So I got the vents in, sorta. I need to secure them, but I want to wait for my rattle can paint job on them to cure for a couple days so I can sand and buff them, So they are not yet permanently attached. I haven't driven it yet with the vents in, but I did start it and let it warm til the fan came on and it is blasting air out of those vents. I will give a full report on how they decrease under hood temps when I have a chance to drive it later today.
I'll get some after I get them secured correctly. I have gorilla tape holding them in until after I can get them buffed.
Ok... just went and took a drive of about 75 miles. It looks like I lost about 10 degrees across the board, and about 15 degrees at 80 mph. Previously, it would run at about 197-200 at 70 mph on the interstate, depending on load. Tonight it stayed around 190, and when I ran up to 80 mph for a few miles, it dropped down to 184-185. The biggest thing that I noticed is that the floor and firewall of the car stay a LOT cooler. Usually within about 20 minutes, I could feel the heat radiating off the floor. Tonight, I was out for about an hour and a half, and I never felt it, at all. I think it was a good mod for the LS swap.
Very nice have you got a write up of how you did it? did you have to cut any of the structural reinforcement from the underneath of the bonnet? Also where did you get the vents from? Sorry for all the questions but it looks so good i really wanted to do something similar to mine to keep temp down as low as i can
Hey Smidey... I have no write up, sorry, but it is actually fairly easy to do. I simply used the vents to make a template (the holes are about 20% smaller than the outside edges of the vents), masked off the hood (I used two different colors of tape, white for masking, green to make my measurement grid) traced my template, measured, measured, measured, then cut them out with a dremel tool using quick lock metal cutting discs. Took about 20 minutes to cut the holes. I located them where I did so I wouldn't have to cut big chunks out of the structural support. They would have looked better, I think, just a bit further forward. But, where they are, I had to notch the supports just slightly so the vents would go down flush. I used these. http://www.fastwrx.com/collections/scoops-vents/products/2008-2013-wrx-and-sti-bumper-vent They are a "bumper vent" from a 2011-2014 subaru WRX STI. Cheap too, 34 USD apiece.
I have a vented bonnet and I found that in the rain there would be long dry spots on the bonnet going back from the vents!:zlove:
Yes... the air coming into the front creates high pressure under the hood. The air going over the front of the nose creates low pressure over the hood. So what you are seeing is the way it is supposed to work.
Sweet! thanks for all the info, i very well might do this to mine what do the scoops sit above? does it avoid water dripping straight down on coil packs etc?
hes running a ls motor dude. hence the placement, with a vg i would think that those vents would be to close to the throttle body area/plenum runners.. i could be wrong tho
If I still had the VG, they would probably have been placed a bit further forward. As it is, if water runs through, it will drip between the accessory drive and the heads, no electronics in the way.
The forward facing vent on my old zed (wrx style) sat right over the top of the motor and was driven on plenty of rainy days without any issues.
Looks really good. An off the shelf solution. Reminds me of a vented bonnet that was shown on this forum. He had it done at a panel beater.
