Half the reason why I made the comment, learning from my own experiences. but the reason I even bought the tomei ecu is because it worked better than a stock ecu to get my z moving after the timing belt was put on wrong during the swap. then it does run the z slighly better over a stock ecu, no issues other than power doesnt feel as fluent as the stock ecu. big difference though, If i was blowing smoke or making any real issues other than just power issues, I wouldn't have bought the ecu after we test installed it. If I did buy an ebay chip and had this problem. for the $45, I'd put it straight in the bin and message toshi. which was pretty much the advice I was given in a thread I posted ages ago asking about the quality of ebay chips. can't really have too much of a go at me for passing on the same advice that I get given by reputable members when I am was asking about the same issues. but just for the record, if I'm asking q's about timing and ecu's and anythign else, it's to work out what sort of power I should be getting. apart from not a great deal of power, my Z purrs like a 6 cylinder kitten and always has since the timing belt was installed correctly after the TT swap almost a year ago. if It wasnt for the fact the compression was ****ed in the TT that was sourced for the swap that I was told was a good quality TT, then I'd have a pretty healthy TT at the moment. Why? because i've spent probably close to 10k looking after everything else with the advice i've got from the forum. why does my TT run like shit? because someone put in a TT without comp testing it and I have no compression why does my gearbox run like shit? because I was told it was better condition than my na box and its possibly the box or the cluth is dodgy which I paid good money for so now I will wait until I have a spare 1500 to rebuilt the whole ****ing lot....... not being a ****, But I have built my z up pretty well so far, at least the parts that I have done myself. and I think it's running pretty well considering the mess I had to work with, so really, I think commenting on something like this is a pretty simple matter. get rid of that shit ebay chip, and spend the money to get a known good chip made up from a member, if there are still issues, then work through what else is being said in this thread. but for now, he has no real idea what the maps are on that chip. just seems idiotic to not start with the issue that caused the smoke in the first place. End.
It drives with an uneven idle and rough running between gear changes and it belches huge clouds of this White Smog continuously(this is definitely NOT Steam and doesn't smell like burning oil either).
Mine did the same after injector swap. Injector dead time was out. Something to check maybe. I have seen most with nismo 555's leave the dead time the same as stock and have fine results, however I have also seen results of others needing to increase the dead time. In my case (different injectors I know) I had to massivly increase the dead time. It now idles nice and the white clowds are gone You you still run afm?
thanks mate - no doubt that's good advice, and i plan to get a Nistune setup when i can afford it. But i'm certain the problem is outside the ECU because my stock OEM spare is doing the same thing. I suspect it's a contact on the ECU connector or open circuit wire because there's been a lot of work done on it before i bought it and the harness is crammed with extra wires and IDC crimp-ons. so next time i get onto it i'll be looking at signals with a scope and checking earths in the ignition circuit because it looks like a very weak spark. Still running a S1 PTU but i have a S2 waiting to go in - so that might be the next thing after checking the wiring that's had a hard life, and the signals etc. - but only if it tests indicate the S1 PTU is sus. Otherwise i'll do the change once this problem is fixed. thanks heaps for the advice, and happy to have more !
thanks -but coil pack out with a good plug grounded to the plenum had weak spark. Running iridium plugs, and was all good immediately before chipping, and not good immediately after.
No Mike, no AFM since the Microtech ECU was fitted several years ago. Are we talking about the same thing when I say that I have had to reduce the "open time" of the 550cc inj.(to reduce over-fueling)and you refer to increasing "dead time"??? I reduced "open time" by 45%(as that is the calculated increase in fuel flow of the 550cc's to the 380cc "stock" items.
Dead time or latency, the time it take the injector to open once it gets the signal. Ecu needs this to calc when to send the signal.
Your stock ECU will 100% not run your 550cc injectors, your ECU doesn't know what size injectors its running, you have to tell it. If you can butter up someone else running 550's and borrow their ECU to test you can rule out the tune.
Ahhhh...Ok now I see. Is it difficult to start? Once it starts, is it difficult to keep going with any popping/banging back thru the inlet or from the exhaust? Wanting to stall and requiring plenty throttle to keep it alive. It might very well be just condensation (steaming) after repeated cold running while buggerising around, and a possibility that the reduction is too high and its actually running too lean. I still say, get it running and get it to operating temps. This is important. There is NO point in making any changes unless the engine is sufficiently warm. Just ignore the smoke/steam. You wont hurt it M8. Worse thing is it will stop. Hold the revs up as best you can up around 2500 and run that MIXTRM correction figure up and down and see which way it needs to go. Its a real time correction so the effects will be immediate. Hit it with a 10% enrichment first. Always go rich first.Iits easiest to determine if its rich. See what it does. Not much? 10% again. All that will happen is the engine will overfuel and stop. Just establiush a baseline so you know where you are and see if that global correction is too high or low. All then you do is just trim it until it runs smoothly but trim it to the rich side of "right". Even if the bastard blubbers a bit rich. That wont hurt when you have to drive it anywhere. Thats all there is to it.Ttake brave steps young man!!! Otherwise buy me a farken air ticket and Ill bring a tuning handpiece and a WBo2 guage up and ill do it for you because Im tired of hearing of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You wont hurt it at all and it will point very quickly to the direction you need to take with it. E
Thanks Tas.:zlove: You're "tired of it"? I'm so fed-up with the whole fiasco that my Missus has taken to hiding anything remotely combustible(because she doesn't fancy herself as a Volunteer Fire-person). The guys at Microtech in Sydney are the ones who calculated(and adjusted)the Mixtrim settings at -45%. Am I correct in my understanding of your advice(that I should run up and down from that figure in 10% increments until I get a satisfactory result)?? P.S. No point in me booking you a ticket, I can't pick you up from the Airport.:zlove:
Lloyd the guys at microtech can only guess without having the car and seeing how it responds to changes -why not throw it on a flatbed and send it to a tuner?
Too much reduction..... IMHO 45% is too much to chop out of the K value (injector duration). Nismo 555's have a rated K value of 210ms which is only about 25% shorter than the oem (370's) Don't play around with the latency yet (injector opening/closing time), nismo/jecs injectors all use the same 75ms latency. You need to get access to a WBO2, otherwise you are just stumbling around in the dark.
I don't understand why people make things difficult for themselves . Put it on the dyno ... Tune to suit ....drive car with a smile on your face ....End of story ... Close thread ... .
buy a 160 buck aem wideband. put your wife in the seat of your ridiculous fast car. read the a manual for 15 mins and tune your fuel table. I am really suggesting this as a option. It really isnt that hard to tune your fuel table (timing is another story). read, read and read again. Sit there and play around while the car is idling watching the wideband. You will get a feel for how much you "need". You will have a skill you can build on and your fuel table will be 100% correct for driving the car on the road (dynos load the car differently)
You left out, A: Rob Bank B: Shoot Wife C: Sell Children D: Burn 300ZX That's about all I can manage on the Aged Pension(and people who perform Dyno-tuning only know how to count in "Telephone No's".
I know exactly what you are saying But there are places that quote you for a basic tune ... And your's seems to be that ,injector upgrade ? Call JEM ,can't hurt to discuss. .
Chili Firstly. I dont know what microtech were calculating on but 550cc injectors are only 30% increase over 380's according to my calculations. Somebody confirm? Im not wonderful with mathematics. So cutting 45% to begin with is pretty risky. Change your correction to -30% and see how it runs. E
The difference between 550 and 380 is 30% of 550, 45% of 380 so they got that right. Given that standard injectors are quoted as 370 though, a 45% increase (370 x 1.45) would give 531, possibly your problem there.
