Ok need some advice. Just had my son's engine rebuilt and after considerable angst we got it running all nice. We run it for 15 mins and all good according to nistune and consult. Stopped the engine drained the running in oil and changed oil filter and added new oil. Next morning James started the car and took it for a run around the block. After only going about 3kms he stalled the car at a corner (hadn't driven a car with a HD clutch for six months) and then the car refused to start but turns over. Had to get he car towed back home. Ok, there is fuel pressure, checked the ECU and PTU (series 2) by swapping with another ECU and PTU. CAS is good, wiring from coilpacks back to ECU all good. Don't seem to have spark. Any thoughts? Car has mongoose alarm which seems to be ok, fuel\pump working etc so I don't think it is that. I am stumped.
You pulled the plugs to check spark? Were they wet/dirty? the stall may have fowled them or they'll be wet if you have no spark (or your injectors are leaking/overfueling) If you have a multimeter that reads frequency you can check if the coilpacks are firing by checking across the two little bolts on the back of the coilpack [edit] if you get a reading its firing
"If you are in a non Z and catching up to me, its just that my engine is not warmed up yet". The non Z just went past! Nistune & ConZult should give a good indication of the systems that are working correctly. Is the fuel pressure correct? Try checking for spark with a timing light.
What does the alarm cut out? Does the alarm shut off ignition, Fuel and starter? If alarm shuts off ignition then bypass or check the alarm fuses. Also check if you have Positive 12volts at the coil pack connectors. You need to diagnose the problem. I suggest you use the Factory service manual schematics to assist. Hope this helps. MichaelZ
thanks guys. I haven't pulled the plugs only coilpacks. So will have a look tonight. Ignition relay opening. Injectors brand new and not overfuelling or leaking. Have positive 12volts at coilpacks. Alarm is a four point mongoose 80 series, fuel ignition, starter and something else. Given that the ignition relay is working I have assumed that the alarm is ok. But I am starting to wonder and run out of ideas :-(
M80 alarm only has 3 point immobilizer. Just looked at the M80 series alarm and i can only see 3 immobilizer ccts. You said that there is something else. Could be the Turbo timer. I suggest you find out about this fourth circuit. MichaelZ
Plugs could be wet/fouled. Iridium or copper plugs? How did you check for spark? I find the easiest way is to pull a coilpack, pull the rubber insulator off the end, hold the exposed conductor close to the plenum and crank it over checking for spark jump. Still no spark? - Check earth at back of plenum and ensure it is connected. Failing to have this connected this can fry your PTU. If you find you have spark: Bypass FPCU - Long shot but worth trying Report back after trying the above and previous comments.
MichaelZ you were right only three points on alarm and all you ok. Checked plugs and they were good, iridium. Earth strap on plenum all good. Tested spark with an extension spark lead into coil and held against plenum. Nothing on cylinder 1, havent tested others. It has got me beat. Think I will try and get a mobile auto electrician to have a look before before my son loses more interest in his zed
There are 3 earth wires on the plenum, 2 near number 6 coil and one on number six runner. Unlike s1 ptu's that fry instantly, s2's take a little longer to fry when the earths aren't all there.
I was just about to say ... No one mentioned CAS connector or faulty CAS yet ? My zed did this one day. Died at a intersection. Wouldn't start again, pushed it 5km home in a break down lane lol. I'd swap out for a CAS that is known to work, check the connector at the time
Auto Electrician didn't turn up!!! Typical! Ok changed out the CAS - No go! CAS Connector ok, relay ok. Noticed at pin B on the CAS connector I only have 5 volts however accordingly to the service manual it is suppose to be battery voltage, battery is good. Haven't checked contintuity from CAS connector back to the ECU yet. That's next. Any more ideas please???
Why? "Noticed at pin B on the CAS connector I only have 5 volts however accordingly to the service manual it is suppose to be battery voltage". Don't you think this is worth checking? You are measuring the correct pin?
I will be checking to see why, and it is the right pin. Just wanted to see if anyone else what might cause such a voltage drop or there where any other thoughts on why it won't fire up.
Thought it time I put up an update report. We have two electricians look at the car without success. Then took it to the tuner who got it going but again only in safety mode. After two weeks they thought they found the problem, tthey thoughtt it was the AFM. Replaced it, but no that wasn't the issue. A week later they say they have found the problem, a dry joint on a power cable coming out of the ECU and that it was going onto the dyno the next day. Fantastic news. Well that was over a week ago. Apparently they put it on the dyno and after a couple of minutes the car shut down. There response was still don't know but it keeps throwing a coolant sensor code, really.........(James told them that when the car was delivered there on the back of a truck). The coolant sensor was installed new when we rebuilt te motorr and I checked the resistence and checkedd out ok at cold. Couldn't check at temp as we couldn't get it started. So after two and half months, two workshops and a mobile auto electician we are still no closer :-( still stumped.
i got my whole car apart at the moment. if you need anything for testing let me know. how old is the loom? could it have a broken wire in there?
