On the project Z, I have a failing cylinder #3. Switched coils and plugs around but no luck (and before you ask, there is not one single bit of corrosion on the connectors. So I decided to replace the injector, thanks to Noel (Wildzx) who was able to provide me with 3 injectors in a rail. I pulled one of those injectors to replace my dead one, I used the two O-Rings off the other fuel rail which didn't appear to be pinched nor did they come off the injector when I removed it. I then seated the injector on my current rail which was a bit of effort (yes, I lubricated her up good) however it appears to be on a slight slight little angle) - well I thought it were just my eyes. I put the plenum back on and I haven't started her as yet or primed the fuel rails however I read a thread that said if its sitting on a minor angle it could be the O-Ring isn't in place correctly. I'm not too sure to be honest as I tried the old bush trick by blowing into the fuel line after the filter but no air came out around the injector. Don't have an air compressor to test Has anyone else had this hassle? I'm not too sure if I should try cranking as it may flood a cylinder and hydro lock the engine
Thanks for your quick response! I knew it was going to come down to that. Just curious if anyone happens to know any local suppliers for these? I wish I could re-use, but everywhere I look everyone is like that is a massive no no! Plus I wouldn't want to create the perfect conditions for a fire!
Yep - angle is bad - it must seat perfect " I then seated the injector on my current rail which was a bit of effort (yes, I lubricated her up good) however it appears to be on a slight slight little angle) - well I thought it were just my eyes." Yeh mate - its not in right it will leak eventually even if it doesnt on an initial pressure test. It must sit in the rail and be equal distance all the way around the injector (to the rail). It can trick you into thinking its your eyes sometimes given they are small measurements. Best to use a vernier caliper when your eyes are playing games. If it goes in the wrong way, its possible that you have a slight angle when pushing it in - this can happen if your using pliers or a shifting spanner as they often have a taper (thicker and thinner point when used as a flat spacer). You can offset that with another pair facing opposite if your having that trouble. If its goes in the wrong way, note the postion of the angle its at and quickly and gently push it back out (its easy if you used plenty of oil) and then inspect the o - rings for severe damage. In most cases you can reuse the same rings if you dont let it sit for a long time, then push it back in and make sure you offset the angle more (from the position you noticed it went towards in the first attempt) to ensure it goes back in properly (or get a better tool if you think you will have difficulty again) I have had to reseat injectors about 8 times now, but only once did I have to replace the rings on one as they were too crimped and damaged after going in on an angle. I always make sure I have a spare o-ring set for this reason. You dont need anything fancy for this job to do it right - just use standard parts, tools and motor oil. I find its best to do this job 100% right in the first place as its important to be confident in knowing they are seated correctly or it can turn into a nightmare later. Some reccommend pressure testing the fuel rail afterwards to check, but I have never had to do this as I am always 100% confident both the injectors and rail have been seated correctly before moving on. I confirm this with vernier calipers /a tension wrench/ and loctite on the rail bolts after inspecting the insulators are fine first. (you dont need loctite but it gives confidence knowing the bolts wont rattle loose) - I know the eyes can start playing games so a vernier caliper really helps more than a ruler :rofl Sorry about the long rant, but I needed to be clear and you have to be confident that you got this part right! Regards Jamie
Thanks Jamie, I got the injector installed with the new o'ring this morning by Dinh, great guy with plenty of expertise. I went to Nissan Dandenong, got my new plenum gasket and on the way home I noticed a crack on the plastic pintle cover on an injector on the opposite rail. fml
I'm going to punch on with this car, still firing on 5 since the bad injector was swapped out. Swapped coils and plugs but nothing. Compression is fine on cylinder. $!&? - injector is ticking as per normal, and all injectors are in the 12.x ohm resistane range. My next consideration would be is the coil pack actually getting spark. What is the best way to test this?
Alright so with a bit of playing around I've worked out that the cylinder isn't getting any fuel at all, even with the new injector. This issue started around two months ago, when I turned the timing down (it was about 10 degrees advanced). Maybe a faulty CAS? PTU and Injector wiring is all fine (undid and checked soldiers) Listening closely I can hear the new injector (just like the old one) lightly tick with a screw driver in comparison to my other injecors which are way louder and as per my previous post it's operating with around 12.4 ohms.
Check +12 wire to injectors The White/Black trace wire to each injector should be +12volts with ignition on. Check this voltage with a mulimeter. If the injector wire to the faulty cylinder reads 12volts then check continuity of the other wire of the faulty cylinder's injector connector to the ECU. It sounds as though the injector is not getting the full 12volt signal from the ECU. The ECU ground one side of the injector wire while the other injector wire is fed with +12volts through the ignition switch and a fuse. Visual inspection is not enough. Hope this helps.
When I beat my car up - it survived me! Hey Dude I had the exact same problem! :rofl: except cylinder 3. I checked compression, the fuel pressure, injector leads, changed the coil packs yadayadayadayayada etc etc .....and then I changed the injector - and still not firing! So I punched it on with my car! So - I had good injector, good fuel, new spark plug and good wiring? In the end, I worked it out that one of the valves wasnt seating due to carbon buildup from the injector problem, this was causing it to missfire and making it sound really rough. In the end I ran some seafoam (suburu upper engine cleaner) through it (I didnt want to strip the heads just yet as they were fine prior to the injector f...up), changed the oil then ran it through some uphill work and pushed the carbon through until it seated right. Now it fires fine and I havent hadf a problem since! What a f... around that was! Not saying for sure this is your problem but be aware of this as a distinct possibility as logic defies this at first from a mechanical diagnostic procedural basis (i.e. thats not in the manual -lol) - it seems that when you get an injector problem the carbon can harden from no fuel or if you have too much fuel it can cake carbon and prevent the valve from closing properly - not sure which one it was, just trying to determine what was happening from knowing the injector f...up. In addition I had a similiar problem previously on Cylinder 5 except that it was all prevented by doing a boost leak test early and finding that one of the air lines come off and it was leaking - there are lots of air lines next to cylinder five and so you should boost leak first to discount this - or else it will never fire properly until you fix the leak! Using the above and using logic diagnostic testing and fault finding, I am confident that you will be able to work it out - its a f....around I know but persevere and you will get there! Now go and beat that car! Goodluck with it mate :zlove:
Haha this made me laugh ^^ I've heard good things about Seafoam, like most things that come from Subaru! I'm still suspect that it is a wiring issue, maybe I've upset my harness or the CAS plug when I disconnect the CAS each night to keep my car from getting stolen! I even tried another ECU yesterday just to make sure that it wasn't something that burnt out. I read a forum post that someone replaced their cylinder 6 spark plug and it bought the cylinder next to it back to life. -.- I put in an order with Coz last night for new spark plugs, CAS plug, TPS plug, O2 Sensors and Coil Pack connectors. Hopefully this does some good for me and brings me back to 6.
Haha - I laugh a bit now myself, but it wasnt very funny to me at the time. Disconnect the cas to prevent stealing - your dedicated and keen as mustard mate to keep it! That will do it - throw every part at it - until success (The only one laughing here now is coz.) Seriously hope it all works out for you mate as I know how this can make you pull your hair out - goodluck jamersss
I've got a full set of TT's here already on the rails. Fully serviced, ready to bolt on. Lemme know if you're interested... AAA :zlove:
Thanks Arvin, however Dinh was able to help me solve the injectors. While I wait for my order from Coz, I received my replacement ECU Talk cable today. Upon connecting I checked error codes and I was surprised to find a code 11. Cleared the code but it came up again next start. The CAS was replaced back in Jan 2012, however since moving the CAS two months ago to alter the timing this misfire has started. Maybe this one has turned bad too? Damn Mitsubishi !!
