Hello i had my engine recently rebuild and now im having the following problem. Cant get the timing at the stock 15deg. Turned all the way clockwise the cas and i get 27 deg, tha cas at midlle it is 35deg. double checked the timing and it is ok. The dots lines up just fine and i counted the belt teeths as the manual says and it is ok. The engine has new tomei poncams fitted and adjustable puleys. All these was fitted by a professional and the cams were fitted at the degrees the tomei says. None of the puleys seems to be very far from zero point at the puleys. All is at +/- 1 deg. The car runs and idles just fine. Checked with conzult and the ecu says 15 deg. Just to be sure i connected a lead between the sparkplug and the coilpack and took the inductive light pickup from there. Any thoughts on that. What else sould i check?
Engine has to be up to temp. If you have a faulty e.c.u temp sensor ( 2 terminal sensor ) it may think it is not up to temp and this effects the idle timming also. Cheers Dave
might be out there, but what kind of harmonic balancer are you running? Have seen some aftermarket units where the TDC mark on the pulley was grossly out. No other way of checking timing than with an induction tester, either with the sensor located- a. AT the coilpack connector b. With a modified coilpack, with a silicone lead from the output running down to the sparkplug.
all sensors have been checked via conzult and everything is ok. the ecu says 15deg so there is no problem from there
The ecu timing is only in reference to te mapping. Te CAS is mechanical timing (engine telling the ECU it's position) If all the way right is 27 degrees. Then in the middle is 35? Something is very wrong because turning it ANtI clockwise is meant to retard timing. Are you positive you A) have the timing light induction loop the correct way B) how are you closing the induction loop?- are you holding it close by hand? Or does it stay close under it's own force once depressed
I run an ams underdrive pulley but checked that too. got the sparkplug out of the first cylinder and placed a screwdriver in and when the piston is at the upper position the mark at the pulley aligns with the zero point at the block
I'm pretty sure thats the way I adjusted it. full clockwise to get 27deg. at center it was 35 for sure. I'm gonna take a look again on that as I'm not 100% sure in which way the timing retarded. As for the way I used to connect the inductive light, I just placed a Silicon lead from the coilpack to the sparkplug and took the pickup from there.
Are you running an auto ecu in a manual ? If the neutral pin is not grounded the ecu will bump the timing by 10 degrees (thinking you are in drive)
but that shows up on conzult, and if cas adjustment only just retarded far enough to be correct there'd still be something weird. I had a quick read of your other threads, you're running a dett head on a det block? Are the timing belts and settings the same for both engines? How long is the spark lead you're using and how close to the pack is the is the tach sensor? Are you running any ignition boosters? Other than the above, assuming your reading is accurate, I would guess there's an issue with the timing notches on the cam not being aligned with something correctly
To using a timing light on the Zed I just open the clip and hold it up against the top of number 1 coil. Just watch the light and you will know when it is in the sweet spot . No need for any fancy leads or clips. Works every time. A bit of mucking around but to be positive the crank pulley is correct pull it all off down to the small crank pulley that drives the timing belt and it has a T.D.C mark that when lined up with the small notch on the oil pump tells you the motor should be at T.D.C on number 1 cylinder. So then pull number 1 plug and make sure it all corresponds. A lot of mucking around though. Also any chance the cas is off another car or the drive shaft is some how dodgy. Timing belt not 100% correctly lined up maybe just 1 tooth out. Cheers Dave
Interesting. So the crank pulley is in the right place, the camshaft is correctly timed, the ECU is ending out the right signal and the engine is running fine. It sounds like the CAS is not correctly aligned. Does the LH exhaust camshaft come with the splined CAS coupling pin aleady installed? It's pressed into the end of the camshaft. If it isn't aligned accurately you will get a constant offset in the ignition timing, even when the valve timing is correct. A 5 degree misalignment of the coupling pin would cause a 10 degree offset in the CAS timing signal. BTW I think turning the CAS anticlockwise advances the timing, which is what you are seeing.
That's my belief too. Either the cas is faulty or the tomei camshaft has the cas pin relocated. I am still waiting to get access to another timing light just to make it sure and then I will try another cas. If nothing of these is wrong then I'll have to inspect the Cam timing and the camshaft itself.
Ok. The induction loop on the timing light often has one side with a arrow or spark plug? Is that side facing down? Also? Are you holding the loop closed or are you allowing it to close by itself. We found that with the loop clamped itself my timing was perfect but when we squeeZed the clamp on the loop (as if to make a full close loop) the timing reading would jump as high as 28-35 on the 15 degree position
I think there's some dodgy timing lights being used out there in the world lol! A quality timing light isn't going to show a different reading depending on how well it's clamped. It's either getting the signal from the coil/lead and flashing, or it's not. Mine, I just open the inductive loop and touch it to the top of the coilpack. If I have it in the right spot, it flashes, if I don't, it doesn't.
I slightly disagree. By how a timing light works if applied pressure to a circuit don't you change it's ability to take a reading ? WIthout going all physics the way a builder said to me was "electromagnetic field alteration"
Not that I've ever experienced. Maybe it changes the luminosity of the flash, but I can't see how it's going to change the frequency. All it's doing is sensing the electric pulse to the coil and displaying this as a flashing light.
