 25 (engine temperature circuit) is HERE in the Factory Service Manual. Interestingly enough I have heard of faulty coolant temperature senders triggering code 21. Suggest you work through the diagnostics, clear errors, and retest. You may need to purchase a new Coolant Temperature Sensor, but diagnose the issue first.
Yes it can stop the engine from being able to start. Stop cranking over the engine. Often with code 13 the engine will flood with fuel. If you continue to crank the engine you'll need to pull the spark plugs and dry them. If it were me, I'd check the connector at the sensor. Give it a clean & disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset the ECU. Or like mentioned above, you might need a new CTS.
Thanks for the info. I've found that if the car is left for a few hours without cranking then it will run for about half a second before dying from flooding as you have said. I replaced the connector at the sensor, reset the ECU and found that there was no change, after that I replaced the CTS and reset the ECU and still found no change so I disconnected the ECU and read the resistance value of the CTS circuit from the ECU plug which read something like 2300 ohms which should be correct according to the manual....so its getting beyond my dumbass comprehension haha...
Check that your injector and ignition coils plugs are not corroded and at least clean them all but replacing is better. It can causes those exact symptoms. Cheers Dave
Ok then the issue is still there -you've verified the sensor is working, have you checked continuity between the sensor & the ECU as per the diagnostic? That should have been step 1
Yeah I verified the continuity of the wires going to the sensor by measuring the resistance of the sensor by connecting a multi meter to the appropriate pins of the ECU plug, which still read at about 2300 ohms.
I've tried to clear codes by disconnecting the battery for 24 hours but I'll try to reset it again by using the proper method tomorrow to be sure. Hopefully that's it
I just went out and reset the ECU by turning the flathead screw clockwise and back twice and it didn't clear the code 13. Before doing this I also gave the ECU a code 34 by disconnecting the det sensor just to make sure that I was resetting the ECU properly and that the codes were clearing by this method...which it did as the code 34 cleared...but of course not the 13. And yes I have been doing all this with the new CTS in place. The only sense that I can make of it is that somehow the CTS circuit is being interfered with only when the battery or ecu is connected, or that the problem is with the ECU its self...or of course that I'm missing something. I think I'll have to take it to an auto electrician.
Did you remove the CTS while checking the ECU wires.... to verify that the 2300 ohms measured is in fact coming from the CTS sensor and not another circuit?. MichaelZ
