Your motor is cactus! Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the use by date on your engine appears to have arrived. The standard compression on a healthy Twin Turbo is 171PSI. The minimum acceptable pressure is 128PSI. You have 120PSI! The work you need to do is an engine rebuild, most of your boost & fuel is going into your oil pan past the piston rings or through leaking valves.
Launching a bit harder to overcome the tramp and getting a bit of wheelspin works a lot better than giving it less gas to try and stop wheelspin. Emiles hks2530 zed (now jamies) use to tramp but when I launched it at 5krpm it spun slightly but took off beautifully.
Yup - I struggle big time with axle tramp if I'm not sideways.... Tried that and broke a half shaft due to the axle tramp! But on the response discussion - I run auto cams, with manual turbos with an NA rear conversion - playing in the wet the other morning (on a private road of course) flooring it at 1500rpm in 3rd gear results in wheelspin at about 2100rpm - thats with fairly decent 285's on the back, doing the same from 1500rpm in 4th - spins the rears at 2500rpm... Pretty impressive response from a turbo motor. 2100rpm is about 8psi - 2500 I'm hitting about 12psi...
No, its ok. I put in some of that oil additive that improves compression so i'm pretty sure my comp is at 9000 now but yes, I think this is the sad reality of my situation. moral of the story, If you are going to spend over 7k doing a TT swap. Comp test the engine you are putting in first. I would love to rebuild it and the gearbox. the next 10k i get, will be going straight into doing just that.
yeah the easy way is to give it a bunch more throttle but for people who drive on the street and want to be able to take off briskly, we dont want to blazing the tyres every time to avoid axel tramp. Its not a driver issue, its windup in the links controlling fore and aft movement, combined with shocks struggling to control the rebound . Cars with solid bushed rear ends wont suffer, and coil overs or mega stiff suspension will mask the issue. Its a compromise like everything on cars i guess, i hate driving rose jointed and coil overed cars on the street but it would eliminate axel tramp. For now i have stiffened my konis up enough to remove 90% of it
yes except for diff bushes but I've had stock suspension then bisltein shocks and pedders springs with a few adjustable arms now race setup Cars never tramped ,wet or dry.. .
Damn man. Woulda thought 7k included a rebuild You should look at a rebuild kit if you can afford it hey. Think there was a z1 kit for sale cheap ish recently. Get some help on the pull. It wouldn't be too painful. Will def make you enjoi the zed, mayhaps a few new pair of undies will be needed afters
Perhaps the thing to do is give it another compression check at operating temperature with a fully charged battery. Note the initial pressures & then retest after putting about a tablespoon of engine oil in the cylinder. If the pressure increases, the piston rings are worn or damaged, no change, or very little change in pressure would indicate valve issues.
You don't need to have a shovel-full of hp to feel the torque..... I've always enjoyed the response in my TT (stock ECU and internals), doesn't make big numbers on the dyno but those who have driven it, including Niall (rollin) and Karl (90TTZ) say that it has a good smooth power delivery through the range, which is what you want for a street car. Agree with East Coast Z regarding your compression numbers, should be getting a professional to look closely at the condition of your engine.
Alas, no. it still has power in some places, and definately torque, so if it can do a ton better than what it is, then I am kind of worried :/ I've already started looking at kits. ring's are one thing, but of course there's going to be a lot of other stuff needed. one Z1 kit was a full rebuild kit for about 1500, not sure if it included pistons though. but if I'm going that far, I midaswell do pistons. I'll definitely be looking into doing this. well I don't have power in the low end that is for sure. but as long as the revs are up, I'm still getting some reasonable power output. not amazeballs, but it's not bad.
so what your really saying is maybe my tyres are too hell sticky so that my engine of supreme horsepowerness just can't deal with the adhesion?
