Heuneveryone, my hrake lights are staying on lermantely even with the key out of the ignition and no nrake applied. I'm sure this has somehing to do with my cruise control note working, but the lights have only started staying on tonight. Anything to chekc? Cheers. Happy new usar
Had this problem on a toyota. Stopper on the brake pedal There is a switch under the dash/in footwell. It is always ON, but the arm of the brake pedal is sprung back against it, which depresses the switch and put it OFF. The switch has lost its head or it is missing its home position on the brake pedal arm. You can melt your tail light lenses, unless you have LED bulbs.
There are two rubber stoppers on the brake pedal. One for the brake switch and the other for the cruise cancel switch. Over time these perish and fall out. You may find bits of hard rubber in the drivers foot well. You can get them from Nissan. Last time I got mine, Nissan had them in stock. Can't remember the price? Maybe $10 ea? As a temporary fix you can put a bolt and nut through hole. I don't recommend this as a permanent fix as it will wear out the plastic plunger on the switch. IIRC the left hand side is the brake
When this happened to me I tried pulling the brake light fuse, battery still went flat, a relay must be still activated, would suggest disconnecting battery till its sorted.
Nissan part number: 46512-H0101 About $15 from Nissan Australia for 2 from memory. (about 1/3 from CZP) Others have done a variety of fixes, as mentioned over here: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305003&highlight=tail
Hey guys, I used a small nut and bolt on each side. Unfortunately, this hasn't fixed my cruise issue?
ASCD pedal switch testing I have had cruise control problem in my newly acquired Zed. The FSM has schematic circuit for testing. To check if one of the two cancelling switches are open circuit (which will prevent cruise from working) remove the passenger floor cover under carpet to gain access to the Cruise control unit. Also remove the instrument cluster and pods to gain access to the pedal switches. Remove the driver?s side air duct that connects to the door vent when the door closes. Now unplug the ASCD harness plug from the unit. Place a multimeter set to the lowest resistance setting. Now we need to make a connection to the harness plug wires being careful not to damage the pin connectors on the plug. I straightened some small paper clips small enough to fit the holes in the plug. If you check the circuit between pins 4 & 5 on the plug of the ASCD unit and both switches are OK then you should read close to zero Ohms on the meter. If this is so then is you press either the brake or clutch pedals the resistance should show an open circuit. Mine was open circuit. Next to find the faulty switch or switches remove the two switch harness from both switches. They are the blue connectors. Each has 2 connections. Again I used paper clips to to short both connectors. This will certainly produce zero ohms on the meter. If you do net get zero and you have checked to make sure the connections you made are good then you have harness wiring cut. (not likely.) Now that you are seeing Zero ohms remove one of the paper clips shorting the pedal switch plug and replace that connector back in the switch. If nothing changes on the meter (still zero ohms) then that switch is OK. If the meter changes and shows an open circuit then that switch is faulty or needs adjustment or the rubber stopper is missing. (mine was missing). If the first switch tests OK then remove the short from the other switch plug and plug it back in the pedal switch. If it goes open circuit then the second switch is faulty or the rubber stopper is missing or switch needs adjustment. The ASCD connector shown below is the harness side view.
Cruise Control often uses 2 brake pedal switches as a backup/safety measure. One switch is the Brake Light switch which is Normally Open. And the other a Normally Closed Switch. Both need to be working properly such that if either the NO switch closes or the NC switch opens automation is cancelled.
Cheers Eric, I did both the clutch and the brake pedal when I was in Sydney and it did fix my cruise issue. I can't remember why I said it didn't, but after some fiddling it did work It made the trip home much better, lol.
I think it is the other way around. I believe the Brake switch is normally open and the ASCD cutout switch is Normally closed. The brake lights come on when the pedal moves away from the switch plunger. When the rubber is removed it is as if the pedal is pressed so the switch closes the circuit and the brake lights stay on. With the ASCD swich the circuit must be closed for the cruise to work. Pressing the brake or rubber stopper destroyed opens the circut stopping the CC from operating hence CC may not work at all if switch is not pushed in. MichaelZ.
I think I need to clarify the above. What I meant to post was when the brake pedal switch is removed it will be closed or the brake lights will be on. When the switch is installed on the pedal bracket and all is as it should be and the pedal is not being pushed by the driver the pedal pushes on the brake switch which opens the contacts and the brakes lights will be off. When the green button deteriorates then the switch is no longer pushed in by the pedal so the brakes lights come on all the time as if the pedal is being pressed. The other blue switch (ASCD cancel) works the opposite. When the brake pedal is at rest the switch is pushed in and the circuit is closed. Cruise control will work. Press the pedal or the green button is not present the circuit is opened so cruise control stops working until the switch plunger is pushed in by replacing the green button in the pedal bracket. This is exactly what A2ZED wrote and what I wanted to explain. Apologies A2ZED. You were correct.
