Turbo Studs or Bolts

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Claymen, Nov 5, 2013.

  1. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Has anyone replaced all their turbo bolts with studs? As in turbo to dump pipe?

    I can't seem to find a decent reason why there is a mix of bolt and stud on the stock config. The only thing I can come up with is that the studs on the bottom and bolts on the top config would allow the studs to act like a hinge when installing/removing possibly?

    I test fit my SZ 3" divorced dumps and I can without too much hassle use either a bolt or a stud. A few spots were a bit tight, but then removing the dumps when the engine was in the car (stock ones) was a right pain in the ass anyway.

    Is there any other reason not to just convert to studs all around on the turbo to studs?
     
  2. Sanouske

    Sanouske Retired Moderator

    For the most of it, I notice studs being used when there are tight spots requiring fiddly workmanship. I've also seen studs are strategically positioned to aid in the install of Oem pipes and manifolds etc.

    Example, the exhaust mani on 3 different engines. All the same engine, but in 3 different cars. The studs were positioned to help locate and support the manifolds when installing the exhaust systems at the funky swing angles needed to get the job done.

    If you want to use all studs, and you can freely access the areas needed to spin a nut on. And can easily remove the dumps when in location. Then go for it. Much easier spinning nuts on in tight spots then full length bolts.
     
  3. warren300

    warren300 SLICKTOP TT

    I've used all studs, after the pain of dealing with those bolts there was no way they where going back on. I didn't even think about how they will come off.
     
  4. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    studs are good but because of temps even with the best thread locker they will always pull out !! bolts wont have that issue
     
  5. MaxxAction

    MaxxAction New Member


    M8x1.25x40mm is just about perfect.

    After wrestling with trying to hold gasket, bolt, and downpipe in place to get them back on, I went to studs this last time. Much easier.
     
  6. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Should use anti-seize not thread locker :)
     
  7. minivan

    minivan Guinea Pig Test Monkey

    odd, never had studs pull out, all exhaust manifolds are studs, assume theyd get pretty hot

    i always use anti seize, those nuts are hard enough to get off as it is without using thread lock.. plus thread lock would just cook on them


     
  8. minivan

    minivan Guinea Pig Test Monkey

    yeah, i use studs on mine, have done for years.. they're way easier to install/uninstall

     
  9. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    I've been using anti-seize on everything.

    Any specific one you like? I hear that copper might not be the best one for certain metal types, typically staino and titanium. But then hear lots of people saying no issues with it and have used it for 30+ years sorta thing.

    Nickel seems to be the goer for high temp and staino/titanium compatibility.
     
  10. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    And studs I did go.
     
  11. minivan

    minivan Guinea Pig Test Monkey

    i use the loctite silver on everything (in the UHU style stick) easy and clean to use

    rated to 850 degrees C

    http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?&parentredDotUID=productfinder&BU=industrial&countryCode=us&redDotUID=0000000IC3

     
  12. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    It isn't necessarily the temp that it goes to that's the problem ;) For example copper anti-seize I have for other bits is good for 982c. But it's use is dependent on the metals being used and the temp.

    For example kopr kote which is completely copper based is good for 982c BUT not if you use staino. Staino + Kopr Kote is only good for 288c due to a corrosion the copper can cause. Can be worse for Titanium.

    Nickel according to Loctite is good for 1315c :)

    Then there is of course blends and ally based ones as well. The one I have used for most stuff is a blended ally one with graphite and some copper. But will probably swap over to Nickel once this runs out.

    At the end of the day there are pro's and con's of all of it. And everyone seems to have a "friend of a friend had this problem" type story with them all. As long as I can undo the bolt at the end of the day i'll be happy.
     
  13. minivan

    minivan Guinea Pig Test Monkey

    no idea, ive never paid much attention to he said she said comments, ive used the silver loctite everytime over the last 5 years, pulled motors down on numerous occasions, never had a leak, loose bolt or seized bolt.. even used it on front crank timing belt sproket, pulled off easily after 5 years f use

     
  14. Claymen

    Claymen Active Member

    Honestly for the most part as long as you use something it'll make life a lot easier down the track. In a few circumstances copper may be an issue but for most of us I don't think it'd be much of an issue.

    So far the anti seize has been awesome for everything I have used it on. Used it on the gsxr and my old zx9r and and has made removing bolts later on a breeze.
     

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