Ok, thanks heaps. So I set the idle at 0.45v That first mm of throttle (where I'm getting the hesitation) what output should I be expecting on the multimeter? Is it linear up to 5v at wot? I may be able to see some funny voltage drops at off idle hopefully. Ill check it out. Or could I see this through consult if I can get hold of one? Maybe I can convince Jonno or Evan to pop out with their consult cable and datascan software or something!! Hint hint. Either way as plenum will be off in January and I doubt the O2's have been replaced, and its done 130 000 Kms. If they are easier to replace with no plenum I will replace them.
I would suggest you read up on the TPS in the FSM, so you are familiar with how it operates & then test it, with the information in front of you. Rather than use volts, ohms could be a better choice. Turn the sensor slowly & watch the figures on the display, talking about a DMM not an analogue unit. You would be looking for a steady increase/decrease in the resistance, without any sudden jumps. The steadier & slower you turn the sensor, the more chance you'd have of identifying a problem. It might be easier to test if it is removed from the engine.
have one of these type mm https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...1A40CuRDAks6zGvjxceLg1oniljvY_UjN-uFQmqs2FMT3 I shall have a play and see what i come up with. With what you are saying however it may be in my best interests to get a new one from CZP. they are only $80 dollar and im getting an order from there soon anyways. and if it isnt the cause of my issues i have a decent spare. I will also go through the FSM and read a little more before i get to testing.
Just a little more info for you on TPS readings, since I last posted in this thread I have done tests and replacement on mine. I noticed a spike of voltage (4V) just as I put the throttle on lightly. Also neutral position would sometimes return to 4V rather than 0.45V. So if I were you I'd check for any irregularities and repeatedly test to see if your neutral position voltage changes value randomly. FYI it should increase voltage in a linear fashion all the way up to between 4V and 5V. I used the method here: http://z32.wikispaces.com/Throttle+Position+Sensor The article also makes mentions about the hard idle switch and its relative position with the TPS voltage, if they are out of sync then the TPS is rooted. Possibly the easiest diagnosis.
Still struggling with this issue. Unplugged the tps for a while and my issue remains, although not as bad. And still have the almost stalling when I pull up. It's almost like a complete bank cuts out. Got the S2 PTU wired in and it's still happening. At a bit of a loss. Have noticed the coolant always ends up 3" below full. And when I pulled the silicon return hose off from radiator is wasn't full and only released a small amount of coolant. With this pipe not being full and coolant possibly not touching the temp sensors could this be sending false readings to the ecu and messing my fuel map? The temp gauge always shows just over half so I've never really thought about it before! Plenum pull next week, no doubt ill have more stupid questions. Thanks for patience and noobish advice Rob
More info Going through the PO's posts it looks like the injectors were taken out and serviced in 2009. What's the expected life of a set of injectors?
Have you tried cleaning the MAF inside with this stuff ? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...low-Sensor-Cleaner-300g.aspx?pid=157339#Cross
No. Not yet. I was going to replace them on the plenum pull but I've ran out of disposable income for now. May disconnect them today and see what happens.
Not the O2 sensors, just disabled them and went for a cruise. Still happening. Had a small play with tps half way through and the connection into the tps itself when wiggled would almost stall engine. When disabled would run rough as. To disable tps you just unplug the grey oval connector yes?
Gents (and maybe some ladies as well) I have been following this thread with some interest, as I have suffered from similar "hesitation" for about 5 years now. Other than changing out the complete wiring harness (which I would have done by now if I could find someone in SE Qld who knew what they were doing and would help me), I have just about done everything else, incl such things as new O2 sensors, coil packs, splitfires, etc but to no avail. Now, not having driven it for about 6 months other than the occasional startup and idle for 10 minutes, the "hesitation" has deteriorated to what feels like it is running on about 3 cylinders. I note only one reference in this thread to using Nissan Datascan. I have the software, the Manual and Conzult cable but really am at a loss as to how to set up for finding the source of the "hesitation". Has any of the contributors tried that approach to this particular problem yet? If so please PM me with your advice. It is a long time since I enjoyed the rush that driving a TT Zed in top condition brings. regards
Hi neddey The problems I was having were caused by several things I believe. Hesitation, stalling and loss of boost power. I struggled for a while to resolve them. Go through the hesitation section in the tech section, it is quite invaluable. Systematically go through the fixes shown, easy ones first (cts, tps, cas, etc) I have just completed a plenum pull and throttle body bypass, plus fixed some vacuum hoses that someone messed up. It has resolved my issues for now. I'm sure something else will go wrong soon. Good luck with tracking your issue down.
TPS = Throttle Position Sensor...its the tiny black box thats located next to the passenger side throttle body Abraham
Okay, thanks. I thought it might have had something to do with the transistor unit. I keep blowing injectors and thought if TPS had anything to do with the transistor then you might have been good for further info. Speaking of hesitation however, I do have a bit of a lag from standstill. I've got to give it a good solid boot or I'm fearful she will stall on moving away from lights or when giving way at corners.
