Hi gents, long time modified car guy, first time Z32 noob. I am currently chasing a good shell to put the TT running gear from my wifes wrecked Z32 (or a good cheap runner to begin with!). Have seen a few floating around that seems to have shat timing belts or have head gasket issues. I plan to give the running gear a freshen up before it gets transplanted and wanted to know what causes the problems in the first place so we don't end up with the same problem in the future. Is it simply a head bolt issue like toyota 7M engines or dud gaskets blowing out? The other option is to slot in a VH41 and attempt to turbocharge it (engine swaps dont scare me) but thats going to be a lot more time and money than I want to spend.
Main causes are lack of maintenance, failure of the many cooling water hoses then the engine overheats
Majority of cases are due to overheating. Generally speaking these engines do not have inherent cylinder head problems due to design. If you are considering a V8 engine swap, a GM LS engine is a far better choice due to easier fitment, availability of parts and power upgrades are cheap and well supported. Only problem is you can not legally add forced induction in Queensland due to the displacement size but you can with anything less than 4.8 Litre if the Z is a 2+2.
Absolutely, but whats the point of a v8 swap without boost? The vehicles we are looking at are 2+2's and was only considering the VH41 as a mate has one on his workshop floor cheap. Plus, I like big long powerskids. If the gaskets have blown are the VG's a hardy motor? I've just looked at one of the forum members vehicles this week and it was leaking coolant externally and chuffing steam out the exhaust like a train. Giveaway gasket blown. What are the chances I can just whip the head off, replace the busted hoses and gasket and have the car as a runner while I freshen up the spare drivetrain I have? Apparently the car is known to forum members so I'd appreciate any background info so I know what I'm getting myself in for.
I've done the vh swap. Pulled it out for a modded tt engine...... Don't fit well in a zed. Lsx fits better.
Heh, welcome, it's a bit more family friendly than PF here but still plenty of people who know their stuff, just try not to call anyone an ****. Chrispy has done a VH45 conversion and has a build thread here and here with lots of handy pictures and such but as he said, for performance purposes putting the same effort into the VG should get you much more. Head gaskets seem to be an over heating thing as has been said, reasonable maintenance and fresh hoses and such in the cooling system should keep your new engine in good shape, bypass the under plenum coolant hoses too, heaps of little hoses and joins under there to cause problems that you don't need.
No you didn't, pure double overhead fail ya talker. The VH ran so poorly you parted it out, is that "done", and then you contemplated the "modded" (don't forget that) TT as far as shopping for parts then sold that out. Have you ever owned a road going Z32 ? :rofl:
If the gaskets have blown are the VG's a hardy motor? Given they won the Le Mans and Daytona I would say yes. It all comes back to proper installation / maintenance and proper tuning. Like any engine - if its not running properly or treated properly their can be problems. Gaskets tend to be fairly solid in most cases, unless not installed properly (not torqued properly etc.) or pushed to extremes and as stated, these extremes are mostly from overheating issues. Its an uncommon event in the majority of issues. You can achieve big long powerskids in a VG30DETT without needing a V8 although an LS is appealing, if not just for the sound of a banger - fuel economy will slow most down though. Good luck!
It was your old car I had contemplated buying due to the fact it was already plated for the VH swap. A quick bit of research suggests the VH41 is much easier for the conversion than the VH45 due to the placement of the ancilliaries hanging off the motor and making the same power and torque (or close enough). I wouldnt have bothered unless a turbo or two could be fitted somehow and that seems to be the issue. Unless a couple of small frame twins on tight log manifolds would fit similar to the stock set up then it just isnt worth the hassle as far as I can see. I did think about doing it US style and having a big rear mount turbo (I have a spare GT35R with a 1.06 housing) but havent bothered measuring anything.
Cheers bloke! Quite frankly I'm starting to get the shits with PF, too much trolling and not enough genuine help. The fact that I've already had two PM's from blokes offering assistance and advice bodes well for me hanging around here.
Pfff... What you talking about Willis????? Anyonce can call me a **** anytime and Im still aleways happy to help!!!!!! Sry Sketch. Some of us here still have a sense of humour!!!!!! E
Is there an issue with the hosting of pictures in your build threads? Been reading the thing from start to finish and none of them work Also having ideas about the VH41, big cams and an adapted pair of Hayabusa or similar ITB's, E85 and 8000rpm.....
I did have oil pressure issues with the VH. Never denied it. It was fully mod plated and a complete car. Just never got rego. Did 50k's in it or so. TT swap, again mod plated. Rego'd and did 3000K's or so. Put it into a wall at the track, parted it and bought something better. You ever going to get over yourself? Still pissed off that I apparently didn't thank you enough for driving around to pick up a chip for me (which didn't work) a few years ago??
The aluminum head/Iron block configuration is the biggest issue. I just finished the LSX swap in my Z, and this motor loves to run at about 200 degrees, and in traffic will reach 215, and went over 220 a couple times when I had some air in the cooling system. I panicked the first time that happened, but, after doing some reading, I found that it is perfectly normal on an all aluminum LS. The fans on Corvettes, Trans-ams, and camaros doesn't even kick on with a stock ECU til 217, that is on low, and the high fan won't kick on til over 220. With the VG, if you get above 220, your are in the area where heads can warp, because of the different expansion rates of iron and aluminum.
And I see you found the light with the europeans. Nice work Has anyone had a solid effort at reducing under bonnet temps of the Z32's? I had contemplated lifting the rear of the bonnet and cutting some vents through the front quarter panels similar to an E46 M3 so the positive pressure area at the bottom of the windscreen pushes hot air through the vents.
From what I've read, the higher operating temps are used to reach emissions goals, not because it's best for the engine. Putting a lower temp thermostat in helps in some vehicles, such as the late 90's Range Rovers where overheating was a big issue. Similar to the original Q, once a BHG has occurred, what are the options? 1) throw a new one in and let it be. 2) throw in a new HG and skim the head flat 3) new HG and replace the head?
I am going to put some of these in the hood this weekend http://www.fastwrx.com/collections/scoops-vents/products/2008-2013-wrx-and-sti-bumper-vent And I am picking up this from the paint shop tomorrow when they finish the paint on it.
It originally had a 192 thermostat in it, I changed it to a 172 and that helped a bit, but I think the real problem really is the short engine bay of the Z. I believe once I get the vents in, that should reduce engine bay temps dramatically, and therefore the engine will run cooler. As far as the head gasket, It is always best to take the head to a good shop, and get it checked for square and level. A lot of times they don't have to do anything, but it should be checked. Don't want to change it only to find a month later you have to change it again because the head was .003 out of level. The only time you would have to replace a head is if it is severely warped, ten thousandths or more out of square.
