Alright lads and lasses. What started out as a beautiful day at barbagallo this morning soon turned to greif! similar to the issues in this thread http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327113 I was on my cool down lap and noticed the temps getting a tad high (95ish). Pulled up at the pits and my overflow bottle was vibrating like crazy and coolant went everywhere (overflow must of had some kind of leak?) anyway, car wouldnt cool down and any coolant I replaced would magically dissapear (im assuming into the overflow bottle it didnt go on the floor this time though) the oil had no signs of cloudiness. I let it cool down and then tried filling it up with coolant and every time i poured some in it bubbled like crazy i decided against better judgement to try limp it home with some friends behind me and the car stayed stable at 90 degrees.. then i came to a stop, and the car just shut off and wouldnt start. Got it towed home and I was hesitant but i tried to start it and it fired up and idled fine, then shut off and wouldnt start again. what have I done here folks... im guessing head gasket or worse
Sounds like you've cooked it! You didn't let it cool down long enough when you attempted to refill it with water. That bubbling was the water boiling as it came in contact with the hot metal. You're right about driving it against your better judgement, now the price is to be paid. Compression test it before you do anything else.
but it was like 30 degrees when i refilled it with coolant, i waited 3 hours haha. still bubbled. anyway. sad face, ill do a compression test
so the cars at home now? id refill with water (dont bother with coolant till you know the issue) check the oil for cloudiness, and check the plugs to see if the tips are clean, not melted of etc. try and fire it up, and record what happens. it does sound bad what youve done, but its hard to tell, theres many many things that can lead to the car not running. anything from ptu/ecu, to low compression and buggered plugs
yeah im getting a compression tester on saturday from a mate and the diagnosis list will start tuesday fingers crossed
Coolant on the PTU and CAS can cause you some issues !! Did a coolant change a few weeks ago, got a friend to clamp the top hose and the moment that heat expanded the top hose it blistered a hole in the top hose from the clamp being incorrectly placed. When the hose arrived, it was right before this happened. No over heating though and what a waste of coolant! Good luck to you though. Zeds love to run hot, need all the cooling they can get!
I can crank the car fine, it starts and then after 5-7 seconds the idle drops off and it stalls. then consequently the plugs are wet when I go to start it again and it wont start till the fuel dries off. there's no water in the oil or oil in the water - no error codes either
try giving it a little help on start up. so fire it up, then immediately get on the throttle and rev it up to about 1500-2000 rpm for a few seconds then, then slowly back off the throttle making sure it doesnt stall. that should get it running id say. that being said, you obviously have a bigger issue to do with overfueling or leaky injector seals or similar.
Is this a fact? You have removed the plugs & identified the plugs are wet, or you are guessing this is the problem? How did you go with the compression test?
just did a compression test 6. 150 5. 135 4. 135 3. 145 2. 140 1. 140 could be lower than what they actually are too because I was running off the battery while being jumped by my XTRAIL
thats good, all within 15 varience which is acceptable...... done a boost leak test? might have blown a intercooler hose of or something.....would fit with the starts then stalls issue....
Seems like a lot of work to go to & then be uncertain of the results. Standard compression 171 psi. Minimum 128 psi. Permissible difference between cylinders 14 psi. Did you have the throttle wide open & the camshaft position sensor harness disconnected?
As the minimum figure is 128 psi & you're above that also the difference between cylinders is close to the acceptable limit, it would appear you have not damaged your engine. A severe overheat can lead to 0 compression. Pull the fuel pump fuse & check you have good spark on all cylinders. By the way, how did the plugs look?
they still work at 100- 110 psi mine used to run 15 psi boost and still raced it as long as they are all about the same main thing you have to get all that air out of system face car uphill and fill with a coke bottle cut off bottom so can have water higher than radiator, could still be a head gasket though put some of that silver seal in works a treat till you do the head gasket
To do the compression test I left CAS in and pulled the fuel pump fuse on drivers side of engine bay. heres a pic of what the spark plugs look like, pretty standard if you ask me.. bit of carbon deposit on there though, what do you guys think think the colours came out a bit wrong too but you get the idea http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/868155/Compression-Test-How-To.html thats the guide I did for compression testing, wide open throttle
Also just built a boost leak tester and bought some new spark plugs for the sake of it, so ill do all that tonight some time
