Hope someone can help. The strange electrical connection (relationship) is between my Braking and losing complete power to my Stereo Unit. Situation: Usually after car is warmed up and have been driving for a while, sudden braking causes my stereo to lose al power. Tonight I did notice a very tiny flicker on the dash, as if the current dropped slightly but did not completely cease. It's definitely connected to a sudden brake - not violent (dangerous) braking, just 'purposeful' - the type you get in traffic if you don't leave a respectable buffer zone. (Yes, I do leave good distance usually) Any hints or even directions? Could this be Earth related, fuse box related...I'm clutching at straws but would love all of your input. Thanks, Rod
Sounds like a power or earth wire that hasn't been connected properly, specifically one that may have a bit of weight connected to it (like an inline fuse holder). The theory being that when you brake hard, due to centrifugal (or is it centripetal) force, the object moves away from the status quo, causing the bad joint to separate, thus causing the loss of power. Once the braking has decreased to the point where the object can sit as per normal, you get power back. Look for a bad joint near an inline fuse holder behind the headunit.
Sounds like you are describing a wire swinging forward and that causes the dodgy connection to shift. That would be due to inertia in this one.
Ok, inertia it is. Like a lot of things, knowing why and how isn't the same as knowing what it's called.
Does the stereo lose its memory and the stations? If yes then it is either the ground (negative radio connection usually a black wire) or the battery positive wire (usually Red) that is loose If your station memories are not lost then it most likely the ignition (usually a yellow wire that is the most likely culprint. Michaelz
I had a similar problem recently that the radio would die when I had the headlights on and slowed down to idle. Turned out to be the alternator on the way out and only giving 12.3V. Also misfired a bit too.
Good point. Battery voltage affected early ECUs... in strange ways. Get a Voltmeter and place across the battery without starting the car up. Should be around 12Volts. Stsrt the car a nd again check the voltage across the battery and the voltage should be up to 14Volts or thereabouts. The point is the voltage should rise above the initial 12Volts. Good point Chev28. MichaelZ
I'm back. Firstly, huge apologies for posting then going silent - we all get busy spurts at work and the last week was one of them for me. Thank you to each one of your suggestions and possible diagnoses - all very useful. As it's a monday night, I'll have to check a few things out tomorrow then feedback. First check: Alternator is an easy check so that comes before hunting any loose wires. I have a very new battery so it might have coped with a bad alternator for a few months. If the battery is now getting a little weak, a combination of lights, heater (winter), then brake lights could have tipped it over, causing radio to pop out. This might not explain it staying on during soft braking......(brake lights are still on) Second check: related to MichaelZs suggestion - I retain radio station memory - again it must keep some power so ignition could be the one. Third: suspect wiring movement......somewhere! I will feedback when and if I find the issue. Thanks to all. Rod
Alternator good: Over 2V difference between engine on and off, (14.37V when on). A tiny drop in voltage when lights, air con and radio are all turned on at once. Still around 14.26V with engine and accessories on. So this means I need to hunt around for another solution. If I find something, I'll make it known.
Do you have the rear amplifier installed? I think some Zeds had a rear amplifier for the Bose system I think. Maybe the amp is loose or something like that. MichaelZ
Thanks MichaelZ - I sure hope there's a Bose in the back! I'll be onto it in the morning and will start with the audio system. Cheers,
Ok. Maybe not Bose but..... there is a connector on my car in the rear and the FSM also mentions a Rear Amplifier on page EL-97. This is the amp I am referring to. MichaelZ
Yep......no Bose! but I have the FSM and can see the amp. This last week ,not one drop out. Am checking various earth points, but this one is going to bug me for a while.
Simplest possible cause is that someone's done a cheap stereo install, and run a power cable across from the fusebox, across the top (or front) of the brake pedal, and into the stereo. If this wire has an inline 3AG fuse holder which a lot of them do, this may be the problem. This fuse holder is the one that twists into two parts, and holds a glass fuse. The wire at each side has a brass contact, and one side is spring loaded to push the contacts onto each end of the fuse when the two halves of the holder are joined. Any tension on the wire at any point will pull the contact pad away from the fuse inside the fuse holder, and momentarily break the contact. If the brake pedal for example is resting on this wire, when it is pressed, it may stretch the wire, and break the contact inside the fuse holder. When released again, the contact is remade. Even if it isn't the brake pedal, anything putting tension on these type of fuse holders (eg if the stereo is loose, or something else is resting on the wiring) will cause this problem. Also need to check that the brake pedal hasn't chewed a hole into a cable by rubbing on it, and shorting out the cable when the brake pedal is pressed. Good luck in the search
Thanks all - been running without a hitch for 3 weeks, until tonight! Pulling console tomorrow to search for power source. Thanks.
