Ms3+ms3x will get you running. But as above to learn it takes a while. I built this ecu and had all the fruit installed on it for a hobby project but sold it after a change in direction. The hype revolving ms is substantial. Biggest thing you've got to keep in mind is are you DIY tuning or having a tuner dyno run it. Use something your preferred tuner can make magic with if you're going that direction. Otherwise nistune, nistune, nistune. Can't beat an already known working platform. Plenty of users, plenty of help out there. Plus tosh Is pretty good with it too for an affordable tuner...
Umm i dont quite think your getting the picture here with regards to Adaptronic's "Plug And Play" (PnP) ecu. The "PnP" ECU is simply a universal 440 ECU with a few configuration features specifically set and locked for the Z32 and fitted with a Z32 socket which utillises all the stock wiring. it will also come with a startup tune enabling you to just crank it up and drive on!!!....... Why would you go to the hassle to strip all the original wiring, rewire with a custom loom and the go fit the exact same ECU with absolutely NO tune in its head to begin with...........? Any additional items like idle speed valves are optional anyway and they can be added at any time later to make your engine civilised when cold. To be honest, why youd remove them, even in a dedicated race car, is totally beyond me. There is probably 6 odd hours work alone in running a new loom in place along with additional plugs and hardware so Im prepared to bet your 400 dollar "tune" will actually run into at least a grand if you add installation. Even if you have removed the stock loom, it would be well worthwhile to reinstall one and just "plug in and play". Going to the PnP setup, your "installation" will take about 15 minutes and rather than blowing wads of loot on installation, you can unload it on more useful stuff that will make a difference further down the track. E
My AFR is only street AFR12 , street and race track AFR11-11.5 , race or drift AFR around 11. Richer fuel is for cylinder cool down. eg; AFR12 is cylinder temp around 950 degrees and AFR11 is around 850 degrees. If over 980-990 degrees start piston melt.(I think forged piston around 1200 degrees start piston melt) So AFR11 is over 100 degrees safe margin. New car (like a R35 GTR) is dieffrent story. New car is AFR 12 not problem in race track. Because piston , cylinder ,etc all parts much stronger. This is my tune drift car. Blue car is my tuned car and AFR11 .His old engine was 2 years not problem.(old engine was water leaked when drifting then blow up) Also new engine AFR11 and he is 4th place now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi2f6KwyLOE
nothing wrong with microtech's, unless your tuner is a complete retard and doent comprehend the simple english language. mine runs near perfect with 920cc's and td05-18g's. depending how much you are spending then looking towards haltech would be the go as you have can bus setups and can run some other cool parts like stack dash's and so on and so forth.
Errrmm..... not a lot RIGHT with them either!!!! They are a bit like using Weber carbs on a race car... once upon a time they were modern. E
My TT has been running an Microtech LTX12S for about 10 years(absolutely trouble free and never skips a beat). Der Finger-pokin' ist verbotten!!:rofl::br:
Reason I want a new loom is because my loom wiring is really old and stiff like most z32's are after 20 years, and all the plugs are broken and corroded - I've already had numerous problems just from that! It's in a z31, so the interior plug off of the ecu loom is only using ignition power, fuel pump and water temp sender, and the whole loom is being powered via a standalone relay box in the engine bay. So I've almost already done everything to do with powering the new ecu. I will be wiring it up mostly myself, but my tuner (a friend) will be helping me. Already spoken to him and he likes to cap his prices when quoting, and his cap for me will be $400 (mates rates ) regardless of how long it takes. I have no idle control because the manifold is a really simple box style manifold similar to I think username '260DET' has on his 280zx (it's actually his old manifold lol). Though I think he went to the effort of using some other idle control. You'd be surprised how well it runs without the idle stuff, for the first maybe 2 mins max I have to 'heel/toe', but after that it's perfect. I drive it to work/uni every day and It's never given me problems. I have been tuning it using romulator/wideband but am sick of it and just want to do things right once and not have to worry about it again, instead of replacing shitty broken clips and corroded connectors What I'm trying to say is, the extra $600 for a PnP Select isn't worth it for me, and like you said for the extra 600 I could get someone to wire it all up for me anyway if I was feeling lazy. I think a fresh loom will save me the most in the long run, at the rate I'm going I'll probably end up burning the damn thing at the next drift day when I hit a ripple strip and some plug comes loose! I emailed Adaptronic and they can setup the ecu to suit a vg before they send it out - They said it might no run on it without some more tampering, but the ecu will interpret the CAS, tps and water temp sender properly among other things (whatever that means ) Yeah Sanouske I haven't ordered ecu yet so ms is still on the cards, but just not 100% set on them as they seem to be constantly updating software with bug fixes and stuff so makes me wonder if they're really a tune it once kinda deal. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_nissan_300zx_vg30dett.htm ^ That seems interesting though, looks easy enough as I think they have a database of lots of factory sensors now.
Its amazing what shortcomings one can come to terms with after such a long time!!!! Hawhaw!!!!!!!!! ;-P Nothing more fun that driving a prestige performance sportscar and having to keep a cold engine alive with the throttle at the lights.. What a complete pain in the arse. A lot of younger guys seem happy to have to do that. What a crock. As for loose connectors, replace them. Simple and cheap. I have used MT's for many years on several engines and, yes, they DO do a job. And that is about all they do. They run the car and little else worthwhile. Be fine for a race car and little else. Carbys do the same, are more reliable in the long term, get just as good fuel economy and look way cooler anyway!! No decent useable Aux. features (unless you pay $ and then limited), painfully coarse tuning resolution and clunky tuning scheme (good for beginners and shithouse commercial "tuners"). Try some really big injectors and get it to idle under most conditions....they dont even have any voltage correction on injectors (dead time correction) FFS! THIS alone can result in a grenaded engine.!! Just to solve this I had to wire in a Buck/Boost switchmode power supply to the injectors so my engine would actually idle (440cc injectors) when the lights, fans were switched on, without any black smoke when the lights were off..... Yer, real cool gear...not! Lack of any closed loop operation, total lack of portability between different engines (unless you pay BIG $) and so it goes and on blah when for the same money you can have something that will sing God Save The Queen is 3 speeds!!! And I mean this LITERALLY an any engine you care to fit it to. Not taking direct aim at MT (or any other beginner ECU's) or their users/supporters as once upon a time, they were one of the few adjustable ECU's that were affordable, but to even consider replacing a perfectly working and stock and configurable ECU with something as agricultural (for the money) as an MT is bordering on foolish! Its just not "once upon a time" anymore!!!! Some exceptional quality gear can be had for very little money is what I mean. You guys can keep your foot on the throttle when cold, blipping away like some childish hooligan at the lights, untill warm enough to support a decent idle, while i turn my key at sub-zero temps (happens a lot in Tassie) and be greeted with a better than stock smooth and consistent idle and driveability along with as good as stock fuel consumption. No stalling, rpm drops and b loody AFR instability from battery voltage changes. Dont hand the thread readers any bollocks about good fuel economy with these beginners ecu's. Doesnt happen and you know it. Only way you can make these silly things work at all cold is to fuel them up!!! Lucky the VG warms up exceptionally quickly eh? E
Like I said, it only takes 2 mins max, which I guess you know already by that last statement? Also its not only the connectors, the entire loom is cracking up and individual wires have already started breaking on me. Idk how you z32 dudes can hit the track without melting stuff I guess my reasoning is the same reason so many people pay $400+ for brand new OEM wiring looms, when they can just replace the plugs..?
I respect your depth of experience Tas, but I have had no such issues with my LTX12S fitment(including cold idle). My car does not run O2's or AFM and was a newly built engine with forged pistons and rods(and Hi-flowed stock Turbo's)all of which have remained untouched since the original rebuild all those years ago. I have no fuel consumption issues either. The quality of the fitment and tuning is the prime ingredient in any build/tune IMHO and in this case, it works fine(I can't speak to these matters as for other peoples cars, but in my case, there are no issues to address).:zlove:
Oh they work. I mentioned this before. In some cases they work quite well... to a point. Its just that they are so agricultural in their tuning scheme and with a total lack of any decent features/accessories whatsoever unless you PAY. Microtech has no provisions for 02 sensors apart from a dodgey NB reading on the handpiece. They do essentially nothing and the NB display is useless as a tuning tool and cannot be believed at anything apart from 14.7 (Lambda 1.0) Having some thing basic, setup well to begin with, obviously which yours was, goes a long way towards masking the inherent shortcomings of those old low end computers when asked to do a high end job and what really bring those shortcomings into glaring light is to compare against something modern and very capable! I know this is impractical but then the differences are rather glaring. In saying that, my old FJ20et with an MT-8 ran really well.... I have to say! And after all these years, I still have that ECU!!!!! E
tas superkatt : as i mentioned earlier. i dont have these "issues" cold start is fine and i run 920cc injectors!. if the person who is tuning it actually know what they are doing and not an armchair expert who has been infected with dunning kruger syndrome then you wont have these issues. yes there is other stuff out there and not everyone needs a "race car". half of these functions people bang on about dont even get used. at the end of the day people will just use what they want.
The Id say you are one very lucky little camper Kimosabe. Firstly, Sadly, i have no idea what Dunning-Kruger syndrome is, along with the vast majority of the rest of the readers but im guessing its a technical way of saying a dickhead??. Now, its prolly fair to say living in Cairns, you live in an environment that rarely, if EVER inflicts you with an actual cold start, so id say your not overly qualified to know much about real cold running us far south dwellers live with. Where I live, and along with the vast majority of the Zed community, (below the NSW border latitude), YOUR winter ambient cold temps take quite some running time to even arrive at. Coolant and air temps well below Zero most nights. I can assure you that for at worst, OEM behaviour when cold, is what I expect from an aftermarket ECU at a minimum, and that would be something very foreign to most Microleb users. On just cold crank/start/warmup alone, where i achieve at worst OEM behaviour, and at best, better than stock, I could easily relive someone of in excess of a thousand dollars in labour charges alone. I can show you a vid of one of my tuned large custom cam/porting/valves/manifold comnbination) up engines running from dead cold, reliably, with a Microleb with large injectors. Ive NEVER said it cannot be done. Its just not easy. THAT was the result of months of cold start trimming and altho reliable enough, was running on very low AFR's and very high fuel consumption until such time as high running temps were achieved and thats quite a length of time down here where it actually gets cold!!! Inlet air temps regularly sink to 6 Deg below zero. Using a capable ECU, I always enjoy the results of my time and effort to see slightly elevated idle speeds for faster warmup with my dead cold AFR's hover around 13 to 13.5 as i slip and slide up the frozen road at night!!!!! The real reason people dont use said banged on about special functions is the most installers are not familiar enough with them to even attempt invoking them. Let alone the vast majority of users who pay installers to fit these ECU's. A hell of an amount of these experts cant even config and set up a simple single wire idle solenoid (like the Zed). I said it before, (Skimming the posts is not wise. Some very salient points are often missed.) Old Microleb does not even have the most basic of functions as a voltage dependant injector latency correction table. If you car ran anywhere even close to good AFR's, with injectors as big as yours, just switching on the lights and heater fans are enough to stop the engine and create large hesitations at slow speeds. Ask me how i know (with injectors half your size)! Unless your tuner introduced enough fuel to overcome this issue.!!!!! Bandaid/fuel economy NOT anybody!!!!!! ANYBODY can tune enough to keep most people unwise!!!! Microleb users actually have to PAY extra money for just the idle control priveledge and its these glaring shortcomings about these beginners ECU's I like to bang on about. Im glad your happy with your clobber m8 but a lot of us grew out of such toys a long time ago!!!!!! Happy cold starts!!! E
